Melting plug end - Posted on another forum ( it's my home )

[canadianwoodworks]

Hi,

So ya I posted this topic about my melting plug ends on my forum I usually reside at, it was suggested to post it on here, so here is the link to it, I hope it's okay to post it on here?

My FESTOOL post on canadian woodworking forum regarding my festool power cord

Hi just wondering if anyone else has had this issue, as it seems to be a continuing problem.

I have a CT-26E dust extractor, I use it with a single hose and power cord from my OF1400 router, I use this cord only it is actually taped to the vac hose that runs to the toll i'm using. The cord does not have the extra notch and is a larger gauge cord compared to cords that come with the ro150 / 125

Today is a day of sanding back braces which involves a few errrr.....I mean many hours of sanding between the RO150 and RO125, I noticed a burning smell so a small twist and I remove the plug that goes into the tool, where the pin enters the cord is melted!

Now this is actually the 2nd time this has happened, before was 2 cords and my RO150 which was sent in for warranty and had parts replaced as well as the 2 cords. So no problems there I was happy.

The cords that were sent back had different white plastic ends which seemed to be a harder plastic but I have not used them as they have the extra nub so a no go with my festool router.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your issues with the cords. I can't see the images in your post on the other forum without registering, bummer.

If you are melting cords, it's most likely because the Plug-It cord is not making full contact. You need to make sure you are fully engaging the cord.

I would recommend that you call the service department for assistance if you feel that it's something more than that. The number for the service department is below in my signature.

As for the cord with the white plastic, we have a new cord manufacturer. Nothing different about the cord otherwise. The "nub" is a key to prevent you from using it with tools that draw higher amperage. There are two versions of the Plug-It which have different gauges of wire for different amperage ratings.

PS - You're more than welcome to include links to other websites.

Shane Holland
Festool USA

 

[Wood_Junkie]

This sounds suspiciously like internal shorting, due to the plug not being fully engaged and seated.  Are you turning the Plug-It so it kind of "clicks" and fully locks on?

Shane posted very recently that the white plug ends are just due to a change of manufacturer/supplier or something, of that plastic nub.  Otherwise they're just the same.

 

[Frank Pellow]

Welcome to the Festool Owner's Group Forum.

(as I posted in your thread on the Canadian Woodworking Forum)   I too, have had problems with the removeable cords on some of my Festool tools (and I understand that not truning the connector properly after connecting it can cause damage).  

Five of the Festool tools that I own have so called "plug-it" cords and it is very difficult to turn the connection 90 degrees after insertion on two of them, somewhat difficult on one of them, and quite easy on two of them.

I decided long ago to ignore the "plug-it feature" and to keep the cords permanently connected to the tools.

 

[flair woodworks]

I don't have any suggestions, but here are the four pictures Paul posted on the other forum.

 

[Kevin D.]

I thought that Rick Christophersons explanation on August 12th 2009 in this FOG thread was the best answer so far.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/why-i-hate-the-'plug-it'-cord!/

 

[flair woodworks]

I thought that Rick Christophersons explanation on August 12th 2009 in this FOG thread was the best answer so far.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/why-i-hate-the-'plug-it'-cord!/

I fixed your link.  This is the post, I believe.

You are burning up your cords because you have a poor connection between the tool's inlet and the plug-it connector on the cord. This results in a high resistance connection and possibly even small arcing at the connector, which in turn causes very high heat. Unfortunately, once this occurs even once, it creates a cascading degradation of the connections (that's true for any electrical plug, not just Plug-it).

The leading cause for this occurrence is not fully tightening the twist-lock on the Plug-it cords. This is the reason why I specifically point this out with a full graphic image in all of my Owner's Manuals. I know that this was mentioned previously, but it is an important enough topic that I want to make sure that everyone reading this thread fully understands it. Some Plug-it cord to tool interfaces are snug enough that when the owner turns the twist-lock, they think that they have fully tightened it, but instead, it is just beginning to hit the detent snap position. The most reliable way to ensure the twist-lock is fully engaged is to note that the twist-lock must rotate a full 90-degrees (1/4-turn).

If I recall, you have already stated that you were positive that the twist-lock was fully engaged. So given the assumption the twist-lock is fully engaged yet you are experiencing overheating problems, then it is quite clear that the electrical pins in the inlet of your sander have been damaged from previous occurrences of high heat. What happens is that once the plastic gets hot and soft, the pins no longer fit their shell as tightly as they should, and frequently, this means they will get pushed back inside of the body of the inlet. In essence, the pins are too short (from getting pushed back) to make full contact with the brass sockets in the plug-it's body.

So the bottom line is that even though you were noticing the damage on your plug-it cord(s), and drawing the conclusion that the multiple plug-it cords were the problem, the actual root cause was the inlet on the tool. Regardless what the cause of the original overheating condition, you now appear to have a damaged inlet on the tool.

 

[canadianwoodworks]

This is a copy of my e-mail in response to an e-mail I received from FESTOOL, I did not actually contact them just posted on here.....

I think your 100% correct....

That when this first happened I was using 3 different cords router of1400 no nub and my 2 sanding cords with nubs, before I noticed the issue the first time the bad connection in my ro150 had taken out the 2 cords I was using with it, at that time I never used the router cord with the sanders. When I delt with my festool dealer, I told them I could not make it in for a few weeks as the festool dealer closest to me is about an hour and getting out of my shop is almost impossible expect for clients of course. So we agreeded together I would use my router cord in all my tools until I could come in.

So right there is it, I was damaging the router cord (heavier gauge) I did not know it, it was not visual and no bad smell at the time.

Then I sent in the RO150 + 2 cords, the pins were replaced and also my 2 cords. When picked them up I purchased a ct-26e and what I did was shelf the 2 newer cords because of the nub, and decided to tape the router cord along with the vac hose for convience, also thinking this will be good because I will be using a heavier gauge with the ro150 which does draw some power!  At this point I was not aware of the previous damage to the router cord.

Now after about 2 months, this issue has come back and I now see why the previous damage to the router cord this time created resistance when plugged into the replace RO150 pins, thus creating the exact same issue over time.

I do want to say I don't fell like I ever didn't turn the connector correctly, but I do remember that the plug on the RO150 had play in and out even when fully turned and before the melting compared to the ETS125 I also had (but never use). The RO150 is too damn good!

So yes I would appreciate some parts to fix my issues

New power cord (heavier gauge,no nub)

Replacement male plug for the RO150

I appreciate the service, and we as customers do expect it. Because of service like this you'll keep your customers and grow as a company. Keep it up guys, your tools are awesome, your dealers are great and now even dealing direct has shown me why I decided to go with your tools. I look forward to hearing from you, and look forward to many more years using your tools.

Canadian Woodworks

Paul Lemiski

 

[Brice Burrell]

Paul, there may be a bigger problem than one bad cord.  The problem is a bad cord could also damage the tool end of the Plug-It connection.  Read this line from Rick's quote:

So the bottom line is that even though you were noticing the damage on your plug-it cord(s), and drawing the conclusion that the multiple plug-it cords were the problem, the actual root cause was the inlet on the tool. Regardless what the cause of the original overheating condition, you now appear to have a damaged inlet on the tool.

So, you may have a bad tool and any cord you plug into that tool could get damaged. Now you've got another damaged cord(s) that could "infect" any tool it comes in contact with.  It could turn into a vicious cycle.  Please understand this is all hypothetical, worse case scenario.  It's super important to talk to Festool service when this happens.   

 

[Kevin D.]

I thought that Rick Christophersons explanation on August 12th 2009 in this FOG thread was the best answer so far.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/why-i-hate-the-'plug-it'-cord!/

I fixed your link.  This is the post, I believe.

You are burning up your cords because you have a poor connection between the tool's inlet and the plug-it connector on the cord. This results in a high resistance connection and possibly even small arcing at the connector, which in turn causes very high heat. Unfortunately, once this occurs even once, it creates a cascading degradation of the connections (that's true for any electrical plug, not just Plug-it).

The leading cause for this occurrence is not fully tightening the twist-lock on the Plug-it cords. This is the reason why I specifically point this out with a full graphic image in all of my Owner's Manuals. I know that this was mentioned previously, but it is an important enough topic that I want to make sure that everyone reading this thread fully understands it. Some Plug-it cord to tool interfaces are snug enough that when the owner turns the twist-lock, they think that they have fully tightened it, but instead, it is just beginning to hit the detent snap position. The most reliable way to ensure the twist-lock is fully engaged is to note that the twist-lock must rotate a full 90-degrees (1/4-turn).

If I recall, you have already stated that you were positive that the twist-lock was fully engaged. So given the assumption the twist-lock is fully engaged yet you are experiencing overheating problems, then it is quite clear that the electrical pins in the inlet of your sander have been damaged from previous occurrences of high heat. What happens is that once the plastic gets hot and soft, the pins no longer fit their shell as tightly as they should, and frequently, this means they will get pushed back inside of the body of the inlet. In essence, the pins are too short (from getting pushed back) to make full contact with the brass sockets in the plug-it's body.

So the bottom line is that even though you were noticing the damage on your plug-it cord(s), and drawing the conclusion that the multiple plug-it cords were the problem, the actual root cause was the inlet on the tool. Regardless what the cause of the original overheating condition, you now appear to have a damaged inlet on the tool.

Thank you!

 

[BJM9818]

Get it fixed ASAP.  I had the same thing on my Rotex 150 and it caught on fire.

 

[suds]

Just a FYI ...there's a hardwire kit available for less than $30.00 for the RO 150 FEQ...ITEM #479 982 & 492 780

 

[nickao]

I have run my Rotex since I have had it, the day the newer version came out 2 or 3 years ago?

I have used it 8 hours straight with turning it off no more than 5 minutes, I unplug and plug it in every day. I have never had that issue. Could it be a newer batch or two were  made wrong or with inferior parts. Mine is rock solid and I feel I abuse the sander like no other.

I must say that the Milwaukee and the DeWalt quick release seem much more sturdy, still I never had an issue with any of the Festool plugs yet and I have been using them daily for 3 years or so. I just click them all the way into place every time, could that be the problem, people not clicking them all the way over?

Where are you able to purchase those kits? I would not mind having them sitting on the shelf in case this ever did happen to me.