MFT dogs with FS cutting guides

I have a few further thoughts. Some of them might be a bit confused as this idea has evolved on 3 separate threads.

You mentioned having a 24mm head which might now be reduced in diameter to match Qwas Dogs. On The Qwas webpage he says " The small shoulders assures the dogs are aligned with the hole rather than inaccuracies in the table surface from glue, saw kerfs, or water spillage" It would seem to be a good point though one of the rail dog designs I came up with had a 28mm diameter intending to reference the table top for extra stability. I still don't have the time or funds to try it out.

I rambled on about it  here

I think a bigger diameter dog that also uses the table top for stability could be an advantage. It might mean checking the table for defects by running your hand over it before using a hole. Any defects could quickly be remedied with a light sanding. You could also put a thread in the bottom of the dog and have a bolt and washer which could be inserted easily from underneath to really lock the dog into position. This probably wouldn't be necessary when cutting most sheet materials but would give a lot of extra stability on thicker stock where any lateral forces exerted by the guide rail on the dog could cause greater inaccuracies. The ability to simply and easily lock the dog could also overcome what I perceive to be a flaw in your design. The hole size of your target market is out of your control and you will have to contend with 2 generations of MFTs and home produced 20mm tops. Qwas has a solution for the larger holes on the MFT3 by pulling the dogs closer together. You can't do that with your solution and if you machined a dog that perfectly matches the MFT3 you will possibly be excluding people with older MFTs users or shop produced solutions. Securing the dogs from underneath would be a minor inconvenience when compared to the added accuracy, wider compatibility etc. You could also clear most of your workbench very quickly by removing only the front dog which is easily accessible.    

I also keep thinking about the marriage of two dissimilar metals with the steel pin and aluminium body. It's been years since my engineering training but some minor alarm bells are going off in the back of my mind. Others might be able to expand on this? Will there be any corrosion issues 6-12 months from now?

I'm still not convinced by the two component design though I know you have mentioned that it will keep production costs down. Can you not have a piece of 1 inch aluminium machined down to whatever diameter you decide upon that projects above the table top by whatever height necessary. I don't understand the need for different height pins as I can't see how a pin that projected even up to 100mm would affect the functionality or get in the way of the saw. It would be a simple component and a dedicated rail dog. Any possible additional cost would be offset by not having to bore holes in all the rest of the dogs.

The other thing that would concern me is the tolerance required to get a good seat between the pin and the bored hole. Even if they were made of the same material there could be issues when you consider that these will be stored in the back of people's trucks. The temperature range they will have to work in will therefore be something like -15 to 45 degrees C. The two components will expand or contract at different rates across a 60 degree temperature range. There's no point having the accuracy of a CNC lathe if this simple fact shoots you in the foot. This could actually be made worse or possibly better by having two different materials. I can't imagine users being impressed if the pins get stuck in the holes.

I think your overall concept is brilliant and it solves a lot of what I perceive to be issues with the Qwas rail dogs. The part of your design that attaches to the guide rail is superb, I just think you have over designed the rail dog element. I feel that the perceived benefits in functionality and cost you have mentioned could easily be outweighed by the potential problems I have mentioned above. The only way to know for sure is field testing and I am happy to sit back and watch others do that.

Hopefully someone on here can shed some more light on this as my understanding of metallurgy and engineering is a little rusty!

I also still think that you have a marvelous opportunity to include extra functionality in the clamps that attach to the guide rail. There must be a way of including simple and cheap functionality that facilitates the easy attachment of an off the shelf parallel guide solution.  I know that you have said that this will affect cost and possibly over complicate things at this stage of development but it is obvious that you are striving to achieve excellence in your solution. It would be the dream ticket for me and many other users if you could improve on the shortcomings of the MFT, Qwas Dogs and the parallel guides with one simple component. Cost would hardly be an issue if you can provide pefect cross cutting and rip cutting. The way I see it is that anyone who wants to do perfect cross cuts also wants to do perfect rip cuts and will happily pay for the privilege. There must be a ready made fence that could attach really easily.

That is another reason why I think matching the diameter of the Qwas Dogs could be a real red herring as your solution once it has fully evolved will blow all the others away. Dogs of different diameters could still mix and match perfectly well for a lot of their use provided they are used in a different planes.

Good luck and keep up the excellent work. You are so close to a truly amazing solution.

 
andy5405 said:
I also still think that you have a marvelous opportunity to include extra functionality in the clamps that attach to the guide rail. There must be a way of including simple and cheap functionality that facilitates the easy attachment of an off the shelf parallel guide solution.  I know that you have said that this will affect cost and possibly over complicate things at this stage of development but it is obvious that you are striving to achieve excellence in your solution. It would be the dream ticket for me and many other users if you could improve on the shortcomings of the MFT, Qwas Dogs and the parallel guides with one simple component. Cost would hardly be an issue if you can provide pefect cross cutting and rip cutting. The way I see it is that anyone who wants to do perfect cross cuts also wants to do perfect rip cuts and will happily pay for the privilege. There must be a ready made fence that could attach really easily.

That was my first thought when seeing the rail guide clip attached to the top of the guide rail.

I was going to modify the clip to work with a set of parallel guides. I didn't even think of mentioning that here.
 
Difference in expansion over 60 deg. F = .0004" per inch.

1/2 inch diameter pin and hole differential = .0002"

This is not an issue.
 
andy5405 said:
Cost would hardly be an issue if you can provide pefect cross cutting and rip cutting. The way I see it is that anyone who wants to do perfect cross cuts also wants to do perfect rip cuts and will happily pay for the privilege. There must be a ready made fence that could attach really easily.

Andy,

You raise a number of points that I need more time to respond to (and I will soon) but mostly you make me realize that rushing this is not a good idea.

Here are a couple other ideas I would like your feedback on. This mounts on either side of an MFT and serves the same purpose of the dog/pin but the pin will raise/lower with the thumb screw and they can be mounted either parallel to the MFT holes or at any angle needed, just slide them along the rail either way. The only limit is the length of the FS guide rails:

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This bracket does multiple things including mounting to the rail and you can either attach an Incra type track for a parallel guide or mount a square for cross-cutting, the distance underneath (where is overhangs the rail) is .250":

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That bracket also has 2 tapped holes in one side for attaching other stuff, such as an adapter for a router.

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The larger hole in the top will allow it to either clamp to the FS rail with a tee nut/knob or to use an index pin for 32mm spacing with an index strip that slips into the track in the rail:

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Lastly this can mount to the tapped holes to do the same task the other clips did, i.e. aligning the rail to the pins.

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All this stuff has been rattling around in my head for a while, the challenge as you are aware is time and money, if I needed to have all these components made in a reasonable quantity it would cost +/- $3K up front.

I am interested to hear your thoughts on this, and I will more fully respond to your entire post soon.

thanks,

RMW

 
I'd be interested in a set. But I cant take full advantage of my ts75 capacity cos the "rail dogs" arent tall enough? :/

Could you make a few sets with an extra 20mm height for the rail dogs just for us who only have the ts75?

Anyway put me down for a set+shipping to Finland!
 
RMW said:
Andy,

You raise a number of points that I need more time to respond to (and I will soon) but mostly you make me realize that rushing this is not a good idea.

It's easy to comment on the dogs as we have been working on the same thing for quite some time so I'm familiar with your thought process.  I had put my solution on the back burner until recently as I hadn't had any further inspiration on how to secure the rail to the dogs simply and in a manner that I would want to use myself. I was massively impressed when I first saw your solution and I'm completely convinced that your idea is sound in principle and it just needs some minor tweaks. I also think it will make Qwas Dogs look like square wheels which is why I wouldn't be too bothered about compatibility.  That isn't in any way meant to be disrespectful to Steve as he is undoubtedly the driving force behind what has to date been the biggest improvement on some of the shortcomings of the MFT. I should stress that I will be buying some "square wheels" myself in the next week though they will be the German made ones that are available in the UK. If your solution was ready to ship I probably wouldn't even consider rail dogs but I need something now.

I have given the Festool parallel guides a lot of thought recently and was going to buy some until I saw Ron Paulk's video and realised they aren't the solution for me at the moment. They do have shortcomings when cutting wider stock but have to be that way to connect the extensions to rip narrow cuts. I.E They can't sit on top of the work piece. The simple mods I have seen on here overcome that and though it is a massive oversight by Festool I will probably still buy them anyway at some stage in the future. All the home made solutions I have seen on here can only cut down to just over the width of the rail and couldn't use extensions. That might be something to consider with what you are working on but I think it would be foolish to try and outdo Festool on that score as they have the dual solution nailed apart from the minor mod required ( I love the solution where the guy used keys !!)

The rest of your stuff is much harder for me to comment on as I haven't even been down any of those roads yet. I still don't actually have any kind of MFT top yet so all my thoughts on dog solutions are purely theoretical. I can't wait to use them in the New Year when I am back on site as I know it will take my thought process to the next level.

The rest of my creative thoughts recently have been have been centered around work benches. I have a solution that I am really happy with that I think has mass appeal and most importantly isn't geared to my specific needs at any given time. The current design of bench has evolved over a 9 month period and I have an advantage on this score as I'm using my Festools on a daily basis on my current bench. I know without having to ask you how much thought goes into all of the inspired solutions that you and other people come up with on here.

That brings me to the point you made about rushing a solution. At some point we all have to bite the bullet and produce something. I'm going to produce my next bench over Xmas which will be imperfect cut down solution due to lack of funds. However mine won't be for sale to others (maybe one day??) I think your solution as it stands would be absolutely fine but could easily be improved. That probably adds another month or so till production time and I don't think that's a bad thing. I have dozens of ideas on the go at the moment and have realised that Rome wasn't built in a day. I would maybe tweak the dog element which I think is over complicated and stick with your current method of attaching it to the guide rail. I would then get it out there as there is clearly a demand. You can then get to work on all the other ideas whilst getting invaluabe feedback from the early adopters of your first generation product. I'd happily buy it as it is right now. I'm sure you can't wait to get it out there but patience is a virtue whilst procrastination is the thief of time. Only you can decide!
 
First off, thanks to everyone who weighed in with comments and suggestions, including a number of people who PM’ed me. So far this has been a challenging process, both because I am not experienced in manufacturing and also I have had to battle my own tendency to overcomplicate things.  The feedback I received caused me to reconsider a couple of key elements:

I initially wanted to offer a multi-purpose dog that could be used with or without the pins. This complicated matters since the dog/pin tolerance needed to be tight (not insurmountable) and there was the potential of introducing slop due to multiple components. Even if the initial tolerance was tight the larger concern was raised of wear over time developing due to between an aluminum dog and a steel pin.

These 2 concerns caused me to reconsider a one piece “guide-dog” with an integral pin, eliminating the need for the steel pin and any chance of wear/slop developing over time.

This led me to consider wear between the guide and the pin, which may be a concern even with a one-piece dog if the guide clip is also aluminum.

I have used my prototypes a fair amount but not nearly as much as a professional would use them, so I do not know how big an issue wear will be over time. I do think it is prudent to assume the worst and try to avoid the situation.

All of this has led me to design a one-piece dog with an integral guide pin (as JeromeM suggested in the beginning) and also to switch from aluminum to Acetal (Delrin) for the guide clips. Acetal is extremely tough and (surprising to me) slightly more costly than aluminum. The other dogs remain the same except that the counter-bore for the pin is eliminated. The 8mm thru bore remains.

The overall manufacturing cost is actually somewhat higher; primarily due to having 3 custom-made parts now instead of 2 (the pins were off-the-shelf).  The same # of sets now means I order ½ as many of 2 different dogs, increasing the unit cost of each one. Since this is largely an experiment at this stage I am trying to cover my costs + a small profit (or margin of error) that I can plow into the next round or idea, if there is one. If this evolves beyond the first round then I am sure the manufacturing costs can be brought down to a profitable level.

The new set would include 2 each of the guide dogs, low profile dogs, guide clips, thumb screws and tee nuts. Here are some new images of the different components.

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I do want to pull the trigger and get these out into the field, but in fairness anyone who buys them needs to be forewarned that they are untested in heavy use and there may be issues that develop over time.

Any input on the latest concept is appreciated.

RMW

 
RMW said:
First off, thanks to everyone who weighed in with comments and suggestions, including a number of people who PM’ed me. So far this has been a challenging process, both because I am not experienced in manufacturing and also I have had to battle my own tendency to overcomplicate things.  The feedback I received caused me to reconsider a couple of key elements:
The new set would include 2 each of the guide dogs, low profile dogs, guide clips, thumb screws and tee nuts. Here are some new images of the different components
I do want to pull the trigger and get these out into the field, but in fairness anyone who buys them needs to be forewarned that they are untested in heavy use and there may be issues that develop over time.

Any input on the latest concept is appreciated.

RMW

What hight material would you be designing these Rip Dogs for?

I always have a sacrificial sheet of 20mm sheet of expanded polystyrene between my "MFT" style top and the sheet goods being cut so as a minimum I would need to accommodate 45mm thickness.

With the first design different lengths of pin would permit a wide range of material thickness, and one could possibly locate bar stock to cut custom lengths.

While the new design would have much less chance of slop it looks to be less flexible.

That is unless you make sure that the "guide clips" can register on an 8mm pin. If you do that then we could use 8mm bar stock in the 2  "low profile dogs" if a longer custom length is needed. We should be able to find 8mm bar stock without too much difficulty locally.

BTW why 8mm?
 
I was working in the shop yesterday and hit a snag, I am getting much more slop than I originally noticed. The dogs are wobbling more than I previously realized and it is imparting an error to the cuts. I notice it most on narrow stock, when I normally place the dogs closer to each other.

Here is a short clip of the issue:

Rip Dog wobble

My shop it unheated and this time of year it is very dry, I get a wide variation in humidity because we live on the coast & during the summer we have pretty high humidity, in winter the air is dry. I calipered the dogs and holes and my measurement of the dogs was either 19.86 or 19.87mm, while the MFT holes ranged between 19.98 and 20.02mm. My hunch is that the wobble is caused by a combination of the dogs shrinking ever of slightly and/or the MFT holes expanding either due to cold or lack of humidity.

By my math this gives a possible range between .11mm and .16mm, or .0043" and .0063".

In this next video I measure the movement at the top of the pin and got a range of + 0.030 and -0.030, using a 0.001" test indicator. This is enough slop to cause a problem when cutting narrower material.

Wonble

None of this takes into account the variation in MFT holes out there, I think I have a real problem here.

 
RMW said:
I was working in the shop yesterday and hit a snag, I am getting much more slop than I originally noticed. The dogs are wobbling more than I previously realized and it is imparting an error to the cuts. I notice it most on narrow stock, when I normally place the dogs closer to each other.

That is a very significant degree of slop.

AFAIR all the dogs I have (Festool, B&D workmate, dowel, and plastic conduit) are 20mm diameter. All of these fit nicely into
My MFT grid pattern holes which have all been routed with the Festool 20mm hinge bit so they are probably fractionaly over 20mm.

To me this suggests that for me 20mm would work best. However that may not work for others.

For me the rail clips alone (depending on price) could be of interest. As I could probably be able to cobble together dogs to register them.

Good luck.
 
JeromeM said:
RMW said:
I was working in the shop yesterday and hit a snag, I am getting much more slop than I originally noticed. The dogs are wobbling more than I previously realized and it is imparting an error to the cuts. I notice it most on narrow stock, when I normally place the dogs closer to each other.

For me the rail clips alone (depending on price) could be of interest. As I could probably be able to cobble together dogs to register them.

Actually I am thinking that the clips are the most useful part, there are several ways to implement the pins. I am not sure I want to try to overcome the differences in MFT holes, it looks to me like a no-win situation.

I am going to place an order for a trail batch of the clips later today and will let you know when I receive them. I want a few sets for my own use to develop this more and will make the extras available to whomever want them.

Thanks,

RMW
 
RMW said:
Actually I am thinking that the clips are the most useful part, there are several ways to implement the pins. I am not sure I want to try to overcome the differences in MFT holes, it looks to me like a no-win situation.

I am going to place an order for a trail batch of the clips later today and will let you know when I receive them. I want a few sets for my own use to develop this more and will make the extras available to whomever want them.

Thanks,

RMW
I am interested in a pair.

Will you have the screws and knobs to attach them? Also what would you estimate the minimum and maximum size of pin the will register on?
 
Screw/knobs and tee nuts are available.

I am tweaking the design a bit right now. The minimum pin size as designed is about 12mm (1/2"). The max is about 16mm.

I changed the design to enable it to snug up to a pin when pulled in either direction as I have a use in mind that needs the rail to slide in reverse rather that in the direction of the typical cut. I also increased the thickness to 9.525mm or 3/8" to make them more durable. Here are the latest renderings.

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RMW
 
RMW said:
Screw/knobs and tee nuts are available.

I am tweaking the design a bit right now. The minimum pin size as designed is about 12mm (1/2"). The max is about 16mm.

I changed the design to enable it to snug up to a pin when pulled in either direction as I have a use in mind that needs the rail to slide in reverse rather that in the direction of the typical cut. I also increased the thickness to 9.525mm or 3/8" to make them more durable. Here are the latest renderings.

RMW
It's looking interesting could you make the minimum pin size a little under 10mm?

I ask as a 10mm steel pin in a 20mm wood dowel would be easier to to make, I think.
 
I think that will work - this design should work from 3/8" (9.525mm) to over 1/2" (12.7mm). I don't see an issue with doing it this way.

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i dont see any problem with that . it will make it stronger and allow for more pin options.

try wraping the dog part in tape a few times to see if it will stop the slop
 
RMW said:
I was working in the shop yesterday and hit a snag, I am getting much more slop than I originally noticed. The dogs are wobbling more than I previously realized and it is imparting an error to the cuts. I notice it most on narrow stock, when I normally place the dogs closer to each other.

None of this takes into account the variation in MFT holes out there, I think I have a real problem here.

This is what I was referring to in my previous post when I said:

"I think a bigger diameter dog that also uses the table top for stability could be an advantage. It might mean checking the table for defects by running your hand over it before using a hole. Any defects could quickly be remedied with a light sanding. You could also put a thread in the bottom of the dog and have a bolt and washer which could be inserted easily from underneath to really lock the dog into position."

I don't think it is a problem at all. I will be having some made this side of the pond soon and intend to have a threaded rod sticking out of the bottom of the dogs to enable me to quickly attach a nut and washer. Hole size will always be a moving target so something close to an interference fit was never going to solve this problem.

My dogs might also have a constant diameter above the bench top as I want to be able to quickly check their alignment using a square.

My German rail dogs and Festool MFT top also arrived a few days ago. I've had a quick play but will be spending the whole day in the garage tomorrow trying them out and starting on building a design for a simple modular base to support the MFT top. 
 
RMW said:
Screw/knobs and tee nuts are available.

I am tweaking the design a bit right now. The minimum pin size as designed is about 12mm (1/2"). The max is about 16mm.

I changed the design to enable it to snug up to a pin when pulled in either direction as I have a use in mind that needs the rail to slide in reverse rather that in the direction of the typical cut. I also increased the thickness to 9.525mm or 3/8" to make them more durable. Here are the latest renderings.

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RMW

Is it possible to make room for adding 1/4 inch holes(or what ever would be standard) to the four corners to attach our own jigs?

 
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