miter lock bits

[HowardH]

I have a 2200 mounted in a CMS-GE and want to start using a miter lock bit.  I couldn't find one on Festool's website.  Do they make one?  If not, which one from another manufacturer is recommended?  I suppose I'll also need to get a 1/4" collet as well.  I only have the 8mm and 1/2" versions. 

 

[jeffinsgf]

Howard,

I've used the Whiteside lock miter. It is available in 1/2" shank, and I would highly recommend you stick with that for a lock miter (lots of stress taking a full depth cut).

Don't know if you've used a lock miter before, but they can be tricky. Once you've gone by the cutter the edge landing on your outfeed fence is a knife edge. It can be a bit fragile and if it crushes, the material will start drifting too deep into the cutter.

I wrote an article in the latest issue of our catalog on making a small lidded box using lock miter corners. It has a couple simple tricks on supporting the edge and setting up the cuts you might find useful. The article starts on page 48. Here's a link to request a copy or download immediately. 
https://www.woodpeck.com/catalog.html

 

[ProCarpenterRVA]

I've been really happy with the Freud and Whiteside lock miter bits. Once you get the bit dialed in on the router table you can produce some excellent quality joints. I do recall that Whiteside makes the bit which I bought for the work you do with 4/4 stock, and a larger one is available for your more robust stock. I had good results from a Porter Cable 2-1/4 horse router set for 16,500 rpm.

Wear eye protection for this bit, they can throw nasty chips.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Kevin D.]

Bosch makes one....
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/carbide-tipped-lock-miter-bit-84508m-28065-p/

Lee Valley as well....
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...essories/router-bits/30119-45-lock-miter-bits

You do know that this is one of the most finicky types of joints to execute properly for fit I assume?  Everything has to be spot on for things to line up right.

Infinity make a guide thingy that helps people with setting up right.  Pricey, but well spoken of by many I've read over the years for its intended purpose.
https://www.infinitytools.com/lock-miter-master-jigs

 

[hdv]

I've been using the CMT bit for some time now. Works quite well.

See this page

 

[Eorlingur]

I have a 2200 mounted in a CMS-GE and want to start using a miter lock bit.  I couldn't find one on Festool's website.  Do they make one?  If not, which one from another manufacturer is recommended?  I suppose I'll also need to get a 1/4" collet as well.  I only have the 8mm and 1/2" versions.

Any bit from any reputable source should be ok. I have two in different sizes, one from Kelin Sistemi and one from cobalt. They both work fine. I struggled quite a bit with getting good results from either of them until I got the jessem clear cut stock guides. they fit the CMS fence perfectly and really helps with the alignment of the material. It is paramount that the pressure on the stock is perfectly even during all the cuts if you want good results.

As far as setting up the bit and the fence, I always mill a few extra pieces of scrap wood to the same thickness as my main stock and use them to set up the bit. If you have the center of the material thickness clearly marked, you can set up everything in a couple of passes.

I build birdhouses of the scraps after I am done with the main project. The birdhouses in my neighbourhood look pretty dope with wrap around grain and seamless joinery. =)

 

[HowardH]

I noticed that the Lee Valley version states on their set up guide to mark the exact middle of the board and start there.  I need to get one of those contraptions that automatically can mark the middle of the board.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Got a combination square? Set it to roughly center, mark from both sides of the board...there's center.

 

[HowardH]

that was too easy...  [big grin]

 

[hdv]

There is a nice trick to protect the sharp edge of the routed profile. Use double-sided tape to stick a straight and smooth piece of wood to your work piece. Make sure it is  flush with the edge of your workpiece. This will protect the workpiece after it has passed the router bit and prevents compressing the sharp edge.

 

[jeffinsgf]

HDV, that's the gist of the article I linked.

 

[HowardH]

your video showed that.  I thought initially it was doing the set up but it's actually for the intended workpiece. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

Bosch makes one....
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/carbide-tipped-lock-miter-bit-84508m-28065-p/

Lee Valley as well....
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...essories/router-bits/30119-45-lock-miter-bits

You do know that this is one of the most finicky types of joints to execute properly for fit I assume?  Everything has to be spot on for things to line up right.

Infinity make a guide thingy that helps people with setting up right.  Pricey, but well spoken of by many I've read over the years for its intended purpose.
https://www.infinitytools.com/lock-miter-master-jigs

Infinity also has this $10 piece of pre-milled HDPE that can be used to set the bit height.

It really helps to have such a jig until you well understand what needs to be done. Took me a while.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Mark Sommerfeld (Kreg’s brother) also has a jig for setting bit height. This one suits several different bit he sells. His larger lock miter bit.

 

[HowardH]

Mark Sommerfeld (Kreg’s brother) also has a jig for setting bit height. This one suits several different bit he sells. His larger lock miter bit.

ha!  Another one of those tools that was hiding out in a drawer I already have!  I really should do an inventory one of these days...

 

[hdv]

Ah, OK. Sorry, I hadn't followed the link, so I didn't notice.

 

[Sparktrician]

#3362 Lock Miter Router Bit 2" D for 1/2" to 3/4" Stock Thickness
Woodcraft #: 812508
$85.10

#3360 Lock Miter Router Bit 3-1/2" D for 1/2" to 1-1/4" Stock
Woodcraft #: 24F92
$115.35

(Prices may not be current...)  [smile]

Oh, Infinity Tools has a pair of setup gauges. 

One other thing, make yourself a set of setup blocks for the exact thickness of the material you're using, once you get the bits adjusted right.  18mm will work differently compared to 19mm thickness, so get it right and save the setup blocks! 

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
I use a freeborn cutter on my shaper,  it allows both surfaces to be run on the flat.  After the profile is cut on the shaper I run it flat on my table saw with a 1/4 dado to make the corresponding piece.  I’ve tried a router bit but it’s a pain in the butt to set up the bit/fence and running the piece against the fence isn’t always easy especially if it’s long.  If I had to do it with a router I would get a custom router bit made to this profile. 

 

[blues]

45 deg cut with your track saw and a quick series of dominos.. would that not work? Once fitted the edge should look identical. I have used this technique many times resulting in very strong joint, with less set up time, and a beautiful edge. I think these are some solid advantages being on the festool platform. Sorry I am assuming you have a track saw and a domino. Surely the bit is a lot cheaper.

Is there any other advantage with the lock miter joint?

 

[tjbnwi]

Get the Infinity with the magnetic set up jig. It is the set up I have for router work.

99.999999999% of are lock miters are now run on the shaper with the Freeborn head mentioned above. One thing about the Freeborn, one of the machined pieces needs to be run through a table saw with a 1/4" grooving bit.

Top picture is the Infinity, bottom the Freeborn Joint.

Just for fun........


Tom