Medite Tricoya MDF for built-ins and a few other questions?

[bobfog]

I'm looking at building some built ins and by all accounts this tricoya is very good for routing edges/profiles without the furring the you get from regular MDF. It's very expensive though at around £120/sheet which is about three and a half times more expensive than a normal high quality MDF. So it would really need to live up to expectations to be worth it!

Anyone used it and have any feedback?

Secondly, the person I'm building this for wants it as a TV cabinet to cover a 4ft x 4ft window (built in will be bigger than just the 4x4 window.) because the window is on the non-sunny side of the house and looks onto an ugly outside utility area. So isn't concerned about losing light as the second window in the room that faces south , plus the feel of the room is going to be a snug/den with log burner so any light lost will just add to the atmosphere. But there's something in the back of my mind nagging that it just doesn't feel right to put a semi-permanent piece of furniture in front of it. Any thoughts?

Thanks
Bob.

 

[McNally Family]

I'm looking at building some built ins and by all accounts this tricoya is very good for routing edges/profiles without the furring the you get from regular MDF. It's very expensive though at around £120/sheet which is about three and a half times more expensive than a normal high quality MDF. So it would really need to live up to expectations to be worth it!

Anyone used it and have any feedback?

Thanks
Bob.

Just what research is available:

"The Proprietary technology behind MEDITE TRICOYA EXTREME is based on wood acetylation, a process that has been studied by scientists around the world for more than 80 years. This method of improving wood has been proven to deliver such superior performance that it has long been used as the "gold standard" against which other methods are measured. MEDITE TRICOYA EXTREME combines this science with years of proprietary research and investment by Accsys Technologies.

The physical properties of any material are determined by its chemical structure. Wood contains an abundance of chemical groups called "free hydroxyls" (represented as OH in the chemical formula opposite). Free hydroxyl groups absorb and release water according to changes in the climatic conditions (moisture content) to which the wood is exposed. This is the main reason why wood swells and shrinks. It is also believed that the digestion of wood by enzymes initiates at the free hydroxyl sites - which is one of the principal reasons that wood is prone to decay.

Acetylation effectively changes the free hydroxyls within the wood into acetyl groups. This is done by reacting the wood with acetic anhydride, which comes from acetic acid (known as vinegar when in its dilute form).

When the free hydroxyl group is transformed to an acetyl group, the ability of the wood to absorb water is greatly reduced, rendering the wood more dimensionally stable and, because it is no longer digestible, extremely durable".

 

[bobfog]

Thanks. I read that and what it says makes sense, but for an indoor application ins't that relevant. I found a video where it was claimed it was great for routing, but the video never actually demonstrated that, so not sure if in practice it is actually all that much superior.

Hopefully with all the members on here someone will have used it and can comment first hand.

 

[Dane]

On the subject of the window covering...it's never a great idea to place something like that up against a cold surface like a window and the adjacent walls.  What happens is that warm moist air from the room will collect behind the furniture and condense on the window and since it is trapped back there and can't evaporate back into the room- it just grows mold/mildew.  I've pulled a lot of bookcases away from uninsulated walls to find black mildew has grown.  Maybe something to think about.  If they want to go forward, you might think about sealing up the window with some rigid insulation board and caulking the seams so that no airflow can get to the window.

 

[tiralie]

But there's something in the back of my mind nagging that it just doesn't feel right to put a semi-permanent piece of furniture in front of it. Any thoughts?

What do you define as "semi-permanent"?
If it's a true built in and attached to the wall, I would remove the window, block, stud and insulate with a vapor barrier etc. If it's a piece of furniture leave enough space behind it for air to circulate.
Tim

 

[joiner1970]

Tricoya is for external use. A bit over kill for anything else. If it's going inside just use Medite premium Moisture resistant boards. They rout very well on the edges

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[jonny round boy]

Tricoya is for external use. A bit over kill for anything else. If it's going inside just use Medite premium Moisture resistant boards. They rout very well on the edges

Agreed. Just use a decent quality moisture-resistant MDF; it routs far better than standard MDF, you don't get furring when you paint the edges, and it's not stupidly-priced.

 

[Stone Message]

I agree with [member=1584]joiner1970[/member] and [member=1725]jonny round boy[/member]...

I use Medite MR MDF a lot as it really does machine well. It is also the material of choice for just about every professional I know.

Peter

 

[bobfog]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I agree about just using a quality MDF like Medite Premier, which I've mentioned in other threads and used many times before, though it's vastly better than cheap MDF, I wouldn't describe it as being fur-free. This Tricoya does seem like an excessive material for indoor use, but the video I saw alluded to it being practically as good as solid timber for routing, which peaks my dumb curiosity if nothing else.

So hopefully someone who's used it will chime in at some point.

 

[Stone Message]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I agree about just using a quality MDF like Medite Premier, which I've mentioned in other threads and used many times before, though it's vastly better than cheap MDF, I wouldn't describe it as being fur-free. This Tricoya does seem like an excessive material for indoor use, but the video I saw alluded to it being practically as good as solid timber for routing, which peaks my dumb curiosity if nothing else.

So hopefully someone who's used it will chime in at some point.

I have established contact with Medite and suggested that I look at some of their products and include them in a video later in the year. Without wishing to hijack this thread I would be grateful for a consensus of opinion of their top 4 products to appear in a video.

Peter

 

[bobfog]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I agree about just using a quality MDF like Medite Premier, which I've mentioned in other threads and used many times before, though it's vastly better than cheap MDF, I wouldn't describe it as being fur-free. This Tricoya does seem like an excessive material for indoor use, but the video I saw alluded to it being practically as good as solid timber for routing, which peaks my dumb curiosity if nothing else.

So hopefully someone who's used it will chime in at some point.

I have established contact with Medite and suggested that I look at some of their products and include them in a video later in the year. Without wishing to hijack this thread I would be grateful for a consensus of opinion of their top 4 products to appear in a video.

Peter

Get your own thread [wink]

For me I think 4products and topics that would be of interest are:

1) Their regular "cheap" Medite Trade MDF quality, compared to your B&Q type MDF. Is the cheapest offering from Medite still better than what's available at the big stores?

2) Their Medite Premier, how does it compare to their Medite Trade for machining and other advantages over an entry level MDF.

3) Tricoya, just how outdoor worthy is it? Can it truly be a replacement or alternative for outdoor joinery?

4) Medite Ultralite, what are the trade offs for having a lighter product, where is it suitable and where isn't it?

 

[Stone Message]

Many thanks Bob.

I am sorry to intrude on this thread  [embarassed] but it just seems so topical  [smile]. Your list looks pretty much what I had in mind but I would love to see other suggestions.

If people would prefer to PM me then that is no problem.

I plan to try and set something up for July or August.

Cheers.

Peter

 

[Sheik Maboutie]

I have been using DeepRoute MDF for several years, a great product with a superb face and edge finish, better than MR MDF, the only problem it's heavier than MR, I have used it with sprayed AC and pre-cat lacquer, it is also great for powder coating.
It was only available in 18mm from I think Caberwood or Kronospan, it is now available from Medite, they call it Medite Plus (Deep route grade) in 15 to 25mm.

 

[bobfog]

Many thanks Bob.

I am sorry to intrude on this thread  [embarassed] but it just seems so topical  [smile]. Your list looks pretty much what I had in mind but I would love to see other suggestions.

If people would prefer to PM me then that is no problem.

I plan to try and set something up for July or August.

Cheers.

Peter

No problem, Peter. I think I've got he answers I need from this thread, so I'm happy for it to evolve into a wider discussion about MDF products, etc.

FWIW, I mentioned in another thread that I didn't have any interest in your plastic surgery/injury research, but in the interest of giving praise as well as criticism, I think a video on MDF is particularly interesting.

MDF is for some, almost a dirty word. Though for me, I think it's an underrated material that if used for appropriate applications, is unbeatable in performance and value, so I look forward to seeing your video sometime in the future.

 

[GarryMartin]

...that if used for appropriate applications, is unbearable in performance and value..."

That made me laugh. That just went to the top of my favourite Freudian slips list.  [big grin]

 

[bobfog]

...that if used for appropriate applications, is unbearable in performance and value..."

That made me laugh. That just went to the top of my favourite Freudian slips list.  [big grin]

Haha, the combination of a hard week, a few glasses of wine and autocorrect.  [tongue]

Mistake corrected now!

 

[mo siopa]

I haven't used it but I believe you will find the Tricoya will cut cleaner than Medite MR board.  I know someone who is familiar with it and he compares it to Valchromat- which I am familiar with.  Practically zero nibs (fuzziness) with either of these products.  You can hand-carve with Valchromat (I've done it just to find out).  However, the price is an issue.  If you were doing some more intricate routing or needed the higher strength, I'd say it is worth it.  If not, the added expense probably would likely outweigh the benefits.

Do they sell Medite 3D on that side of the pond?  That should out perform the MR board for cutting and painting and is probably only slightly higher cost.

 

[jmbfestool]

Seems massivly over kill using tricoya for indoor furniture.

Few years ago I went to a tool show and they had made water fountains totally out of tricoya MDF.  It was all permantly under water or had running water running down the tricoya mdf slopes.  No swelling at all i was amazed.  Then lost interest soon as I found out how much it would cost. 

I find high quality mr mdf does a good enough job and is alot cheaper.  I dont know if you planned on exposing alot of edges and/or cnc the face of MDF then maybe it might be an option?

 

[Jimmy FineCut]

Like others have said just go for MR MDF.

You could always pick up a few small samples from your supplier, do your cutting/profiles on them and then compare.

 

[Kealevans]

Does anyone have any recommendations for dealers selling mediate mdf ? Preferably up to 38mm in thickness with nationwide delivery?