Mitered Cabinet Corners?

[woodie]

I'm using teak veneered europly, leaving the plywood edging exposed (hopefully I don't get banned for such blasphemy [wink]).

A friend helped me do the mitered corners in the image below using a large cabinet saw with a scoring blade.  Sadly there are too many zeros behind the price of one of these for it to be added into my tool collection...

[attachthumb=#]

The cabinet above was only 8 inches deep (the exposed edge is 1.5 inches). The next cabinet to be built is going to be 20 inches deep. So my question, are there any other methods or tools that can be used to do this, with repeatability?

I have a TS75 and an assortment of tracks but setting the saw up to make reliable 45 degree bevels seems impossible.  I do have a small worksite table saw, a Bosch 4000, but no way to accurately guide or support a large panel. Is there a way to do this with a router?  I have an OF 1400 but would love to have an excuse to pick up an OF2200  [smile]? The largest chamfer bit I found was only suitable for 1 inch however (Freud 40-118)...

 

[tbellemare]

I have a TS75 and an assortment of tracks but setting the saw up to make reliable 45 degree bevels seems impossible.

Can you elaborate?

Tom

 

[woodie]

I have a TS75 and an assortment of tracks but setting the saw up to make reliable 45 degree bevels seems impossible.

Can you elaborate?

Tom

The saw is on the money for 90 degree cuts but when I change the bevel angle to 45 I get anything but? I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand.  

 

[ginocon]

It is moreless possible to to these miter with a TS75.  You have to designa jig to do the miters on long peices and then cut them to size.
It will take time but the result will be worth. The Jig I have build in the past for something similar was fairly simple:
Place the guiderail on some stock that is the same thicknes of the material to be cut. Exposing the cutting edge with enough room for the piece to be cut to slide underneat. (you will be cutting only the 45° small traingle form the plywood edge. Not the the typical way of cutting bevels with the TS75) By doing this you can do repeatable cuts of 45° with the saw for same thicknes of wood up to the max length of the rail/table you have.
One advice cut the bevels in two or three passes if 18mm or thicker. you will get a cleaner cut. I'll check if I can get a picture of this setup and post it.

good luck.

I'm also dreaming of a martin T75............ [smile]

 

[Jalvis]

I would like to see some pictures of that jig!

Seems like an MFT would help but I dont know for sure. 

I also dont understand why your saw doesnt cut 45 degrees?  Are you clamping the Rail and tuning the saw for 45 degrees?  I use the Mafell MT55 and theres an adjustment screw to dial everything in perfect.  The MT55 also bevels to 47 degrees which can help.

 

[woodie]

I would like to see some pictures of that jig!

Seems like an MFT would help but I dont know for sure. 

I also dont understand why your saw doesnt cut 45 degrees?  Are you clamping the Rail and tuning the saw for 45 degrees?  I use the Mafell MT55 and theres an adjustment screw to dial everything in perfect.  The MT55 also bevels to 47 degrees which can help.

My test cuts were done using an MFT/3 so no clamps for the guide rail. It seems that if I tune the saw for 45 degrees then I'm changing my setup for 90 degrees.  The past few days I've considered buying a Mafell (MT55 or KSP85) but wasn't sure if I'd run into the same challenge with bevels?

 

[mhch]

The saw is on the money for 90 degree cuts but when I change the bevel angle to 45 I get anything but? I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand.  

A device to lock the saw in its fully plunged position would help a lot in various circumstances ... notably setting accurate angles.
Better make sur this device only works when saw is unplugged.

 

[joiner1970]

The saw is on the money for 90 degree cuts but when I change the bevel angle to 45 I get anything but? I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand.  

A device to lock the saw in its fully plunged position would help a lot in various circumstances ... notably setting accurate angles.
Better make sur this device only works when saw is unplugged.

What like the device that's on the saw already ? The plunge lock for when you change the blade

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Joiner 1970 Can you use the plunge lock for changing to blade to make a cut instead of changing the blade?

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Joiner 1970 Can you use the plunge lock for changing to blade to make a cut instead of changing the blade?

No, the FastFix lever also locks the arbor from turning. However, the TS 55 REQ does include a new, second FastFix depth lock that is nearly full depth. It is deeper than the blade changing depth, but still locks the arbor. To activate the deeper one, you need to plunge the saw below 30mm before opening the FastFix lever.

However, if I was trying to set the saw (any saw) to a critical angle, I would still use a cut-and-test (trial and error) method. That even includes setting the subsequent Domino fence to a precise 45 degrees, too. This is because whatever method you use to measure your 45 degrees will have only a 1x accuracy, but your finished joint will have a 2x error.

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

What benefit is the second fast fix depth lock then if that still locks the arbour

No, the FastFix lever also locks the arbor from turning. However, the TS 55 REQ does include a new, second FastFix depth lock that is nearly full depth. It is deeper than the blade changing depth, but still locks the arbor. To activate the deeper one, you need to plunge the saw below 30mm before opening the FastFix lever.

 

[greg mann]

Joiner 1970 Can you use the plunge lock for changing to blade to make a cut instead of changing the blade?

No, the FastFix lever also locks the arbor from turning. However, the TS 55 REQ does include a new, second FastFix depth lock that is nearly full depth. It is deeper than the blade changing depth, but still locks the arbor. To activate the deeper one, you need to plunge the saw below 30mm before opening the FastFix lever.

However, if I was trying to set the saw (any saw) to a critical angle, I would still use a cut-and-test (trial and error) method. That even includes setting the subsequent Domino fence to a precise 45 degrees, too. This is because whatever method you use to measure your 45 degrees will have only a 1x accuracy, but your finished joint will have a 2x error.

Roger Savatterri once opined that, 'Good set-up hygiene requires checking the results of the set-up, not just the set-up.' Words to live by.

 

[greg mann]

What benefit is the second fast fix depth lock then if that still locks the arbour

No, the FastFix lever also locks the arbor from turning. However, the TS 55 REQ does include a new, second FastFix depth lock that is nearly full depth. It is deeper than the blade changing depth, but still locks the arbor. To activate the deeper one, you need to plunge the saw below 30mm before opening the FastFix lever.

The benefit is to keep someone from getting hurt if they are trying to set a precise bevel angle and they haven't unplugged the saw.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

What benefit is the second fast fix depth lock then if that still locks the arbour

It's an added feature, and you can use it any way you wish (including to assist in toe-in setting). The arbor must be locked any time the plunge can be locked, because otherwise it would leave an unguarded blade below the sole plate.

 

[Svar]

Is there a way to do this with a router?  

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25919

 

[Svar]

I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand. 

A device to lock the saw in its fully plunged position would help a lot in various circumstances ... notably setting accurate angles.
Better make sur this device only works when saw is unplugged.

There is such a device!  http://eurekazone.aforumfree.com/t71-the-new-unplunged-ts-75-from-festool

 

[greg mann]

I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand. 

A device to lock the saw in its fully plunged position would help a lot in various circumstances ... notably setting accurate angles.
Better make sur this device only works when saw is unplugged.

There is such a device!  http://eurekazone.aforumfree.com/t71-the-new-unplunged-ts-75-from-festool

Better tie that rope real close to the plug so it needs to be unplugged to use. I gave up a long time ago following any of Dino's  'contributions' but what can possibly be gained by making a plunge saw unable to be retracted? Oh, I forgot, any saw used with the EZ system keeps the blade guard from performing its function, so let's sabotage the Festool too. That way we're even. Both systems become equally unsafe. Give me a break.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Better tie that rope real close to the plug so it needs to be unplugged to use. I gave up a long time ago following any of Dino's  'contributions' but what can possibly be gained by making a plunge saw unable to be retracted? Oh, I forgot, any saw used with the EZ system keeps the blade guard from performing its function, so let's sabotage the Festool too. That way we're even. Both systems become equally unsafe. Give me a break.

I wanted to say the exact same thing, almost sentiment for sentiment, but knew it wouldn't come across as well as yours just did.

 

[peter halle]

Well here is an idea for all the inventive sorts out there:  How about a precision bar / plate that mounts instead of a blade that is longer in one dimension than the diameter of the blade so that when a TS saw is locked in the Fast Fix position and bevelled or set to 90 a precision square (longer) or an architect's adjustable square can be used to used to set the stops or an angle.  Once set the bar could be removed and a blade re inserted.  Of course the myriad of necessary warnings would have to be plastered on all sides.

I know that somewhere I have something similar for my table saw.

Just a thought.

Peter

 

[Svar]

I could flip the saw and try to set the blade at a 45 with a gauge but it's not very easy to do without a 3rd hand. 

A device to lock the saw in its fully plunged position would help a lot in various circumstances ... notably setting accurate angles.
Better make sur this device only works when saw is unplugged.

There is such a device!  http://eurekazone.aforumfree.com/t71-the-new-unplunged-ts-75-from-festool

Better tie that rope real close to the plug so it needs to be unplugged to use. I gave up a long time ago following any of Dino's  'contributions' but what can possibly be gained by making a plunge saw unable to be retracted? Oh, I forgot, any saw used with the EZ system keeps the blade guard from performing its function, so let's sabotage the Festool too. That way we're even. Both systems become equally unsafe. Give me a break.

I sense there is some kind of juvenile rivalry that I don’t care about going on in the track saw world, but I’m pretty sure the OP asked how to set 45 with a gauge. I guess we are left with growing the third hand option.