MFT3 squaring best practices?

sansbury

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Joined
Feb 15, 2025
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I finally got my MFT set up this past weekend and I’m having less than great results getting consistently square cuts.

I initially set it up using the Sedge method as follows:

1. Pushed both track brackets against the stops as they came out of the box
2. Locked down brackets and laid track down across table
3. Loosened the two Allen screws on the protractor and aligned the guide rail using an 8x12 square
4. Locked down guide rail and tightened Allen screws
5. Rechecked squareness
6. raised track to working height to make a test cut

What I am seeing right now are two things:

- When I change the height of the track and relock the brackets, I seem to lose squareness. Is this to be expected?

- Even if I resquare the track at the working height, I am getting deviations of up to 1/16” over longer cuts. I think I’m being careful to make sure the track is engaging the alignment pin and that I’m lining the workpiece up against the guide rail, but maybe I need to be more so?

I’m not getting complete garbage results and have been able to get some good cuts but it’s just not as consistent as I hoped.

Is the point of this mainly to help you whip out panels for cabinet bodies and 1/16” over two feet is good enough for that? Or can I improve my technique?
 
3. Loosened the two Allen screws on the protractor and aligned the guide rail using an 8x12 square
I had the same challenges when using a 12” square. I was off but just barely. I switched to a much larger Woodpeckers square. I then added a “Slop Stop” to the underside of the rail. For me the larger square solved the initial issue and the Slop Stop guides the rail onto the pin in a consistent location. These two really helped me get repeatable 90 degree cuts.
 
I put a tiny piece of Gorilla tape on the "pin" on the front bracket. This takes out the slop caused by the pin being just a little narrower than the slot on the underside of the rail.

I use a large Woodpeckers square to check for squareness.

I have had to adjust things several times, sometimes I think because I heat my garage (shop) only when I am working in it and the changes in temperature cause unequal expansion and contraction in the various components.

I had some good results by adjusting the position of the hinge bracket so that the rail drops down on the front bracket without racking. Before that, the rail would be pulled over 1/16" or so when dropping down on the pin.

Lastly, I tend to make adjustments by moving the front bracket (and once I moved the hinge bracket) more than moving the fence. It is easier and faster. Once the bracket is in the right location, I move the stop into position.
 
I never seemed to have the issues that others have had, but I still wanted to try out the TSO Rail Hinges and they are so much more precise and are designed to deal with these kinds of situations.

 
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