Moving guide rail for longer cuts?

itasor

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I recently ordered my first Festool products, the TS 55 REQ with CT 26 dust extractor! I own mostly Bosch tools, but their track saw isn't available in the US (under the Bosch name, anyway) and their dust extractors have hardly any reviews and seem "unproven" compared to the Festool CT vacs.

I'm starting/hoping to do more work inside during the winter, but the dust collection on my Bosch GTS1031 table saw isn't very good and it's also very loud. I'm hoping to use the TS 55 REQ to cut up plywood indoors without any major dust in the air. I'm planning to use a 4x8 sheet of foam insulation under the cuts as a sacrificial surface and to improve dust collection.

I'm not going to buy another rail yet, as I'm trying to decide between the 106" or another 55" and connectors (probably the Makita style connectors). Does anyone have any recommendations for making an 8' long cut with only one 55" guide rail? I'm thinking 3 marks along the cut, line up the guide rail with the first 2, make the cut, then use the saw and riving knife to line up one end of the next cut and use the 3rd mark on the other end. Any suggestions/tips on making this work?
 
A couple of options I have used in the past when in a pinch.

One, use double-sided tape or clamp a straight edge to the plywood and use it as a fence to move the guide rail along it. If your straight edge is short, then overlap it with the guide rail clamping each alternately as you progress the cut.

Two, as you suggested, use the blade of the saw in the previous cut's kerf to set the guide rail each time you move it along (power off!).

The first method works better for me.
 
^ That first idea is a good one. Could make a template that's adjustable and you have the benefits of an 9' rail with parallel guides for a fraction of the cost.

Wouldn't be as good in alot of ways but if you don't rip all that often it would get you by.
 
I would suggest you go ahead and buy another 55" rail with the makita connectors, that's what I use and haven't had any issues with alignment.  Method is the same as well.

I wouldn't recommend the option of moving the rails along the plywood, even if you use a good straight edge to keep alignment.  I think that extra plunge in the middle of the plywood length, if not perfectly aligned and saw not balanced, may not leave a clean cut where the second plunge joins the first cut.  Moving the rail to complete the cut simply adds some complexity to ensure a clean cut. You could always make a few cuts though on some scrap pieces to verify how well moving the rail will work out....

With two rails, once you have the two rails set up, you eliminate some wasted time and that additional step in the cut.  I leave the connectors in my second rail, that way I only have to secure the other rail, once I have them aligned.
 
Hello,
I'm curious as to why people are suggesting the Makita connectors over the festool ones? 
Thanks.
 
If you opt for a second 55" rail, get a holey rail so you have the option to expand into the LR32 setup in the future if you want.

mrB said:
I'm curious as to why people are suggesting the Makita connectors over the festool ones? 

The Makita connectors are made of two pieces that push apart so the adjustment screws never contact the rail. This means you can torque it down more without concern about damaging the rail.
 
Moving the rail, just by eyeballing it, worked pretty well. I think I'm going to get another 55" rail and connectors. Are there any issues connecting the LR32 (rail with holes) to a regular rail?
 
mike_aa said:
More Info on the Makita connectors and a post on some homemade ones.

Mike A.

Thanks.  Actually I realise that I know this already, as the theatre company I do a lot of work for have the Makita saw in the workshop. Just never saw it as much of an advantage. But I do see the point.
 
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