MFT/3 Guide Rail Supports are sloppy

[sancho57]

I've had that issue.

Was it a show stopper?

No !

I build anything and everything I need to.

Added to slop stop recently and. Yea it did make a difference.

Few other thing help like adding a 2nd protractor to the fence, w saw stop and mines dead nuts on.

 

[Df1k1]

I think Bohdan may be onto something. I also have this problem ( to be fair it has been brought up on this thread before as I've searched for possible answers. Slop Stop is not the answer in this case). I've gotten to the point that every time I raise or lower I check for square and re adjust as necessary. Will try Bohdan's method next time.

Clearly this is not ideal based on the cost of the system. However I've learned to live with and really am happy with the MFT.

 

[jamanjeval]

When you raise it from the squared to fence rail position, it has the tendency to wonder left or right, positioning the tab engaging the guide rail moving a good 2mm resulting a skewed angle for the guide rail.

When I change height, I lift up on the lever to drop the support pin, put the sock on the table and lower the saw rail onto it. Then, I raise the plate with the support pin to meet the bottom of the track and lock it down. Make sure the two folded over flat spots that support the track are both touching the track, and you should be good.

As I said before, I still verify it.

edit: credit to Bohdan, I didn't see his post. He had the same answer first.

 

[TheSergeant]

I just bought a MFT3 and read this thread and freaked out based on the comments that you have to readjust square everytime you change material thickness.  I ran out to the garage and started looking more closely at my table.  Turns out the OP is correct, you can skew but support by raising and lowering it but it's the result of user error.

So, the problem technically exists but only if you aren't following the proper steps to adjust the rail height.  Bohdan and Jamanjeval are correct in their approach.  When you raise and lower the guides you have to have the rail down, on top of the material being cut and also atop of the front support.  The pin needs to be in the T-track and the support arms to the left and right need to be in contact with the rail (push up on the support from the bottom).  When you do this you're basically squaring the support bracket to the rail, which is parallel to the table and tracks but also perpendicular to the plastic piece that the metal support rides over.  When you clamp everything down after pressing the support up into the guide rail it's self squaring.  If you don't apply pressure from the bottom up you risk there being a gap on either the left or right fence support 'arms' on the bracket, which results in a skewed bracket and out of square cut. 

All that being said, it could be designed better and the more I look at the entire assembly the cheaper it looks to me. 

Hope that helps!