E
ericbuggeln
Guest
Johne, Dan must be busy, those are some nice pics. I will be borrowing the term "cooker", thank you
My festooled kitchen
- Thread starter johne
- Start date
Here's one shot i have of the cabinet interior
I used melamine laminated HPL for the cabinets, this is a mate structured surface (as you can see in the "shockabsorber pic) its water resistant easy to clean etc. The fronts were spray painted with a high gloss paint by a guy that does car repairs. (i'm not to good at painting or spraying) All cabinets are edgebanded front and yes back too with 3mm PVC. This gives nice protection from damage, much better than The iron on melamine edge banding.
Now for the tall cabinet that houses the fridge and the oven i had a little problem. One side (only one side is visible) had to have the same high gloss finish as the rest of the cabinet fronts. But since the hpl is melamine covered on both sides and i did not know how well paint would stick to the melamine, i laminated that side with some duropal white high gloss. Took a piece of this to the painter and he matched the color of the cabinet fronts to this. I also laminated the kickboards with some duropal material that looked like brushed stainless steel (This was a good match for the cooker and other apliances.)
The shelf in the pic is fixed to the cabinet with some harware from Wurth this uses a pin in the side of the cabinet and an excenter in the hardware visible that gives the cabinet some extra structural strength but can be removed to lower or rise the shelf. They make a lig that drills two holes for the shelf part. I like the look of it and it is easy to remove and locks the shelf in a very solid way. The same hardware was used in the 4 foot drawer bottoms to connect them to the drawer fronts to prevent sagging
I used melamine laminated HPL for the cabinets, this is a mate structured surface (as you can see in the "shockabsorber pic) its water resistant easy to clean etc. The fronts were spray painted with a high gloss paint by a guy that does car repairs. (i'm not to good at painting or spraying) All cabinets are edgebanded front and yes back too with 3mm PVC. This gives nice protection from damage, much better than The iron on melamine edge banding.
Now for the tall cabinet that houses the fridge and the oven i had a little problem. One side (only one side is visible) had to have the same high gloss finish as the rest of the cabinet fronts. But since the hpl is melamine covered on both sides and i did not know how well paint would stick to the melamine, i laminated that side with some duropal white high gloss. Took a piece of this to the painter and he matched the color of the cabinet fronts to this. I also laminated the kickboards with some duropal material that looked like brushed stainless steel (This was a good match for the cooker and other apliances.)
The shelf in the pic is fixed to the cabinet with some harware from Wurth this uses a pin in the side of the cabinet and an excenter in the hardware visible that gives the cabinet some extra structural strength but can be removed to lower or rise the shelf. They make a lig that drills two holes for the shelf part. I like the look of it and it is easy to remove and locks the shelf in a very solid way. The same hardware was used in the 4 foot drawer bottoms to connect them to the drawer fronts to prevent sagging
mastercabman
Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2007
- Messages
- 1,854
again nice work! thanks!johne said:
Johne,
What a beautiful space! Thanks for posting this for us.
Tell me more about the 3mm pvc. We have a super-thin pvc alternative to traditional edge-banding called fast cap. It comes in 50 foot rolls and has a strong adhesive. Place on the edge and roll or apply pressure to set it. I am not aware of 3mm pvc edgebanding in the States though. How do you apply it, how do you match color, etc.?
Thanks
Dave
What a beautiful space! Thanks for posting this for us.
Tell me more about the 3mm pvc. We have a super-thin pvc alternative to traditional edge-banding called fast cap. It comes in 50 foot rolls and has a strong adhesive. Place on the edge and roll or apply pressure to set it. I am not aware of 3mm pvc edgebanding in the States though. How do you apply it, how do you match color, etc.?
Thanks
Dave
Hi,
Nice. I can see why you would not want upper cabinets in that space. Those wide drawers are a great way to have good access to everything.
Seth
Nice. I can see why you would not want upper cabinets in that space. Those wide drawers are a great way to have good access to everything.
Seth
johnejohne said:This was my first major project using the festools. (and the one that justified buying expensive tools lol)
Both me and my wife like minimalistic design and she wanted plain high gloss white cabinet fronts. (No rails and stiles). We didnt want any cabinets on the walls because the space is relatively small. The long stainless grips were also a wish of hers (i wanted no grips at all, but life is all about compromise).
Dishwasher, fridge, waistebins are incorporated and there are two "carousels" (is that an English word?) in the corners. They revolve, the doors move inward and you have two trays in each for pans and such.
To maximize storage space I used mainly drawers varying in size from 2 to 4 feet aproximately. I used the Blum "Blumotion" hardware for the drawers. Blum hinges and some of these little "shockabsorbers" for the two doors (so they dont slam shut)
The countertop is 4 cm beech (mitered at the corners) with the sink routed flush. The faucet is an italian one by Fantini that was left over from a photoshoot.
There is also a little chrome soap pump incorporated.
There is a little heater in the kickboard under the cooker since the original heater had to make room for the kitchen.
Eric is right... I'm a slacker! VERY nice pics!!! And of course the Oh ficial:
;D
Dan.
robtonya
Member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2007
- Messages
- 722
Dan Rush said:
Those are the ones I was wanting. I have the soft close toilet seat, so the kids can't slam it, so I thought I would make all the drawers and doors soft close too. Here is where I am at so far with the bathroom. I still need some more tools for the vanity, I just got a plate joiner ( as soon as pay-pal can pay the man), and I am going to get the Kreg pocket hole screw, then I think I am set.
Dave Rudy said:
Dave,
it is very similar to what you describe it comes on rolls, it is available in many colors. There is no adhesive, you need a special glue. I used it becuase apart from it being strong and resistant to denting, the thickness makes it so that you can route a radius or a beveled edge on it. This would be hard to do otherwise on a melamine laminated cabinet with thin edgebanding. In this case since the cabinets are white color matching was no problem
Here' s some pics of the jig i mentioned for the shelf connections it is also great for making cabinets that need to be dissasembled.
It is made by Wurth a german company.
it has registering pins much like the domino. Clamp it to your work piece by tightening the knob
and drill the two holes with the drill bit provided
Insert the excentric piece of hardware (srry dont know what those things are called)
Hamer the hardware into the hole (cover with a piece of wood) and that's it.
It is made by Wurth a german company.
it has registering pins much like the domino. Clamp it to your work piece by tightening the knob
and drill the two holes with the drill bit provided
Insert the excentric piece of hardware (srry dont know what those things are called)
Hamer the hardware into the hole (cover with a piece of wood) and that's it.
Wurth jig continued
for the side to be connected....
use the drill jig to drill a 5mm hole (has registring pins also)
Screw in the metal pin
put the two pieces together, tighten the excenter part and you re done. Works well on tall cabinets to add some strength
It is a real solid connection. And just like domino no need to measure just use the registering pins
for the side to be connected....
use the drill jig to drill a 5mm hole (has registring pins also)
Screw in the metal pin
put the two pieces together, tighten the excenter part and you re done. Works well on tall cabinets to add some strength
It is a real solid connection. And just like domino no need to measure just use the registering pins
Michael Kellough
Member
Thanks John, you've set a new standard (or rather a very high bar) for photographic exposition.
Dan, two thumbs up needed here, right away
Dan, two thumbs up needed here, right away
Michael Kellough said:Thanks John, you've set a new standard (or rather a very high bar) for photographic exposition.
Dan, two thumbs up needed here, right away
Really good, but not perfect.
Busy background. The top of the clamp makes it more difficult to see the jig clearly.
I understand that this shows the working position, complete with clamp, but a camera angle that keeps the clamp more separate from the jig would be better.
2nd choice: Make clamp a phantom in Photoshop. That might be the first choice, since it frees the photographer to take a shot like this (which might be the best angle).
Ned
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2007
- Messages
- 184
Johne,
Great "Cooker" hood. Did you have it made or is it a Stock item.
I also like the fact that there is room to roll out a pie crust.
I don't see a dish washer, or is she out working.
Wives here don't wash dishes, no dish washer no wife.
It's like the old story---- First you wanted to get married, then you
wanted children and now you want furniture?
Really a neat job. Good eye for design.
Bob
Great "Cooker" hood. Did you have it made or is it a Stock item.
I also like the fact that there is room to roll out a pie crust.
I don't see a dish washer, or is she out working.
Wives here don't wash dishes, no dish washer no wife.
It's like the old story---- First you wanted to get married, then you
wanted children and now you want furniture?
Really a neat job. Good eye for design.
Bob
