Miter saw length stops

[smorgasbord]

New video from The Wood Whisperer out today. Haven't finished it, but did catch this part:

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Note that despite his fancy, recessed into the miter saw station's top, Woodpecker's stop system, he's got a block clamped in the standard Festool clamp. Because the miter saw itself has width and the closest the Woodpecker's stop can get is limited to being just outside that.

Same would be true for fence-mounted stop systems, as the miter saw's stock fence prevents a fence-mounted stop from gettin close enough.

Yeah, what he did is what most of us would do. But it's kind of a bummer. Another solution is to use a known size spacer board, whose length you mentally add to the stop block setting. A 20cm to 25cm long board might be long enough for most.

I just had to cut some pretty short pieces yesterday, and was able to do so directly with this setup:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...stalled-colliflower-cube/msg707477/#msg707477

The problem with my setup is if I need to cut bevel angles. Making the zero-clearance insert wide enough to accommodate a 45º beveled blade would mean I couldn't cut as short pieces using the stop block. That's a trade-off that works for me; it may not work for others.

 

[Birdhunter]

You also have to let the blade completely stop. Otherwise, it could kick the cutoff at you.

 

[Mini Me]

Another solution is to use a known size spacer board, whose length you mentally add to the stop block setting. A 20cm to 25cm long board might be long enough for most.

Zero can be permanently set if the sliding stop is made that reaches the saw blade as shown in this video

Mitre Saw DRO & Stop

 

[kevinculle]

I made a precise 400mm spacer board for short cuts, just add 400mm to the desired dimension and good to go.

 

[Max Fracas]

I used to have a vertical fence for the Kapex. Worked really well, but I disliked the vertical obstacle it presented to piling things up on the miter saw wings. I switched to a recessed t-track (like the Wood Whisperer) and built some shop-made stop blocks to fit in the t-track. The flat wings and calibrated stop blocks have been great. For cuts under 300 or so mm, I use 100 and 200mm spacer blocks. Works great.

 

[SoonerFan]

I made a precise 400mm spacer board for short cuts, just add 400mm to the desired dimension and good to go.

I did this exact same thing.  When not in use I keep my 400mm block on top of my CT which sits under my Kapex full time.

 

[Packard]

My 45-degree-only miter saw was made the meet the needs of picture framers, whose miters are more demanding of precision than most other industries, as the mouldings are all pre-finished. Because of that, even the most minute impression will stand out as sub-par workmanship.

Other industries add the finish after assembly and that is far more forgiving.

My 45-degree dedicated miter saw has hold down clamps for the molding.  As far as I can recall, all picture framers’ miter saws have these hold downs.  And the hold-down is as close to the blade as is reasonable. 

So, in my opinion, precision stop blocks can only reach their precision potential with those hold-downs. 

I should note that the hold downs are designed to hold the molding against the fence and on the saw’s table. 

So, while I approve of the stop blocks (I use them on my regular chop saw), to reach their full precision capabilities, the hold downs should be added.