MFT Hole Jigs

Grev

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Dec 11, 2016
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Thinking of purchasing one of the dog hole drilling/routing  systems to make my own MFT style tables for a project I'm working on.  Looking for feedback from anyone who's used the Woodpecker, Dominofix, or the UJK Parf system.  I've watched all the videos available online ... just looking for actual users input.  Thanks.
 
TrackTubesGuy said:
Thinking of purchasing one of the dog hole drilling/routing  systems to make my own MFT style tables for a project I'm working on.  Looking for feedback from anyone who's used the Woodpecker, Dominofix, or the UJK Parf system.  I've watched all the videos available online ... just looking for actual users input.  Thanks.

I've used the Parf guide system to drill MFT holes in a 1.5" thick bench top.  The hole pattern is very accurate, the system was easy to use.  I did get more blowout drilling through wood than I would have liked, so I started backing up the wood when drilling, but that would have been an issue with any jig that I used.  In addition to the hole pattern on the top, I also drilled a set of holes along the front that have been quite useful.

 
I have used the Parf guide on several tops.  It's very accurate and works well.  Agree with Harvey on using a backer board on any drilling for cleaner holes.

I've drilled in baltic birch and lightweight MDF and both have worked very well with the Parf guide.

One thing I liked about the Parf guide is the rulers allowing for large layout with a highly accurate and consistent hole grid across a longer distance than I felt I could get from a smaller guide like the Woodpecker or DominoFix guide.
 
HarveyWildes said:
I did get more blowout drilling through wood than I would have liked, so I started backing up the wood when drilling, but that would have been an issue with any jig that I used. 
That (blowout) does not happen if you use a template (such as actual MFT top) and a router with pattern bit.
 
I purchased and have used the Woodpeckers item. Here's a previous thread.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...day-to-order-woodpeckers-onetime-diy-mft-jig-(us)/msg549308/#msg549308

Long story short, hole-to-hole spacing with the Woodpeckers fixture is very, very accurate and repeatable. The real issue is the lack of a consistent hole diameter. That's because of the need to plunge an undersized router bit through the material and then try to clean up the hole. If my arms had the strength and worked in a similar fashion as a CNC tool, the clean up would not be an issue.

So my solution was to machine an aluminum adapter ring, fit it to the Woodpeckers jig and then use a Festool 20mm bit to directly route each hole to size. That worked well.
 
Cheese said:
So my solution was to machine an aluminum adapter ring, fit it to the Woodpeckers jig and then use a Festool 20mm bit to directly route each hole to size. That worked well.

So essentially you're using the same method as the Dominofix MFT jig?  Thanks for the replies .. I do appreciate it.
 
Did you consider the Woodrave jig?  It's probably not as dead accurate as some of the more sophisticated options, but it's simple and more affordable for "the rest of us".  :)
 
I use the Dominofix. I have used it to cut tons of tops and it is perfect. Fast and accurate.
 
here are pics of the last set of tables i did. That is green phenolic, 3/4 inch
 

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TrackTubesGuy said:
So essentially you're using the same method as the Dominofix MFT jig?  Thanks for the replies .. I do appreciate it.

Correct.  If l had known about the hole size issues with the Woodpecker setup, I’d have purchased a different jig system.
 
tallgrass said:
here are pics of the last set of tables i did. That is green phenolic, 3/4 inch

I like the phenolic, is it slippery when you place items on it?
 
I’ve used the Woodpecker guide for a small MFT surface. It works as advertised. Holes are good tight fit for my bench dogs. Holes are accurate.

I would not try it for a large surface. It would be a tiresome piece of work.

 
Birdhunter said:
I would not try it for a large surface. It would be a tiresome piece of work.
Why? Template is the fastest way of all, other than CNC.
 
I’d buy a top from Festool rather than spent the time drilling out all those holes. The alternative would be to hire a CNC shop to make a top.
 
Svar said:
Why? Template is the fastest way of all, other than CNC.

The issue with the Woodpeckers setup is clearing the last bit of material from the hole. The initial plunge is simple but after the plunge you need to move the router around the hole at least 3-4 times. If you aren’t extremely careful you can get some odd shaped holes that then need more attention. I was working with 18mm Baltic birch. It may have been an easier if I was using MDF.

I’d never attempt a 1 1/2” -2” maple top with the Woodpeckers setup.

 
Thanks for the input .. I ended up buying the Dominofix template from The Tool Nut today.  It just seemed like the quickest method ... I'll let you know how it works out.
 
I have CNC. It is not always the fasted way. Dropping the Dominofix where I want it and running the patter is as fast as it gets. I love my CNC machines, however there is a reason I still have "manual machines" In my shop. One of the nice parts of the Dominofix is that it is self validating by by rotating it 90 and seeing if everything lines up. Like anything one tool is not perfect for everything.

As far as slippery, I clamp to the table. I also use RUWI components for cutting and their stand offs are non slip and sacrificial. You should look into them. There is great synergy between RUWI and the MFT..  If you look at the pics I think you can see saw lines . This allows me to lift out sections as I see fit. Also when moving them I just lift out the panels. Making moving the MFTs much easier. Because the tops are in 3 pieces I also have drop in panels for routers, jig saw...ect. Living in the USA NAINA is a pain and this is my work around. Which I love by the way.
 
you will like it. I use the 1400 with the festool copy ring. fit the ring to the jig not the other way around. it should be a slip fit.
 
tallgrass said:
If you look at the pics I think you can see saw lines . This allows me to lift out sections as I see fit.
I assume the sections would be hard to precisely aligned with each other (within fraction of mm) and hence can not be used for accurate positioning of material using dogs. Unless you place all your dogs into one section.
 
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