mfk 700 kit question?

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Apr 14, 2008
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Is it possible to get the 0 degree base instead of the 1.5 degree base with the kit?

That is all.
 
[big grin] Bob!!

the 1.5 degree is for like edge trimming right?

I need to make a bunch of beaded edging for the insides of a paneled wall I am making.
 
WarnerConstCo. said:
[big grin] Bob!!

the 1.5 degree is for like edge trimming right?

I need to make a bunch of beaded edging for the insides of a paneled wall I am making.

Darcy, I'm not sure that is going to work out.  There's only a bearing (no base or fence) for the router to ride on when used horizontally so using a beading bit isn't going to work.  Maybe I'm not understanding how you intend to use the MFK.  I think you'd want the edge trimming accessories (angle arm and edging plate).
 
Brice Burrell said:
WarnerConstCo. said:
[big grin] Bob!!

the 1.5 degree is for like edge trimming right?

I need to make a bunch of beaded edging for the insides of a paneled wall I am making.

Darcy, I'm not sure that is going to work out.  There's only a bearing (no base or fence) for the router to ride on when used horizontally so using a beading bit isn't going to work.  Maybe I'm not understanding how you intend to use the MFK.  I think you'd want the edge trimming accessories (angle arm and edging plate).

I see what you mean, it has that guide roller thing and I dont see a way to drop the bit where I want it vertically.

See, I hate routers.  I wish the darn mill shop had that profile that I want/need, so much easier that way.
 
Yes, in the horizontal position the MFK rides on a bearing so there is nothing to keep it perfectly perpendicular to the edge being routed.  Like I said, the edge routing accessories will do what you want.
 
the 1.5 degree is for like edge trimming right?

I need to make a bunch of beaded edging for the insides of a paneled wall I am making.

The 1.5-degree base is to tilt the bit just enough to ensure that it doesn't contact the surface beyond where you want the cut to finish, inward of the router motor when it is horizontal.

If you use the zero-degree base, a straight bit, (or any variation thereof), has more of a chance of making casual contact with the surface of the main work piece, while you are only trying to trim edge banding or similar. The 1.5-degree base gives you that "little extra".

Tom
 
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