More MFT Enhancement Ideas

[nclemmons]

These were posted previously in the photos section of the Yahoo site, but I thought I'd include them here for those who might own or consider an MFT table.

First is a tool tray that i made from 1/4 inch Baltic birch plywood - enabling me to have a tool tray to the back or side of the MFT table.  it's attached with a couple of hex bolts captured into the side rails with plastic knobs for easy adjustment or removal

The second is a lower level shelf - made from 3/4 ply with two rails that wrap over the round cross braces on the MFT legs.  The shelf is easy to remove but provides convenient off-the-floor storage

The third enhancement uses Jorgensen hold-downs for clamping on the MFT top.  The clamp is attached with a hex bolt that goes through a dowel to easily center them in the MFT holes.  A plastic knob is tightened from underneath to keep the hold-downs snug to the table when work is released.  With this setup you have amazing holding power to the MFT top.

Hope these ideas are useful. 

Neil

 

[Mirko]

Neil,

Great Ideas! I think I'll make the shelf first, Its great for storage, but I was thinking it may help with the MFT's "wobble" There are times when I'm using the table for hand planeing or sanding, it will really start to sway back and forth. The only thing that helps is kicking the legs outward, maybe your shelf idea, will act like a spreader for the legs. Thanks and great post!

Mirko

 

[Brian 57]

Made much cruder copies of your ideas, as well us a till/holster for the TS55.
Regards

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Neil,

Great Ideas! I think I'll make the shelf first, Its great for storage, but I was thinking it may help with the MFT's "wobble" There are times when I'm using the table for hand planeing or sanding, it will really start to sway back and forth.
Mirko

I'll be very interested in your experience and hope that you find a simple successful solution.  Some cross-bracing to create some triangulation  struts extending from the lower cross bar on one leg set to the top of the other or the table side rail might provide the greatest improvement.  I gave up on the idea of using the basic MFT 1080 for hand planing, unless I can position one end of it to buck up against a wall or other immmovable object.

 

[Paul Franklin]

Here some of the MFT enhancements I have built.

Regards

Paul

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Everyone,
This is excellent -- exactly the way we should transfer discussions from the Yahoo group.  Thanks for takikng the time to move your excellent ideas and photos from Yahoo over to this forum.
Matthew

 

[Dan Clark]

Excellent pics!  Well focused, good color balance, tightly cropped! 

Thanks,

Dan.
(aka, The Photo Cop  ;D )

 

[Eli]

I wrote a suggestion on a Tablesaw  thread, perhaps it's better here.

Has anyone tried putting a d-ring or padeye on the floor central to the MFT and sending a turnbuckle and wire cable to just under top, centered on each short extrusion end, to an eye bolt threaded on to a hex head in the extrusion? Not a single wire cable, but one for each side. Kick out the legs and cinching down should take out the wobble. It's easier on a wood floor obviously, but would work on concrete too. No pix cause I haven't done it yet.

 

[Overtime]

Wow,  I missed this stuff. That tool tray is perfect, out of the way but within reach to store the table accessories. I have to hunt for them sometimes. And the saw shelf, that is nice also. Good Stuff !  8)

 

[Dan Clark]

Here some of the MFT enhancements I have built.

Regards

Paul

Paul,

The last time I responded on this, I just liked the idea of that tray in general.  No specific interest, just "that's a great idea that I might need some day".  Well, the day came last weekend...

While setting a board under the guide rail on my MFT, my TS55 was in the way.  So I placed it on the systainer which was on my CT22.  I've done this before and it works OK.  Wouldn't you know it but I bumped the TS55 and off she went - "BANG" on the floor.    It seems OK, but I hate doing that.

Now is my time for a TS55 carrier.  Many thanks for posting a great idea.

Dan.

 

[bruegf]

Paul,

Thanks for the saw holder idea.  I built mine last week prior to starting my laundry room cabinet project.  Never came close to knocking the saw off the MFT like I usually do when lifting the guide/sliding the work piece into position.  I'm convinced this idea has saved me from knocking the saw onto the floor.

[attachimg=#]

I've also added a Kreg self adhesive tape to the MFT fence.

[attachimg=#]

 

[Dan Clark]

Here some of the MFT enhancements I have built.

Regards

Paul

Paul,

Two other questions...  For the saw shelf, where did you get the hardware and what size is it?

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[mcmillansprings]

I really Like your saw shelf and outlet. I was wondering if you could give me the dimensions of the saw box.  Thanks MAC

 

[Mike_Chrest]

Here's my version of Neil's tool tray.  I put a magnetic bar on the outside and a couple hooks for a framing square. Anybody else make one?[attachimg=#]

 

[Mike_Chrest]

Here's some of the stuff I like to keep in the tote.[attachimg=#]

 

[Mike_Chrest]

Here's the end view. I angled the top so the square would hang lower than the surface of the MFT.[attachimg=#]

 

[webfarmer]

Love the tote idea. 

Also can't recommend the saw holder highly enough.  I am one of the unlucky ones who has knocked the saw off the table with some momentum - tripping over the cord, and causing the saw to slam against the concrete floor.  I needed to replace / recalibrate the saw base after that little dance.  Never a problem with the saw holder idea. 

Take an evening and make one!

 

[Deke]

Thanks Neil. You inspired me and I made two tool trays tonight for my MF3. Now all my clamps, chip guards... are off the wall. Saw holder is next. For a temporary try out I put a piece of plywood across the bottom for the shelf. I may just use some plastic plumbing clamps I have laying around to secure it. One thing led to another and now I am completely reorganizing my shop layout. Thanks! I think

P.S. I have a sort of Workmate knock off that has been in the corner for years. As I moved things around I remembered it came with a number of plastic stops/dogs, some pretty large (2 or more inches high). Sure enough they fit the MFT and now my clamping options are growing. So I consider the mess I am making worth it all.

 

[monte]

Neil,

Great Ideas! I think I'll make the shelf first, Its great for storage, but I was thinking it may help with the MFT's "wobble" There are times when I'm using the table for hand planeing or sanding, it will really start to sway back and forth. The only thing that helps is kicking the legs outward, maybe your shelf idea, will act like a spreader for the legs. Thanks and great post!
Mirko

Mirko,

Try fixing the table to the wall as I did below if you can.
You'll need angle brackets with a flat stock to them.
(that's white painted plywood behind the MFT)
If your dealing with studs & drywall you could always span a piece of ply across first.
Using the Festool clamps allows you to pull away when you need to without any fuss.
I get absolutely no racking when using the JMP in the case below.
If you need to pull away from the wall for the clearance - it also works with larger longer brackets.

It works with the MFT 800 as well.
(when I bring the JMP to my work corner at home)

.

.

 

[tbellemare]

Roger:

Excellent idea!

I wonder if you turned the brackets 90 degrees if it would work even better?

That would take most of the sway out both directions and the same could be used on the MFT/3 - it doesn't have the top t-slots.

Tom