Minimum length for rail for 8' sheets?

Corwin does have a point. The factory edges on the guide rails are not really good enough to press tight together anyway. Flipping around to the factory side, if you even have to, then leaving a gap sounds good to me..  :)
 
Back in January 2006 when I purchased my first Festools (TS55 and CT22) I paid attention to the advice of my dealer, Jesse Berragan of Eagle Tool, Los Angeles.

We had known each other many years. He knew the first thing I do when breaking down a sheet of plywood is to make a clean-up cut along one long edge. He also knew I did not own a truck and that my "shop" was in my second-floor condo. Although Jesse mentioned the benefits of a 2700mm or 3000mm guide rail, his advice was that neither was practical for me at that time.

What he did recommend was that I buy 2 extra 1400mm rails and use the coupling bars in the accessory kit to connect those. This way, I still had a single 1400mm rail for cross grain cuts without disassembling my long rail. Yet when I needed to go on location, I had no trouble transporting the 1400mm rails. When the time came to connect them, the third rail served as the straight edge.

A few weeks after I showed my TS55 and CT22 to a good friend, he bought his own TS55 and a CT33, plus one extra rail. For years we would work together building projects. Since he had turned his 2 car garage into a shop, he had space to store a long rail. I bought a 3000mm rail which I kept there. In 2009 I found that in my condo I could use a 2700mm rail so long as I was careful. I ordered that to be delivered.

When I bought my TS75 it came with a 1900mm rail. With a TS75 to rip 8' material you really need the 3000mm rail, or you need to couple a 1900mm and 1400mm rail.

Since I built my shop in 2010, all my rails are kept there. For me working on-site is now the exception. For those times, I keep 3x1400mm rails together. Yes, my new truck can even transport our 5000mm rail, but my experience is it is easier on most sites to put together a couple of rails rather than lug and maneuver a long one.
 
Upscale said:
Alan m said:
3 cut the rail and join back together and buy another rail for crosscutting..

??? ???
Why would you have to buy another rail for cross cutting? You could cut the existing rail to a suitable length for cross cutting and just leave the other piece at whatever length it happens to be.

When you use the joining bars to connect rails, they don't have to remain that way. You'd simply connect or disconnect them as needed.

i know how the rail conectors work. they are a pain to connect and disconnect and re connect over and over each day. this is why i was sayng to get 3 as you can conect 2 and use the other for crosscutting
 
Thought I would report back, the 3m rail paid for itself on various door hanging jobs, but have decided to sell it & buy a couple of 1400s with connectors.
Having a long and short rail set up was really useful for hanging doors. So if anyone local wants one!
 
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