MFK700 versus Lipping planer for veneer and hardwood edge banding?

[Josh2]

Hi,

Any views on MFK700 versus a lipping planer (e.g. Lamello cantex) for trimming edge banding? I know about the limitations of each (e.g. MFK 700 can’t do very thick hardwood edge banding but is more flexible). But how does the quality of the finish compare? How about speed? Does a lipping planer also work well with thin veneer or other edge banding applied with the Conturo? Or are these machines really for thicker hardwood edge banding?

Thanks!

 

[Peter_C]

There is a modification for the MFK700 so it will cut thicker edging.http://www.halfinchshy.com/2010/12/extending-capacity-of-mfk-700.html

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I kind of over-did the modification, but it works great. I would prefer a down-spiral or at least a down-sheer bit, but the bigger diameter makes up for it, at least some. 5/8" diameter and a full inch of cut length.

If you can get by with less cut length, Shaper Tools has just come out with a 16mm bit, both diameter and length, with an 8mm shank too.
Maybe 3 flute too? I haven't seen one in person, but it looks interesting at least.  They sell it as a bottom flattening cutter for pockets, using the Origin, but it could certainly be used for other things too.

 

[Oldwood]

The Lamello cantex is a one trick pony but it does the trick very well. The geometry of head  results in a shearing cut towards the panel that results in clean cuts with almost no tear out ever.

It is an expensive tool but if you have enough edging to do it is worth it.. It has an very accurate fence and depth adjustment. It will work on thick edges as well as thin banding.

I sold mine with the business but would have kept it if I had enough edges to justify it.

 

[afish]

The MFK with the vertical base is made to work "similar" to a lipping planer when used with their 500368 bit. However, very few if any use it this way. This does away with the need to modify the horizontal base however some may prefer that style.  On a side note I just went to the Festool USA site and didnt see the MFK listed any longer...

 

[squall_line]

The Lamello cantex is a one trick pony but it does the trick very well. The geometry of head  results in a shearing cut towards the panel that results in clean cuts with almost no tear out ever.

It is an expensive tool but if you have enough edging to do it is worth it.. It has an very accurate fence and depth adjustment. It will work on thick edges as well as thin banding.

I sold mine with the business but would have kept it if I had enough edges to justify it.

I appreciate this quote, because so often I see people (myself included) justify one-off tools as "worth it, even for just a few small projects".  This is a good reminder that some things might not be worth the added expense and learning curve unless the volume is really significant.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The MFK with the vertical base is made to work "similar" to a lipping planer when used with their 500368 bit. However, very few if any use it this way. This does away with the need to modify the horizontal base however some may prefer that style.  On a side note I just went to the Festool USA site and didnt see the MFK listed any longer...

Yeah, I just can't seem to make myself even try it like that. Even with a very light cut, which this should be anyway, it just seems like you would get a very bad surface finish? The bit is "stirring" around, rather than shaving.

 

[afish]

The MFK with the vertical base is made to work "similar" to a lipping planer when used with their 500368 bit. However, very few if any use it this way. This does away with the need to modify the horizontal base however some may prefer that style.  On a side note I just went to the Festool USA site and didnt see the MFK listed any longer...

Yeah, I just can't seem to make myself even try it like that. Even with a very light cut, which this should be anyway, it just seems like you would get a very bad surface finish? The bit is "stirring" around, rather than shaving.

Cant say for sure, but I think it would depend on the material wood, pvc, acrylic... eventually someone here will pony up and do it.  As a side note I did just do the paul marcell mod and a .25" bit almost bottoms out the height adjuster.  I tried laying some v32 over my material to protect it and give a nice slick surface to run the MFK over and the .25 bit is just a tad to small to get a flush cut with the added thickness of v32.  So looks like a 8mm bit is in my future too. However I had an epiphany about using a 0 flute bit since they are designed for plastics it might even work better than the 2 flute upcut on pvc banding.   

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I see the 1/4" diameter bit as too small for this anyway, too much stick-out for side milling.
I like bigger diameter cutters to get a lower angle on the cut, so I moved up to the 8mm shank and searched through the places I know about. 8mm shanks are not the easiest thing to find in the US, but possible. You're not going to find them on the shelves at the local shops, but Lee Valley provides, as well as a few European suppliers.

I had never even heard of a lipping planer, when I got my first MFK700. "Lipping" is a rather European word, where we would just call it edging. I may have gone that way, because that is my original need in the first place. The MFK700 did what I needed and was capable of other things too, so it worked out.

 

[afish]

Yes, 8mm cutters are difficult to find but I did find a Amana 8mm O flute bit on Amazon so got a win there.  Should be here Monday, so they are out there luckily.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

8mm O flute? got an item number? That might be helpful with cutting acrylics.

Looks like I found it 51498-Z

 

[afish]

Amana Tool - 51498 Metric Solid Carbide CNC Spiral 'O' Single Flute, Aluminum Cutting 8 Di

There is 2 left on amazon