My First Festool Assisted Project

[tiralie]

Julie:

Great job on the doors.

1. On the edge of the countertop we were thinking of installing either mahogany or sapele and breaking the edges slightly with a 45 cut.  But recently I'm wondering if we should consider some sort of granite edging instead.  I don't know if something like that is even made or it we would have to have a stone company custom make it, but in my minds eye I think it would make the granite tile countertop look more finished.  We would have gone the slab route but it would have broken the bank. Any thoughts?

Like others have stated edging the counter with mahogany or sapele will be problematic. While there is a grout that the flooring guys use to join tile to wood, as Peter says with all the moisture around the sink etc. there will eventually be problems.

1) I don't have experience with stone but I would think the best solution would be to edge with the same granite that's you used on the top. Ideally you would want the top to cover the edge vs. having the top of the edge showing with a grout line. This means routing out a space so you can glue and grout the edge in. That's a big job.

2) You could edge with black anodized aluminum or similar.Since you are installing stainless steel appliances you might want to consider the schulter stainless steel counter top edge.. (I just checked they make a black edge as well) This would compliment your design (black edging) and be relatively easy to keep clean etc. This will probably involve custom fabrication.

2. Should we change the window colors and wood trim to match the kitchen or keep it matching the rest of the house?

Yes either tone them to look like the doors, or paint them. There is a lot (color, wood grain tones) going on in that kitchen.

3. Should there be a valance between the cabinets over the sink, or no?  If yes, how wide?  And should it be profiled or straight?

Like others have stated, No. This will make the kitchen look dated and ruin the "less is more" design aesthetic the doors have created.

4. The bar nosing on the chair side of the countertop (2nd pic down), it's made from red oak and the color matches all the wood in the family room.  If we install sapele or mahogany on the kitchen side of the counter face edges, should we make another bar nosing to match, or just leave it?  If we matched it, we would probably have to replace the oak paneling below with sapele paneling.

Don't change it. While I don't like it, it makes sense to see a "bar type" edge in front of bar stools.  

Tim

 

[JuliMor]

Lots of great advice!  Thank you! 

Okay, the valance is out!  My head is slowly coming out of the 80's.  [big grin]

I agree with no wood on the counter edge.  There was oak before and it held up okay but never looked right.  But if I can't find something pre-made to compliment the tile, yeah, it will be big bucks.  Maybe instead of sitting down when I get the price, I'll have to be lying down and sedated.  But when we bought the granite tile, it was the last of the run.  I don't know if we could match it perfectly, even if we had it all custom made.

I've got to check into that stainless steel edging.  Thanks for the link Tim!

Yeah, the window can't stay that way.  I think it looks ugly and out of place.  But since all the other doors and windows are stained & varnished the same, I wasn't sure.

The bar nosing on the stool side is only two years old.  It took a lot of work getting all that right and I'd hate to trash it.  My brain was still stuck in red oak then and everything else in the house was red oak.  If I can find a stone alternative to the wood on the inside counter edging, I don't think the bar nosing will conflict with the rest of the kitchen.

I need to tap into this brain trust here more often!  Thank you all so much!  The overload meter has now dropped below DEFCON 5.  [smile]

 

[JuliMor]

Don't blame me if I'm tapping your brains again.  You've created a monster!

This is what I'm planning for between the wall cabinets above the cooktop.

This is what I have done so far

the exposed bottom

and the "utility" side

The holes are where the lights are going to go. (I decided on 5)  I glued blocks to create a cone effect typically seen in recessed can trims.  I'll hole saw and rout a bevel to create the cone.  My plans are to paint the interior of the cone gloss black.  The puck light will sit with the bottom of the puck on the blocks I glued inside.

I wanted to use LED pucks.  And I definitely want full dimming capability.  Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, those two aren't fully compatible.  The best LED dimming I have found dims down to only 40%.  Then there's matching the Lutron Maestro dimmer, I already bought and installed, with the LED driver.  Anyway, it's been a nightmare getting the LED concept to work the way I want.

So I bought some incandescent pucks.  I did a test piece and didn't like the look.  I couldn't get the different grain cuts inside the cone to cast light evenly. Side grain reflected smoothly and end grain absorbed.  What else could I do to make the light cast evenly inside the cone?  Fill it with something that sands easily?  Drywall mud maybe?  What would sand easily and still bond well to the wood?  I want something that sands easily because if it's difficult to sand it will be difficult to get a smooth cone all the way around and the gloss paint will show every flaw. 

 

[JuliMor]

Hmmmm...... Give 'em an inch and they'll take a mile?  [unsure]  I'll withdraw the questions.

Thanks for all your help.  [smile]

 

[Paul G]

Julie, I'd try a test with an epoxy that will seal the grain and sand smooth.

 

[peter halle]

Julie,

I don't think that you are be ignored.  The past month has been rocking' here and I think that some - like me - just missed your post.

I like the light fixture as long as it doesn't interfere with the window trim.

As someone who loved the lighting end of the retailing construction business, I was wondering if a single Mr-16 ballast could power 5 lights if you used Mr 16 sockets and the Led replacements for the MR-16's?

 

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as you asked about dimming LED's---POE.

http://lumencache.com

Tom

 

[peter halle]

The suggestion about epoxy is a good one.  You could add cabosil to the epoxy which will make it thicker, but make sure you wear a dust mask when mixing and don't do the mixing on a windy day.

Whereas you are going to be painting the inside black anyway, you could also consider an easy sanding wood filler or bondo.

Just thoughts.

Peter

 

[sancho57]

Very nicely done Julie.

I really like the wood/ counter top color combo you've chosen . Your kitchen has very nice lines too.  You make me want to demo mines and build another one.

 

[tiralie]

So I bought some incandescent pucks.  I did a test piece and didn't like the look.

Are these lights task lights or decorative or both?

I couldn't get the different grain cuts inside the cone to cast light evenly. Side grain reflected smoothly and end grain absorbed.  

Why is this important? It's unlikely you will ever look up there when the unit is installed and most likely at about 6' 6"- 7' in the air it won't make much difference. If the light is too dispersed when at it's final position then you are going to need a different kind of reflector any way.

What else could I do to make the light cast evenly inside the cone?  Fill it with something that sands easily?  Drywall mud maybe?  What would sand easily and still bond well to the wood?  I want something that sands easily because if it's difficult to sand it will be difficult to get a smooth cone all the way around and the gloss paint will show every flaw.  

Use a grain filler such as Target EM 5000 or Aqua Coat, discussed by Paul Marcel.

here

[unsure]  I'll withdraw the questions.

The curse of the internet is that nothing entering it can be withdrawn...

 

[JuliMor]

Thanks again guys.  You've given me lots to think about, again.  When you imagine something in your mind's eye and begin the search for the parts & pieces to make it happen, it can be a beautiful thing when it all comes together.  But if you can't find all the parts & pieces, it can be a nightmare. 

In the old kitchen setup, I had false beams in the center and bought fluorescent strips to put in there to cast light up.  When I went to install the strips I discovered they were too tall and you could see the lamps peeking out over the top.  So I dismantled the strips and mounted the tombstones to the inside of the beam, inserted the lamps and tucked the ballasts wherever I could.  But the lights didn't all turn on all the time.  I was talking to a guy at work and he told me fluorescent lamps need a grounding path to follow and if I took metallic tape from one end cap to the other the lights should work fine.  And they did.  But I went for almost a year with the lights not always all working.

I'm going to play around with the wood sealant ideas and see what comes.  I also found a dealer for those LEDs in the area so I'll give them a call.

Thanks again!

BTW, I wasn't feeling ignored.  I was just afraid I had become like that kid who keeps tapping you on the shoulder asking a million questions.