MFT being discontinued

I would expect Festool to come up with a completely new table rather than modifications to an existing one.  If the MFT has been around for 10 or 11 years, then they must have lots of comments for improvements. I'm thinking something like 20 mm holes in the side rails too. And these new holes would allow new accessories as has been hinted will be happening.

I'm also thinking we will new see sizes 800, 1080 x 800, 1080 x 1080, 1080 x 1900, and 1080 x 2400. How do I come up with these sizes? look at the guide rail sizes presently available.

I'm anxious to see what Festool comes up with and I'm willing to bet money (same amount the tables will cost) that I buy one within 6 months.
 
woodwrights_corner said:
Eli,

My thinking was from a MFT point of view.  But you're right, the changes could result in something one might call a model of the CMS.  Same style, same height, same style side extrusions and end portals only with a larger than existing CMS top that is wood and drilled like the mft.

What do you think?

I think that whatever features the MFT3 has, it would be more similar in design to the old MFT than to the CMS, except for the height. The old MFT is the height of the Basis, the new MFT3 the height of the CMS. That would make sense to me. Having the v groove side extrusions that the CMS has (which are similar to Basis, CS50, CS70, and Kapex) on the MFT3 would obviate the use of all the clamps and fixtures of the current MFT, so that most likely wouldn't be a likely direction for development, as the MFT3 wouldn't be backwards compatible with all the current MFT clamps. Not their style at all.
 
Brad Evans said:
I dunno...  My MFTs, clamps, and guiderail will still work the same and be just as handy.

There's a similar sort of thing you see on the camera forums.  Nikon or Canon introduce a new model with new features, and it's like the previous years' models somehow don't work or take decent pix anymore.

The more accurate comparison would be that N or C announce that future lenses won't work with existing cameras.

In the camera world, it has to do with some needing to have the latest and absolute best - and somehow truly believing owning the best is what confers skill and talent. The Leica camera forum is a good example.  Lots of people think nothing of spending $5K for a Leica body and $3K for a lens. And then go out and shoot pix of of their kids or statues at the local park.  Go figure...

So what should be more important & interesting to them than their kids? 
 
Greg Pavlov said:
Brad Evans said:
I dunno...  My MFTs, clamps, and guiderail will still work the same and be just as handy.

There's a similar sort of thing you see on the camera forums.  Nikon or Canon introduce a new model with new features, and it's like the previous years' models somehow don't work or take decent pix anymore.

The more accurate comparison would be that N or C announce that future lenses won't work with existing cameras.

In the camera world, it has to do with some needing to have the latest and absolute best - and somehow truly believing owning the best is what confers skill and talent. The Leica camera forum is a good example.  Lots of people think nothing of spending $5K for a Leica body and $3K for a lens. And then go out and shoot pix of of their kids or statues at the local park.  Go figure...

So what should be more important & interesting to them than their kids? 

We're off-topic, but the great thing about the 'latest and best' development pressure is that now I have a phone that shoots better pictures of my kids than my first digital camera. :D
 
I'm 6'3" and I will welcome a taller work surface.  My 1080 may be available for sale shortly after the introduction of the new unit...

Anyone remotely interested in "reserving" the unit (for next spring as an example) is welcome to PM me. 

Matthew, this isn't an active sales solicitation, nor is it a classified add.  It is purely speculation...
 
I'm 5'5 (I think I'm still that tall, altho the ground seems closer to my chin each year)  I liked the first MFT I ever saw because it was the same height as my table saw and assorted workbenches.  My TS was originally about 35"s, but I discarded the legs and built my own base.  By coincidence, it was the same height as the MFT's.  I don't plan to upgrade to a newer MFT3, or whatever, unless there is a way to adjust.  Of course, I am sure the legs will be detachable and a home built base is entirely possible. 

Tinker
 
On the other hand, Festool will probably put the older model on "closeout" and you get can that second one and save a few bucks!

TP

davidpawlak said:
I just bought my first 800 mft. I was planning on getting another to go with it and now don't know if I'll be able to? I think I'll take it back and wait to get more info on the new tables. BUMMER!
 
Toolpig said:
On the other hand, Festool will probably put the older model on "closeout" and you get can that second one and save a few bucks!

TP

No, they will not be on closeout - when the MFT's are gone, they are gone and are being sold at the regular retail price.

  Bob
 
Well,again Billy & Brice weighed in with the correct answer.
I ran out to the shop to see what was the matter,and both of my MFT's were still OK.

Merry Christmas to ALL

Lynn
 
I think the current height is good and very versatile. Since it is used as a cut station, sanding station, and assembly. I think that raising the hieght to 35" will make it a little to high for assembly and sanding, but make it a little more ccomfortable for cutting and routing.

I dont own a festool mft but made my own large versions at 32". I am currently 6' tall.

Eiji
 
Tinker said:
....I am sure the legs will be detachable.... 

Tinker

So, how do you detach the legs on the current MFTs? How do you take the knobs off?

My MFT 800 has the adjustable leg on the back and I got tired of that and wanted to move it to the front by switching the legs around. I gave it a quick try and the knobs come to a stop. I don't want to force them off so is there a nondestructive way to get them off? I ended up moving everything else instead of the legs.
 
The height of my MFT is just where I want it. Of course, that is due to the 3" high riser blocks I put underneath it.

 
Michael Kellough said:
Tinker said:
....I am sure the legs will be detachable.... 

Tinker

So, how do you detach the legs on the current MFTs? How do you take the knobs off?

My MFT 800 has the adjustable leg on the back and I got tired of that and wanted to move it to the front by switching the legs around. I gave it a quick try and the knobs come to a stop. I don't want to force them off so is there a nondestructive way to get them off? I ended up moving everything else instead of the legs.

I haven't tried it, but I bet the knob itself splits in half (pops open using a screwdriver) and you can get it off somehow that way.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Tinker said:
....I am sure the legs will be detachable.... 

Tinker

So, how do you detach the legs on the current MFTs? How do you take the knobs off?

My MFT 800 has the adjustable leg on the back and I got tired of that and wanted to move it to the front by switching the legs around. I gave it a quick try and the knobs come to a stop. I don't want to force them off so is there a nondestructive way to get them off? I ended up moving everything else instead of the legs.

I never tried.  In a recent discussion, several members showed pics of their own MFT modifications.  One of them seemed to have removed the legs.  i just assumed it to be possible.

Tinker
 
Eiji F said:
I think the current height is good and very versatile. Since it is used as a cut station, sanding station, and assembly. I think that raising the hieght to 35" will make it a little to high for assembly and sanding, but make it a little more ccomfortable for cutting and routing.

I dont own a festool mft but made my own large versions at 32". I am currently 6' tall.

Eiji

32" to 35" seems to be a good height to a work surface, depending on yours.  Go measure the tops of your solidly built machines.

Steve
 
Eli said:
Greg B said:
So, how do you detach the legs on the current MFTs? How do you take the knobs off?

You, ahem, unscrew them.

GB

Have you tried to take them all the way off?

Not me. I expect that the last thread of the bolt is punched to get stuck in the nut when the knob is loosened further than needed to swing the legs. The knob probably can be removed by applying more torque but putting it back on will be a little tricky (at least) unless the bolt's thread is filed to remove the residual damage of the punch. And, once you get the knob back on you have to split it (sooner or later) to re-punch the bolt to keep the knob from over loosening. No, it probably isn't too difficult but if someone has done it and has some tips to share to reduce the damage or effort I'd appreciate it. It probably took me less time to more the other hardware than it would take to mess with the knobs.

The MFT is a great example of rudimentary technology cleverly applied. Consider the height adjustment of the guide rail fixtures. No dovetails or precision shafts, just a simple two sided wedge and a clamp. It just works.
 
Michael Kellough said:
I expect that the last thread of the bolt is punched to get stuck in the nut when the knob is loosened further than needed to swing the legs.

After examining my MFT a few minutes ago, I am pleased to say that it turns out to be a bit more hi-tech than that.

As Eli suggested would be the case, the top of the knob can be easily prised off the body by inserting a screwdriver into a slot:

MFTNut3.jpg
 
MFTNut2.jpg


It can then be seen that there is a Nyloc nut (a nut with a nylon insert) on the bolt, which stops the nut embedded in the body of the knob from being completely unscrewed from the bolt:

MFTNut1.jpg


It would be a simple matter to remove the caps from the four knobs, then remove the Nyloc nuts, and then unscrew the knobs completely from the bolts. That would allow the legs to be removed from the MFT.

Forrest (who was one of those children who was always taking apart things to see how they had been put together!)

 
I suspect there are some areas for improvement on the MFT (outside of height) - particularly with the guiderail and fence.

For example:
The guiderail is attached to the metal side extrusions; and the fence (primarily) to the MDF surface.   As a result, it doesn't take much of a bump to cause the surface to shift in the frame, thus causing the fence & rail to get out of square. That can could be greatly improved by having fence and rail mounted to the same object.

Would love to have an MFT where I can always count on squareness; like with my Unisaw (which even though I check every six months or so, it hasn't deviated from square in many years).
 
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