MFT and Guide Rail Alignment

mhch said:
I remember I read somewhere in this forum that Festool recently decided to slightly change
the hole diameter ....

Do you have any more information about this, mhch?

Ned
 
Qwas said:
And let's not forget, by sticking bench dogs (or better yet, the clamping element stops) in a horizontal row and a vertical row, we can have a 90 degree gluing corner in various spots on the table.

Yep, one of the first things I did the other night.  In my case, I use the clamping element holders to align some loose lengths of Incra Track.  Lightning fast and dead on.  I'm a really happy camper now.

As to the different sized holes in my tables, I think I'll just need to wrap tape around some holders for the loose holes such that they center properly and align with the holders in the other table.  Not too bad, just need to order some extra holders...  and you know what that leads to...  Hmmm.

I'm not too worried about getting angles over the two conjoined tables.  It is great that the holes will assist in aligning to parallel, square and 45 on one table -- I think I should only require that the holes in joined tables align for parallel and square, as they now should if the fixtures fit snug.

Corwin
 
Corwin said:
As to the different sized holes in my tables, I think I'll just need to wrap tape around some holders for the loose holes such that they center properly and align with the holders in the other table.  Not too bad, just need to order some extra holders...  and you know what that leads to...  Hmmm.

I'm not too worried about getting angles over the two conjoined tables.  It is great that the holes will assist in aligning to parallel, square and 45 on one table -- I think I should only require that the holes in joined tables align for parallel and square, as they now should if the fixtures fit snug.

Corwin

Just remember, 14 days to order before the price increase! Get that catalog out.

I don't have 2 tables but I'm thinking like you. I don't feel like I need to guide the full length of a board every time. You might have noticed the fences I'm making now are 18-32 inches. Enough to steady a board and hold it firm.
 
Qwas said:
Just remember, 14 days to order before the price increase! Get that catalog out.

Well, the problem is that I just did that last week and my order is currently in route...  No, no, no... not again already.  But hey, how else do you get free shipping?
 
I agree the cross table alignment of hole diagonals might be very rarely needed, but one never knows.

It is definitely the case that that hole patterns across two tables are slightly off unless
some care is taken when joining the table.  Simply joining side rails won't work since
tables top and rail frames may not be square on the same table, and that the screwing
of a table top to the table frame is likely not CNC controlled, not mentionning that
carrying MFTs in a truck or a car may damage the screws as someone mentionned it.

Qwas, I think you got the right to  have your name in the "wall of fame" of this forum,
i.e. create/maintain a thread in the reference section which you could name
"Getting the most from the MFT top and its holes"  ...

 
Thanks mhch. I don't know about Hall of Fame yet, I think we need some time to see this working in action.

I have been thinking about trying to clean all of this thread up and start something under Reviews. I was thinking of a title "MFT: Secrets Unveiled".

As you can tell from this thread, I'm not a very good writer. I have problems conveying my thoughts into words. I'm left-handed and have been told lefties think differently. I guess for now that is my excuse for my writing style.

By the way, you have been a great, tremendous help to me in getting these thoughts out so others can understand. Thanks.

Everyone else, thanks for your help and patience. This thread was started within hours of seeing a new way to use the MFT. You have bared through watching that vision mature to  where it is now. And your input has been invaluable.
 
As a review, we have seen how to align the rail, make a perfect crosscut, make  parallel cuts, make 45 degree miters, duplicate American roof slopes, without ever getting out a square or angle measuring unit.

Not too bad for a weeks work!
 
mhch said:
Lefties are known to be creative  .... so are you without any doubt.

Thanks. I've edited that post, be sure to read it. I feel like there is something still missing with my vision.

I think for now I'm going to rest my mind and get back to the projects I've been neglecting. But now that others can see the vision perhaps this vision will continue to mature.
 
I think the parallelogram idea is worth mentionning in the review as it helps
keeping parallel or square edges.  Think of a guide rail used as one side
of a parallelogram: it can be moved at will but permanently keeps parallel
to itself !!
 
Brilliant, I love it. I didn't think about the guide rail as a leg of the parallelogram. The guide rail has the T slot on the top that could be used for it. And different sets of bars could be made to use either side of the guide rail.

I want to use my parallelogram and work any bugs out of it. I may scrap it and go with your idea, it would be cheaper for others to duplicate. The parallelogram is one of those things that got set aside as I was thinking the rest of this through. I see big potential for the parallelogram. Especially with different bars to make different widths.
 
  As said,  the sum of two minds is greater than the parts !!
  I always got worried about the swing range limitation of the parallelogram idea,
but this solves the problem

BTW, I just did a quick www "parallelogram fence" search and I found this : http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70664
Apart the controversial EZ aspect, one nice thing there is the discussion about the manufacturing
and accuracy issues of it.

 
You gotta stop this!  :)  :)  :)

Okay, i just thought this out and I've got some ideas that I will try to post tomorrow with pictures. My idea is exactly like what you saw at Sawmill Creek.

If you are familiar with 8020, I'm thinking  long 25-2514 arms going to a 25-2503 parallel arm. I'm not sure how to attach the 2514's to the 2503 yet, maybe a slot cut into the top of 2514.

And I was going to take a break...  :(
 
  Being located in very different time zones help things and ideas moving forward ....
  For me it's just the beginning of a new day (7am here in France).

  OK, let's keep posting for a while. Meanwhile, I'll have a look at the 8020 system
  which I'am unfamiliar with.
 
mhch said:
  OK, let's keep posting for a while. Meanwhile, I'll have a look at the 8020 system
  which I'am unfamiliar with.

What a Freudian slip:  I was intending to write  let's stop posting for a while
 
Actually I meant to post a smiley face next to my " You gotta stop this". :) :) :)

Yeah, it's 2:30 in the morning here and I will be spending another hour with this new parallelogram running in my mind. I can never sleep with new ideas running in my mind.

It won't need slots in the connecting arms, only hole for the attaching screws about every 4-6 inches. I need to sit with it in front of my MFT.

I'm actually beginning to think it is very do-able.

By the way, my vision here is one set of arms to cover boards (or plywood) from 4 inches to 24 inches.
 
  The MFS parts could also be used,  to stay green, although likely more expensive that
  the 80/20 parts. But at least I have them to play with. Plus there is this great plastic
  round thing to keep the router stable and flat. Would be hard to replicare this
  with the 80/20.

  The V-slots and the V-nuts can be used. Think of a hole in the V-nut to receive
  a pin which acts as a rotation point for the arms

  The Festool system still has some unveiled secrets to uncover !
 
 
mhch said:
  ... Meanwhile, I'll have a look at the 8020 system
  which I'am unfamiliar with.

Spend your time looking at their metric selection. You can download their catalog in sections. The metric Profiles (read first), Connectors, Joining Plates are the most useful. The Pivot Joints section will give some ideas for stops. If you order anything, keep in mind the 1/4 bolts fit better in their metric slots.
 
I'm still looking at the MFS and I've heard great things, but I'm having problems believing the price. I looked at the 8020 as an answer but I don't see it. I did see it as an answer to fences but I still think there is a source to a cheaper way to mimic the MFS (probably not as good, but cheaper).
 
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