MFT Rail length

[Mavrik]

The rail of my MFT table is 1080mm.
Which extends a fair way behind the back of the table.
Which means the table can't be close to the wall.

I want to cut the rail so it doesn't extend over the back.
Is there a good reason not to do this?
Why does the rail extend so far in normal configuration?

 

[peter halle]

I see that you have in your signature a MFT 1080.  I don't have that model but would assume that the rail length was selected to also allow the rail to be used if the table was used in the other orientation.  If you never use it rotated 90 degrees then I am sure that you could cut the rail but would be limiting your options later down the road.

Peter

 

[Mavrik]

I don't have that model but would assume that the rail length was selected to also allow the rail to be used if the table was used in the other orientation.

Thank you!

After all these years of using it with the bits sticking over the edge and getting in my way, it never occurred to me why it was so long.
You would have thought that the name of MFT 1080 and the 1080mm length of the rail would have rung a bell.

I feel particularly stupid now ... but simultaneously very excited that I can finally cut it to the proper length.

 

[Wonderwino]

[scared]  I don't think I'd cut down a 1080 rail.  You can un-clamp it from the hinge and move it forward to give you more wall clearance, but keep in mind that the rail must be long enough to engage both the hinge and the guide on the front rail to ensure consistently square cuts.  The rail must be long enough to allow overrun space for your saw entering and leaving the cut.

An alternative would be to buy an 800 rail, which is too short to use the table mechanisms, supplemented by Qwas dogs and Qwas rail dogs to key off the holes for square cuts.  If this works out for you, you could sell you 1080 rail on ebay and get most of its cost back.

 

[Mavrik]

Thanks for the inputs.

I've acquired a surplus of rails over the years.
Have an 800, 1080 and two 1400 rails.
I got these with the various Festools I've bought.
Also had all my Festools stolen once & replaced by insurance.
They didn't steal the rails, so ended up with extra's.

I retired the original 1080 this week.
It had a nice gouge in it from a router long ago when I forgot to clamp the router rails down.  [crying]
I've also recently been getting inconsistent cuts vertically and suspect the old rail may have developed a sideways twist from years of use.

I have just cut down one of the surplus 1400 rails to 1080 to replace it.
But then I wondered if I shouldn't just cut it down further to make it a proper fit.
I was planning on leaving enough length to:
- engage the guide on the front rail
- just enough to engage the hinge

 

[peter halle]

Just make sure that you leave yourself enough rail at the start of the cut and the end of the cut based on when you usually mount your fence and the maximum size work piece.  For instance, if your work piece is the maximum size front to rear of the table and thicker, you will need more rail at the start and end.

Of course if you need a longer rail for those odd situations you could always swap out a longer one then.

Peter

 

[Mavrik]

Just make sure that you leave yourself enough rail at the start of the cut and the end of the cut based on when you usually mount your fence and the maximum size work piece.  For instance, if your work piece is the maximum size front to rear of the table and thicker, you will need more rail at the start and end.

Thanks Peter - good advice.
I'll determine the optimal length by testing with a maximum size piece.

Now that you mention it, I haven't been allowing enough space at the front; even with the previous 1080 rail.
Find myself doing a semi "plunge cut" with the longest pieces.
Which is always an interesting and not always pleasant experience.

 

[tbellemare]

Mavrik:

The typical set up for that rail is only overhanging the hinge by about an inch. How is yours set up?

Tom

 

[Mavrik]

The typical set up for that rail is only overhanging the hinge by about an inch. How is yours set up?

A lot more than an inch Tom!
I'll follow this recommendation.

So ... got the back sorted out.

Now ... what is the typical set up for the rail overhang on the front side?
I've currently got just enough to allow for the plastic hose guiding bracket.

 

[tbellemare]

With an inch or so in back, you get about 6 inches in front on the MFT 1080 if I'm not mistaken. That's assuming you're using a 1080 guide rail.

Tom

 

[skids]

I would echo the advice to move it forward a smidge. You really have enough runout before the edge of the table (hingeside) for the saw ot finish the cut.

Although I wouldn't want it too close to the wall since you want to be able to push the saw out a bit. Maybe experiment a little.

 

[Mavrik]

Thanks for all the advice.
I have kept the length at 1080; left an inch or so beyond the back hinge and the rest at the front.
And now it works perfectly.
No wasted rail at the back; and plenty at the front for starting the cut.
Seems as if my error was to have too much over the back.

 

[peter halle]

Glad you didn't cut the rail.  Now if you had the MFT/3 your minimal rear to wall dimension would have been governed by the angle head for the rail.

Peter