MFTC portable workshop

[Scorpion]

Thought I'd share some progress pics - i didn't like how the Systainer "drawer" bottoms were turing out with drilling holes and using the Carvex so I made a template so I could route them instead.

Carvex was still used to complete the center cutout

It turned out to be many times faster and easily worked into the workflow.

The fit ended up snug (the feet actually just barely interfere enough I ever so slightly push it on.

I precut spacers so mounting the slides requires no thought.  Have spacers for the 1, 2, and 4 so far.

Drawer front is held on with a domino and glue.

Attached the slides and locked in place.

Assembled the second box

And added the drawers as well.  Wheels and feet are next.

 

[irishman]

Curious if anyone has adapted this system to use the SYS-Midi boxes?  Would be slightly wider, but by my estimation it would still fit through a standard doorway. 

Interested to hear.

 

[bub254]

Im wondering if i ordered the wrong plans.  I ordered the imperial version but i plan to use 12mm and 19mm baltic birch plywood, anyone know if the cut list will be off?  And for anyone thats made their own top, what 20mm bit did you use?  Thanks.

 

[John Beauchamp]

bub254  I used a 20mm  Woodriver bit from Woodcraft. I used my mft top for a jig and drilled down thru.  Tims plans are spot on if you use the exact same materials he did. I ran into three problem areas where my materials were different than his.  His t- track was 3/8 deep so it fit a groove in the 1/2 material used for the top outside. my t-tracks were deeper so it cut all the way thru the 1/2.  My wheels were put on with carriage bolts which interfered with the bottom drawer.
My top pivot bolts interfered with putting the lower shelf in the frame for transport. Hope this helps   

 

[bub254]

Thanks, I figured he adjusted.the.cutting dimensions for 12mm vs 12.7 For half inch and such but that would probably result in some odd measurements.  cant wait to build this.  The woodriver bit was a router or drill bit?

 

[Timtool]

In the US version i used 12,7mm instead of 12, and 19 instead of 18. it's difficult to make this universal, in Germany by example i think they use 19mm where in other countries it's 18mm.

I would just suggest to keep the exterior dimensions of the main box right on plan, and from there on it's easier to eventually adapt some dimensions

 

[Neal W]

I have made some progress on mine recently. 

Pics...

 

[bub254]

Hey John, did you find that cutting all the way through 1/2" ply reduced the stability of the top or does it feel pretty solid?  I'm inclined to think if its glued properly and with the mdf screwed on it should be stable enough.

 

[John Beauchamp]

bub254-  When I found out it was going to cut all the way thru I changed it and just went 3/8 deep and left the t-track proud. I also made another top piece using different material but haven't put it on yet. I kind of figured I would build one  and find out all the problems then build another that fixed everything. I will probably give the first one away.

 

[bub254]

Anybody find a t track that was only 10mm deep?  Everything I've seen is at least half inch.

Edit: I think I did.  Just need clarification on the wall thickness, but it looks like the festool quick clamps will fit.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N72KSS?colid=RFL5UICVOTJ9&coliid=IDS0VR2J03B6H&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

It seems like a reasonable price too.  About $32 shipped for an 8 ft and a 4ft track.

 

[bub254]

Clamps fit if you just touch them at the 90 With a grinder for one second.  Nice and smooth with no slop.  Shipping was not free but $17 ouch.  I imagine it would be the same for quite a bit a of track.  Overall im happy.

 

[hitandruntz]

I recently finished my MFTC and wanted to share the pictures. Its built with baltic birch plywood and finished with the festool interior heavy oil.

 

[hitandruntz]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[hitandruntz]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

 

[Neal W]

Here is mine.

Made a mistake when cutting the top. Apparently I couldn't read the numbers on my tape and cut the top 100mm too short so I patched in a piece.  And apparently my skills of drilling a 90 degree hole through a layer of plywood and a 2x4 also leave a lot to be desired, as the wheels "toe-out" a bit.  It works, that's the main thing, and it is a huge improvement over what I used to use.

 

[atomgewicht]

What kind of plywood is possible regarding the tolerances? Can i take cheap softwood plywood (pine, spruce) or is it neceassary to use classic birch or beech plywood?

 

[mike_aa]

[member=18149]HausWorks[/member]
I somehow missed seeing this earlier.  Nice job on the MFTC!  Thanks for sharing all the photos.

Where did you find the extra thick rubber tipped leg adjusters?

[member=57644]atomgewicht[/member]
[welcome] to the FOG!

I'm probably not the best person to answer your question since I haven't built one yet.  But when I do, I plan on using one of the birch or maple plys or Baltic Birch for looks and strength.

Mike A.

 

[bertv]

What kind of plywood is possible regarding the tolerances? Can i take cheap softwood plywood (pine, spruce) or is it neceassary to use classic birch or beech plywood?

You are going to spend a fair amount of time building this, so you should consider the work / material cost ratio… My feeling is that you will regret using ‘cheap’ plywood once you finish. (Except if you are doing this as a learning project where the first, or even second build will be prototypes.)

 

[hitandruntz]

Thanks [member=30413]mike_aa[/member].  those adjustable feet are home made from 1/2" bolts and threaded rod couplers. The pads are 2 layers of 3/4 Baltic birch that I machined to accept the 1/2" bolt head.

 

[bryan1982]

Well its finally starting to look like a mftc with stair walking wheels

Still a bit more to do

Cheers

Bryan