MFT 3 vs older version 1080

Jesus Aleman

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Nov 12, 2008
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Anyone out there that has had both the new (/3) and older (1080 and 800) MFT tables.  I was wondering if you have a preference.

JGA.
 
I have only a MFT/3, but my neighbor has a 1080 which I have used and he loves my MFT/3. Though I haven't examined all the differences what I have noticed as main difference are the fence on the MFT/3 can be positioned without screws and places anywhere, the extrusions on the side are different and the MFT/3 is a little higher.
 
It appears to me that the fence will lock in anywhere on the MFT/3 with repeatable accuracy.  The fence on the 1080 and 800 (which I have in my shop) cannot be removed and then reset, even in same holes, without considerable readjustment.  The thru bolts never seem to seat in exact same positions.  It appears there is not the same problem with the /3.
Tinker
 
I had a 1080 for three years and upgraded to the MFT/3.  I liked the MFT 1080, and find the /3 to have some very good refinements. 

Key differences:

- slightly different size in table dimensions
- /3 is taller by about 4 inches - much more comfortable if you are taller
- /3 is a great side table if you have the Kapex on the MFT/Kapex table. The /3 top matches the Kapex bed exactly.
- /3 is a bit lighter by a few pounds - useful if you are carrying it to job sites
- /3 has a much more useful fence in my opinion - it will work on any side and will move in or out, and support angle cuts in both directions, while the 1080 only indexes angles in one direction
- I got the leg stabilizers with the /3 and it's more stable with them.  The leg configuration on the /3 is a bit closer together so I found that it was not quite as stable as the 1080.  It's taller and a bit narrower so that may account for the stability differences and the reason they introduced the stabilizers as an option.  I also have a plywood shelf under the table that I recut from the 1080 and it adds to stability when I load it with stuff.  I would recommend you get the leg stabilizers if you are keeping it stationary.  If you're frequently moving it, they may be a bit more hassle than you want to deal with.
- The side rails with the V-notch allow rapid fence attachment and movement, and will accomodate future accessories.  I created side extensions for my Kapex/MFT and those extensions work great on the MFT/3 using the same v-notch that is on the side of the Kapex and Kapex/MFT
- With the /3, you gain a wider clamping area under the side rails when you want to clamp from the top under the side rails.  But you lose a T-slot to the top, which does limit some of the homemade accessories you could fashion and attach with T-nuts.  Both tables have the side-oriented T-slot track for attaching directly to the side
- with the /3 and new fence you have more crosscut capacity when you slide the fence all the way to the back of the table.  I can cut a full 26 1/2" piece now.
- you can also pull the fence forward very easily for bringing the work closer to you without having to lean over the table.  You could on the older table, but it was more work to unclamp and move the fence
- the fence on the /3 has a horizontal and vertical option.  So it's about 1/2" thick in the low position and about 2" in the high position.  I really like the way it fits under the guide rail in the low position - great for cutting 1/2" ply or other stock.  The 1080 fence was a bit thicker as I recall in the low position, and did not have the high position flexibility.

I know Per Swenson had done a review of the MFT/3 so you might want to search for that here or on the Festool USA site.

neil
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Thanks neilc. Your comments are gold.  Do you think the stabilizers make the table stiff enough for handplaning (mainly for cleaning saw/bit marks)?

JGA.
 
You might be able to handplane on the short dimension - with a foot on the cross brace to add additional stability. 

But I don't think you'll find it to be stable enough for planing on the long dimension, even with the stabilizers for any serious planing. 

In any case, if you decide to handplane, you may be limited to light strokes.

Others here may have more experience -

neil
 
As an owner of one MFT 1080 and two MFT 800s, I cannot speak to the differences between the old MFTs and the new MFT/3.  I addressed the tendency of the old MFT 1080 to oscillate in racking mode when put to loads like planing and chiseling by connecting one of my MFT 800s to an end of the MFT 1080 using the Festool connectors made for that purpose.  Because the leg mountings are at right angles to one another with this table arrangment, the pair of tables stabilize each other against loading from any side.  Not as good as a traditional heavy woodworker's bench, but pretty good.

Dave R.
 
If you do not use the fence system(I never do) the MFT 1080 or 800 is a far better deal.

Even the newer fence on the MFT3 that I have used would not make me get one. I have so many other tools that could make the cuts better, faster, simpler.

To me the MFT is a great assembly clamping table. Like Dave I use 1/4" ply on top when I use it for cutting.
 
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