Mft top video

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

Kriss,

How would you go about making a top that is larger than the MFT and could/would you possibly do a video on that?

I know there are a lot of guys out there that make their own MFT style benches and to my knowledge there is no video on how to make the top.

Keith

Technically, with the method I demonstrate there is no limit to the length (long side) of the new MFT top. Just use a longer piece of material, and keep shifting it over! The only limit is on the width (short side), which must fit inside the long side of an official MFT such that you can use the MFT's guide rail mechanism.

You should be able to make a pretty large top this way. Assuming the largest MDF sheet you can find is 4' x 8', you can make a top as large as 8' x ~3.25'

Seems simple enough. Thank you.

Again, thanks for making the video. It really helps people like myself that are visual learners!

Keith

I also should thank you, Keith, for asking that question. My initial thought was "no, you can't make a larger top", but you got me thinking that it would in fact be possible.

When I figure out how to bring home a full size sheet of MDF, I'll make a video [smile].

 

[mprzybylski]

Thanks Richard for the link. Now my question, is the M5 dia. the 5mm and also what length would you get?

Rusty

Hi Rusty. I think the length can vary. I assume the bottom hole is < 18mm, it looked like the top holes were plunged clear thru. Perhaps 25mm would work - maybe 15 into the bottom and 10 into the top?

RMW

Hey guys,

To hopefully clear some confusion, I actually used standard 5mm diameter shelf pegs from Home Depot. The fit was quite snug, so I don't think any precision stuff is required here.

This is the exact product I got: 5mm Zinc Shelf Support

That link is Canadian, but I'm sure you can find something in your area. For example, Lee Valley has something very similar that I'm sure would work just as well: Economy Shelf Supports

The length of this specific shelf support is 8mm on each side. It's true I plunged the 5mm bit straight through on both top and bottom workpieces, but that's just because I was lazy to set the router's depth stop.

Don't overthink this [smile]

Kriss

Really don't mean to beat a dead horse but the pins you linked to, does the little lip in the middle not slightly skew the top material that is being drilled into? Or is it not enough to be of any concern and I'm being overly anal about this?

 

[weekendwarrior]

Great job, Kriss!  Really got me thinking, and your other videos are great, too.  Some thoughts...

I haven't removed my MFT/3's top, yet- does the frame stay square on its own without a top installed?  I see you squared the holey rail lengthwise to the MFT/3 top using Qwas dogs: will that squareness hold true once the top is removed?

Are you using parallel guides to ensure secondary cuts are true to the first?

Why not just put some pin holes in your original MFT/3 top and use that as the template?

Steve

 

[rmwarren]

Great job, Kriss!  Really got me thinking, and your other videos are great, too.  Some thoughts...

I haven't removed my MFT/3's top, yet- does the frame stay square on its own without a top installed?  I see you squared the holey rail lengthwise to the MFT/3 top using Qwas dogs: will that squareness hold true once the top is removed?

Are you using parallel guides to ensure secondary cuts are true to the first?

Why not just put some pin holes in your original MFT/3 top and use that as the template?

Steve

Steve, that last suggestion is a great one, assuming you are ready to discard he old top since you would be plunging into it.

Just align the guide rail with dogs and plunge the first pin holes, then shift the rail 90 degrees and follow Kriss' method.

Great idea.

RMW

 

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

Thanks Richard for the link. Now my question, is the M5 dia. the 5mm and also what length would you get?

Rusty

Hi Rusty. I think the length can vary. I assume the bottom hole is < 18mm, it looked like the top holes were plunged clear thru. Perhaps 25mm would work - maybe 15 into the bottom and 10 into the top?

RMW

Hey guys,

To hopefully clear some confusion, I actually used standard 5mm diameter shelf pegs from Home Depot. The fit was quite snug, so I don't think any precision stuff is required here.

This is the exact product I got: 5mm Zinc Shelf Support

That link is Canadian, but I'm sure you can find something in your area. For example, Lee Valley has something very similar that I'm sure would work just as well: Economy Shelf Supports

The length of this specific shelf support is 8mm on each side. It's true I plunged the 5mm bit straight through on both top and bottom workpieces, but that's just because I was lazy to set the router's depth stop.

Don't overthink this [smile]

Kriss

Really don't mean to beat a dead horse but the pins you linked to, does the little lip in the middle not slightly skew the top material that is being drilled into? Or is it not enough to be of any concern and I'm being overly anal about this?

I actually did drill a little countersink relief hole for that lip in the middle. Forgot to roll the camera during that part, so it didn't make it in the video.

 

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

Great job, Kriss!  Really got me thinking, and your other videos are great, too.  Some thoughts...

I haven't removed my MFT/3's top, yet- does the frame stay square on its own without a top installed?  I see you squared the holey rail lengthwise to the MFT/3 top using Qwas dogs: will that squareness hold true once the top is removed?

Are you using parallel guides to ensure secondary cuts are true to the first?

Why not just put some pin holes in your original MFT/3 top and use that as the template?

Steve

Hey Steve,

1. Yes. The MFT/3 frame stays square without a top installed.

2. I checked for square of the holey rail after installing the 5mm pin hole top, and it was spot on. Qwas dog alignment of the rail worked for me.

3. No, the parallel guides are only good to a max of ~670mm. They're not long enough for the MFT/3 top (1102mm x 718mm). I used my Woodpeckers T-Sqaure to layout the cuts. There's also the option to trace out the shape of your original MFT/3 top.

4. Pin holes into the original MFT/3 top will work just fine, but understand that you will doing a fair bit of damage. I chose to preserve my original top.

 

[weekendwarrior]

I also liked the use of your systainer stack on wheels to catch the cutoff material.  First time I personally saw that in a video.

What did you use to match the MFT/3 height?

 

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

I also liked the use of your systainer stack on wheels to catch the cutoff material.  First time I personally saw that in a video.

What did you use to match the MFT/3 height?

That stack is actually 1/2" below the height of the MFT/3, but I add a piece of 1/2" MDF on top to match the height. This protects me from cutting into the top Systainer [scared]

My stack consists of 1x SYS-3 and 5x SYS-1's on a SYS-Cart, but any height equivalent of 7x SYS-1's will work.

 

[SMJoinery]

Hi Kriss

Nicely done young man and welcome to the FOG.
I have a question on your technique and wondered if you have had further thoughts on how to further improve / simplify the process even further now you've done a few?

You certainly got me thinking about the process.
When you did the final checks at the end you placed a few dogs in the holes to show how they lined up.
I don't have the LR32 system but wondered that if you can use the LR32 system with the holy rail on the MFT3 drop down. Then using the existing top line up the holy rail so every 3rd hole corresponds. Then using the dogs reference the length of the new top, plunge a set of holes, change dog position. Slide new top along and repeat?
I appreciate that perhaps the size would be an issue unless the guide rail and MFT3 accessories can be set on short side of table? (I only have basic mft3 tables without hardware).
Please don't mistake this as an "I know better post"....I don't!, it's your superb post that made me try and get my head around what I thought after viewing it.
Best regards
Scott
Ps. Love the box joint jig.
Keep them coming.

 

[FastEasySmartTOOL]

Hi Kriss

Nicely done young man and welcome to the FOG.
I have a question on your technique and wondered if you have had further thoughts on how to further improve / simplify the process even further now you've done a few?

You certainly got me thinking about the process.
When you did the final checks at the end you placed a few dogs in the holes to show how they lined up.
I don't have the LR32 system but wondered that if you can use the LR32 system with the holy rail on the MFT3 drop down. Then using the existing top line up the holy rail so every 3rd hole corresponds. Then using the dogs reference the length of the new top, plunge a set of holes, change dog position. Slide new top along and repeat?
I appreciate that perhaps the size would be an issue unless the guide rail and MFT3 accessories can be set on short side of table? (I only have basic mft3 tables without hardware).
Please don't mistake this as an "I know better post"....I don't!, it's your superb post that made me try and get my head around what I thought after viewing it.
Best regards
Scott
Ps. Love the box joint jig.
Keep them coming.

I'd advise being cautious if using the hole spacing of an official MFT/3 for one axis, and the holy rail for the other axis.

I found that there is a slight mismatch between the official MFT/3 hole spacing and the LR32 rail hole spacing. It's VERY slight, which is why the dogs still line up through both surfaces, but it's there. You should be able to spot it by laying an LR32 rail on the MFT/3 and trying to line up the holes.

Ultimately, it doesn't matter if the overall hole spacing is 95.9mm or 96.1mm, but it would matter if the vertical spacing and horizontal spacing is different and you can't get a precise 45° angle.

After you've made your first custom MFT top that is based on the LR32 hole spacing, the process you describe will definitely work! [smile]

 

[SMJoinery]

Hi Kriss.
Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
I wasn't aware about the variance (don't have the LR32 system) and got to say I'm a bit surprised?
I also now understand why your first reference is with the 5mm pins and not your existing mft.
I absolutely wouldn't mind the hole spacing varied from a "32 grid" but the accuracy of the 90 and 45 degree is critical.
Merry Xmas.
Scott