Mission style cocktail table

baycal94566 said:
Making a quadralinear leg is explained in the beginning of "more shop drawings for craftsman style furniture" By bob Lang It is a way of cutting the pieces so that the rays all show on the outside and don't appear odd. This piece is 3 pieces of 5/4 stock planed and laminated. With quartered White oak quadralinear is preferred. Thanks jbasen I am planning on using that technique for builds with the white.

Correct.  There is a 2nd technique for making a quadralinear leg.  You take 4 pieces of QSWO, the width of each piece is the width of the side of the leg.  Then you use a lock miter bit on a router table on the edges of each piece so they lock together to form a box. I used this technique when I built a prairie style sofa.
 
jbasen said:
baycal94566 said:
Making a quadralinear leg is explained in the beginning of "more shop drawings for craftsman style furniture" By bob Lang It is a way of cutting the pieces so that the rays all show on the outside and don't appear odd. This piece is 3 pieces of 5/4 stock planed and laminated. With quartered White oak quadralinear is preferred. Thanks jbasen I am planning on using that technique for builds with the white.

Correct.  There is a 2nd technique for making a quadralinear leg.  You take 4 pieces of QSWO, the width of each piece is the width of the side of the leg.  Then you use a lock miter bit on a router table on the edges of each piece so they lock together to form a box. I used this technique when I built a prairie style sofa.

I was thinking in terms of ripping each side to 45º bevel.  I have done that on a couple of projects when I had a table saw and was doing porch columns. They were going to be painted, but customer (friend) wanted them to look like solid wood.  They did not want to see any cracks between boards along the joints as wood shrank and paint followed the wood. One day, I will give a try with my TS55 REQ for a project where using only clear finishes.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
jbasen said:
baycal94566 said:
Making a quadralinear leg is explained in the beginning of "more shop drawings for craftsman style furniture" By bob Lang It is a way of cutting the pieces so that the rays all show on the outside and don't appear odd. This piece is 3 pieces of 5/4 stock planed and laminated. With quartered White oak quadralinear is preferred. Thanks jbasen I am planning on using that technique for builds with the white.

Correct.  There is a 2nd technique for making a quadralinear leg.  You take 4 pieces of QSWO, the width of each piece is the width of the side of the leg.  Then you use a lock miter bit on a router table on the edges of each piece so they lock together to form a box. I used this technique when I built a prairie style sofa.

I was thinking in terms of ripping each side to 45º bevel.  I have done that on a couple of projects when I had a table saw and was doing porch columns. They were going to be painted, but customer (friend) wanted them to look like solid wood.  They did not want to see any cracks between boards along the joints as wood shrank and paint followed the wood. One day, I will give a try with my TS55 REQ for a project where using only clear finishes.
Tinker

If that works for you it will definitely give the desired effect.  The hard part, as I see it, is gluing it up.  you have all the 45 degree angles sliding against each other with slippery glue.  Using the lock miter bit keeps that from happening.  I will admit that all the routing with the lock miter bit is a pain.  The easier technique is the one described by baycal94566 though it is my belief that the lock miter is more historically accurate.  If you decide to go down the lock miter path I would give it a try on some cheap wood first to get your technique down.

Good luck!
 
Hey jbasen just noticed ur up in Idaho. I was over in Driggs for about 5 years. Building log homes over in Jackson hole.
 
baycal94566 said:
Hey jbasen just noticed ur up in Idaho. I was over in Driggs for about 5 years. Building log homes over in Jackson hole.

Cool.  Yes I'm up in Sun Valley where I get to hobnob with the rich and infamous [wink] and have either a 1 1/2 hour or 3 hour drive to get to a Festool Dealer  [sad].  On the bright side I've already skied 18 days this season and will be heading back to the mountain this afternoon after getting up early and spending the morning working [thumbs up]

The Diggs area in Western Idaho and getting into Jackson and the Grand Tetons is really beautiful.
 
Beautiful table -- thanks for sharing.  This gives me some inspiration for some Mission type furniture I was going to build myself.
 
>>>If that works for you it will definitely give the desired effect.  The hard part, as I see it, is gluing it up.  you have all the 45 degree angles sliding against each other with slippery glue.  Using the lock miter bit keeps that from happening.  I will admit that all the routing with the lock miter bit is a pain.  The easier technique is the one described by baycal94566 though it is my belief that the lock miter is more historically accurate.  If you decide to go down the lock miter path I would give it a try on some cheap wood first to get your technique down.
 
Yes beautiful my view everyday while I worked out there...[attachimg=1]
 

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So please excuse the stupid question, but is the 1/4" ply in the pictures not related to this project?  It all appears to be solid wood....
 
i remember Woodsmith Magazine doing an Arts and Crafts coffee table and instead of using the lock mitre for the legs they glued 2 quarter sawn pieces together and then put 2 more 1/4 inch thick "veneers" of quarter sawn oak on the 2 faces that did not show quarter sawn grain patterns. looked much simpler than the lock mitre joint.
 
lad said:
i remember Woodsmith Magazine doing an Arts and Crafts coffee table and instead of using the lock mitre for the legs they glued 2 quarter sawn pieces together and then put 2 more 1/4 inch thick "veneers" of quarter sawn oak on the 2 faces that did not show quarter sawn grain patterns. looked much simpler than the lock mitre joint.

I believe that is the technique that baycal94566 was describing. 

I've used both techniques on different pieces of furniture I've build and they both produce excellent results.  As I said, it is my belief that using the lock miter joint is more historically accurate for a Stickley piece.  However, I agree it is not as simple to build as the technique you mention above. 
 
Haha.. Yes the 1/4 " ply is aromatic cedar. It's to line the floor of an elevated dog bed that I am prototyping.

Regards,
J.D. Goldberg
 
Thanks for the clarification,  I was pretty sure that was the case.  This table looks amazing.  Very nice work.
 
That's actually how Gustav actually did his original pieces. With veneer pieces. But he found over time the veneer would crack. Some of his first originals are done that way though.
 
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