Modified MFT/3 table

Fin66

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Mar 21, 2014
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Pictures of my extended MFT/3 table, 2 meters wide. Now I just need to plunge the holes with a tempalte.
 

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So you'll use the MFT top as a template?  I'm interested in your results.  Have you done this before?  Will you drill then finish each hole with template bit?  That's a lot of holes, but it's a whole lot cheaper than CNC or LR32(when you don't already have it).  That's the way I'm leaning right now, but have never done anything like that.
 
Nice set up, I wonder why the long extrusions aren't available over here?

Jack
 
I have a LR32 and a 20mm router plunge bit and also some 20mm bench dogs, but I'm still trying to figure out how to do it. The LR32 might be the solution I will opt for.
 
sgt_rjp said:
So you'll use the MFT top as a template?  I'm interested in your results.  Have you done this before?  Will you drill then finish each hole with template bit?  That's a lot of holes, but it's a whole lot cheaper than CNC or LR32(when you don't already have it).  That's the way I'm leaning right now, but have never done anything like that.

That will work, I did something similar when making extension wings for my MFT. Used the MFT top as a template, then used my plunge router with a guide bushing & 1/2" spiral up-cut bit to drill holes and finished the holes with a pattern bit. Just make sure to have a backer board under the work piece to avoid blow-out.
 
@squarecut, so how was it?  I've seen some people recommend that method, but then others say they'll never do it again that way.  Maybe it depends how big a top you do?  What router did you use?  I've got only got one router(makita 1100).  With the price increase looming, trying to decide if I should by an OF1010.  I've bought a bunch of green tools recently(as well as some red ;) and will buy more by the end of the month(more green), but wondering if I can save some money by skipping the router.  I'm sure I can do the mft holes with the Makita, but I'd like to get a smaller router and this might be the excuse I need for the OF1010.
 
One thing to remember is that the OF 1010, despite being a great router, can handle only 1/4" and 8mm shank router bits while the OF 1400 can handle those PLUS 1/2" shank bits.  I'd much rather use the OF 1400 with a 1/2" shank, 20mm diameter bit for this kind of a job. 

 
That's what I'm afraid of.  But, having the 1100, I can't really justify the 1400.  I've seen a lot of posts saying they've done large MFT tops with no trouble with the 1010.  Also, doing it in stages like I would be, I would think it would be okay.
 
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?
 
duburban said:
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table?  Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely.  Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery.  If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother?  After all, it's a sacrificial top.  I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid.  YMMV.

 
duburban said:
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

Using the LR32 and some dogs (like Qwas' rail dogs) will get you very accurate results.  How.much is the CNC job going to cost you?
 
Sparktrician said:
duburban said:
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table?  Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely.  Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery.  If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother?  After all, it's a sacrificial top.  I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid.  YMMV.

I don't use the fence on my MFT. I just use the holes to line up 90's and 45's. I like the speed of it. I would need my holes perfect to keep doing that. I am building a larger work center and have contemplated the CNC route vs. me using my lr32.

Depends on price and how close the CNC shop would be.
 
sgt_rjp said:
@squarecut, so how was it?  I've seen some people recommend that method, but then others say they'll never do it again that way.  Maybe it depends how big a top you do?  What router did you use?  I've got only got one router(makita 1100).  With the price increase looming, trying to decide if I should by an OF1010.  I've bought a bunch of green tools recently(as well as some red ;) and will buy more by the end of the month(more green), but wondering if I can save some money by skipping the router.  I'm sure I can do the mft holes with the Makita, but I'd like to get a smaller router and this might be the excuse I need for the OF1010.

sgt_rip
Sorry to say I do not have a Festool router (it's on my upgrade list) I used my DeWalt 618 with plunge base. To insure a level of accuracy I first made a template of 1/4" mdf, cut it oversize width-wise and added cleats. My extension wings only required a 35 hole pattern as they measure the same depth as the MFT top but are only 21-1/4" long. But two wing equal 70 holes - worked out great, holes are dead on. Check out picture 15 & 16 at this link. - http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/my-custom-built-expandable-mft-on-rolling-cart/
 
Looks very nice. Could be nice to see in NA, but then having a large top would be a nice move as well.

I'm estimating a ball park price is around $320, for the profiles, but that could most likely end up being cheaper since most Festool products are cheaper here than Europe.
 
Now with holes using LR32 system.
 

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