Metabo/Elektra Beckum/Record Power Planer Thicknesser?

[Locks14]

I recently got a Metabo HC 260c planer thicknesser for squaring some rough sawn wood for a few projects I have coming up.

The jointer aspect of the planer works fine, but the thicknesser aspect does not work at all.  After a phone call to Metabo, it transpired that the rollers that feed the material have not been properly set and the bolts that set/adjust them have just been finger snugged but not set in any manner, this results in the rollers being below the level of the cutter head, so whilst the material feeds, it doesn't make contact with the blades.

This should have been set in the factory, but wasn't. So there is no part of the user manual that offers instructions in setting this, nor do I have the time to return the machine.

Does anyone have any experience with this machine type and know of the correct procedure to set the rollers?

Thanks

Locks.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

No experience with this machine. Was thinking of purchasing in the future might not now

 

[charley1968]

I'd ring their service-department, ask for a technician and have him/her walk you through the steps.

 

[Kev]

There's a lot of youtube vids on this planer ... watched a couple (nothing I noticed regarding your issue). It appears to be a cumbersome machine to switch modes. Can you get your $'s back?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Feed rollefs should be below the cutting circle, 3/64" in feed and 1/64" outfeed.

 

[Locks14]

There's a lot of youtube vids on this planer ... watched a couple (nothing I noticed regarding your issue). It appears to be a cumbersome machine to switch modes. Can you get your $'s back?

I wouldn't say it's cumbersome, once you've done it a few time it can be done in no more than a minute. It's can be a little tiresome though, if you need to swap back and forth a lot. Though if you plan ahead and get all the jointing done first then all the thicknessing, it's not too bad.

The thought of getting my money back had crossed my mind. But since I wanted an all-in-one machine with a degree of portability, there isn't a better option! The only other option is a cheaper machine that's not as good or a Dewalt which is twice the price and has had some absolutely terrible reviews.

 

[Locks14]

Feed rollefs should be below the cutting circle, 3/64" in feed and 1/64" outfeed.

Thanks very much. I did get it working through trial and error, but I think there's room for improvement so I'll try these tollorances and see if it improves the situation.

 

[SMJoinery]

I have the same machine in the workshop.
I haven't had any issues with it and found it a great wee machine to use.
I don't find it any issue changing it over but had it for over a year so maybe used to it....I thickness first though and then change over.
Let me know if I can be any assistance with photos / dims etc if you need them.
Good luck getting it going.

 

[Stephen B]

....I thickness first though and then change over.

[size=13pt]I  am curious regarding this remark.

It has been my experience, and as taught to me by others, that one edge/face of the timber should be planed straight on a planer/jointer or in planer/jointer mode first prior to thicknessing. This straightened edge goes through the Thicknesser on the side opposite the blades. Otherwise the Thicknesser follows the bend/banana of the timber no matter how slight, or if the bend is flipped over more wood than necessary  is removed in the thicknessing process and with the bottom curve still remaining.
[size=8pt]
[member=25539]SMJoinery[/member]

Note on edit. I added '/face' to edge, to avoid confusion. It was very early morning down here when I wrote this and subsequent comments.

 

[Locks14]

....I thickness first though and then change over.

[size=13pt]I  am curious regarding this remark.

It has been my experience, and as taught to me by others, that one edge of the timber should be planed straight on a planer/jointer or in planer/jointer mode first prior to thicknessing. This straightened edge goes through the Thicknesser on the side opposite the blades. Otherwise the Thicknesser follows the bend/banana of the timber no matter how slight, or if the bend is flipped over more wood than necessary  is removed in the thicknessing process and with the bottom curve still remaining.
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[member=25539]SMJoinery[/member]

I can only assume he uses this method to resize timber that's already been planed square, thicknessing first then refining on the joiner. As you say, to use this method on timber that's not square would result in it still not being square.

 

[Stephen B]

[size=13pt]Exactly Lock.

It is my experience also in timber sales that one can never assume that dressed timber for sale is perfectly square and straight, even when 'eye balled'.
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[member=49749]Locks14[/member]

 

[SMJoinery]

I use my thicknesser mainly for faces not edges unless it's smaller sections. . For example If I buy a 3000m length of 225mm X 27mm oak of sawn board my first task is to put it through the thicknesser until two faces dressed and I'm I'm down to my build thickness say 22mm. I'm not concerned about edges at this point only the faces.
Change machine to jointer.
I used to straight edge board on jointer but now prefer to use 3m rail & track saw to do it.
Finish dimensioning timber with track saw or table saw and finish edges on jointer.

 

[Stephen B]

[size=13pt]I see what you are at but you still seem to be assuming that the faces as purchased are not curved (and or cupped).Even ever so slightly.

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[member=25539]SMJoinery[/member]

 

[SMJoinery]

Pic is the Metabo facing off a one of many oak boards. 2 faces down to 22mm.
I don't think even if I wanted to that the machine has the capacity to thickness this board dimension on edge.
We have two good timber suppliers here in my locality. I don't check anything for square but if it's not what I'm looking for or up to the standard that the job requires then I keep looking.

 

[SMJoinery]

[size=13pt]I see what you are at but you still seem to be assuming that the faces as purchased are not curved (and or cupped).Even ever so slightly.

[size=8pt]
[member=25539]SMJoinery[/member]

The thicknesser can cope with slightly cupped boards?
I would put board in thicknesser with "curve" up (convex).
Take a couple of passes through thicknesser. Your looking to plane a surface around half the face of board. Then flip over and repeat. This will remove slight cupping but it's a case of experience and checking that your final dim (22mm) isn't compromised.
I prefer to do it this way than try to straighten a face on the jointer 225mm wide and only 27mm thick.
Thicknesser for faces first.
Reference mark on best face
Jointer or track saw for straight edge with track on reference face.
Track saw or table saw for widths with fence against straight edge.
Jointer for both edges with reference face against fence.
Hope that helps explain the process that someone taught me over 30 years ago.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

All lumber gets faced/flattened on my jointer before that side goes down through my planer.

 

[Lbob131]

I recently got a Metabo HC 260c planer thicknesser for squaring some rough sawn wood for a few projects I have coming up.

, so whilst the material feeds, it doesn't make contact with the blades.

Thanks

Locks.

I have this  this planer  in the electra beckum  model which is basically the same machine.
And my first thought  is  that  the  table is not raised enough.

When flatteining  boards I use the  same method  as  SM.