Miter fold pics as requested

The 2nd photo of the banded desk is most interesting to me...pretty slick.

On the 4th photo, do you actually cut into part of the veneer? If so, how deep?

Nice work...(y)
 
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The 2nd photo of the banded desk is most interesting to me...pretty slick.

On the 4th photo, do you actually cut into part of the veneer? If so, how deep?

Nice work...(y)
Yes, they are cut completely through, all separate pieces. The pieces are adding to the total length. Often the material is just not long enough to do it from a single piece. Those octagonal boxes are within just a fraction of 48" long and 24" wide. That entire thing was done as an 8 piece wrap, all in one go. It wraps around and inner frame, so the walls are pocket screwed to the ribs, from the inside.
The little column, in the last pic, was just a test, to be sure my angle was set right. Thus the blue tape. I never trust blue tape for miterfolds.

That band, on the desk, was done as a completely different layer. It was inset into notches, cut into the ribs. The outer panels were miterfolded and pre glued, then applied to the frame as a unit.
 
I’ve been using miter-fold joinery on plywood only. On 3/4” thick plywood, the joint has 3/8” as face grain to face grain, and 3/8” as face grain to end grain. So not as weak a joint as you might expect.

I typically cut gusset for the interior of all the joints. I cut that from solid wood stock and end up with 3/4” x 3/4” x 1.00 (approx.). If the laminations are glued solidly, this makes for a reasonably robust joint.

If the joint ends up slightly open on the outside, then rubbing a round shaft of a screw driver over the length will generally close it iup. I use clear packing tape rather than masking tape as it does not leave any paper residue if the glue seeps through.

I don’t use this joint for situations where there will be heavy stresses. But for coffee tables and end tables, it has worked fine.
 
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