I thought the miter mechanism was terrible to operate, cumbersome to say the least.
The miter mechanism takes a little getting used to. Once I got the hang of it, it is now second nature. Not sure how it hurt your thumb.
The bevel adjustment is not as good as the Kapex, but it is (IMHO) better than most other saws I have tried (Bosch,Ridgid, Makita, Hitachi, and Dewalt). I use the bevel primarily for scarf joints and occasionally for cutting crown on the flat. For me, the miter table is much more important. I really like the fact that it will hold position without having to hold the weight of the head.
Put me in the group that thinks that, as far a accuracy is concerned, a 10" saw is superior, mainly do to blade deflection. But the marginal accuracy lost compared to the capacity gained is an easy choice for me. I put a stabilizer on my blade, and that has leveled the field, without impacting capacity significantly.
I spent a lot of time comparing saws and reviews before I bought the Milwaukee. I upgraded from an older Makita 1013 because I kept running into capacity issues. The Milwaukee embodied most of my favorite features from the other saws available, and some unique ones of its own. That would not be the case for everyone. I guess that is why everyone makes theirs a little different. I would have loved to have bought a Kapex initially, but bought right in the thick of the spring-plate issues. My initial plan was to buy the Milwaukee and a Sawhelper setup for the same price as the Kapex. Since Sawhelper has disrupted production, I am still struggling to build a suitable equivalent.
I originally thought the digital readout was just a marketing gimmick, but it really works, and works very well. When combines with a digital angle finder, it makes trim work extremely accurate.