MFS alternative for stop/squaring stock

suds

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Joined
Aug 25, 2008
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I've been reading Jerry Work's great write up on the MFS and how he uses it as a stop and measuring aid in setting up stock under the guide rail.  Wondered if anyone has substituted the MFS with just a perfecly square stock (aluminum/plastic/wood) and glued a tape measure to the sides?  It would seem to me that using a pefectly square sheet with the tapes would be a inexpensive substitute for the MFS in setting up a stop/adjuster for stock under the Guide Rail.
 
I don't think you need to buy an MFS to square up stock. I've noticed those that do use the MFS, always build a full rectangle. That shouldn't be necessary either.

Here is one of the items I use. It's 2 extrusions from the 8020 store and a 90 degree joining plate along with a pair of Qwas Dogs to hold it square to the table's holes.  [smile]

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Hi suds,

I agree. I have a simple board that has served this purpose for many years. Last year I did a small photo essay here on the fog
storyboard

I have the tape measure more toward the middle of the board and have slots cut out of the board to be able to handle different stock thickness.

Rey

 
Wow Rey, you really have it dialed in...thanks for the ideas.  Between yours and the other fellas with the plastic sight line I'm going to be able to come up with a pretty good substitute for the MFS as a squaring aid.  How do you allow for the kerf of the blade though.  I was working this weekend on some cabinet pieces and if I used the black rubber on the guide rail as the "zero" point, I was off by the width of the kerf.  The piece I was going to use was on the right side of the Guide Rail.
 
suds said:
How do you allow for the kerf of the blade though.  I was working this weekend on some cabinet pieces and if I used the black rubber on the guide rail as the "zero" point, I was off by the width of the kerf.  The piece I was going to use was on the right side of the Guide Rail.

Thanks suds. I don't really use the rubber strip for determining the layout or lining up a cut. Instead, the (story) board when dialed in to '0' from the back of the rail is exactly '0' inches away from the blade.

This pic shows the board before being cut to zero. The back of the MFT rail is sitting exactly on zero. When the board is cut in this position, zero on the scale will always be right next to the blade
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Here, the cut is made and the board is zero'd. If you were to lay your material against the (story) board here, you'd get a cut of zero length, aka only sawdust. This is given that the keeper piece is under the rail. If you slide the (story) board back 3" as measured from the scale and the back of the rail, your keeper piece would be exactly 3" under the rail, butted against the (story) board.
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Hope that makes sense.
Rey
 
Great illustration...I got it.  I was wondering how the scale was working and now I can see/understand what you've done. 
 
"This is given that the keeper piece is under the rail."  That is where I've been so confused.  I've always gone the other way and my "keeper piece" is on the right side of the rail (or starboard to you sailors).  I'm always off a smidge because of my allowance for the saw blade not being exact. 
 
I had the same problem when I started using the saw and rail. I blamed it being left handed.  [big grin]  Give it a few weeks and it will start to become natural. Just try to remember, "what is under the rail gets a nicer cut with less splintering".
 
Rey, I was wondering what you do to "measure" when your cut is exceeding 7.5"  I'm setting mine up like yours along with adding a "side extrusion" like Jerry Works.  I had a couple of Rail Dogs from Qwas that I attached to a 30" section of aluminum track and attached to the table for the "fence".  I position the end of the track against the back of the rail (Where your "0" references) and cut my tape so it measures 7.5" at the end of the track. When the cut exceeds 7.5" I start referencing the cut off the tape attached to the "fence".  As the Storyboard slides to the left it is showing the increasing dimension of the cut.  Do you see any problems doing it this way or am I missing something?  ???
 
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