I recently purchased a reconditioned TS55 REQ from the annual sale. The goal is to be able to use this to rip down sheet goods but possibly also make crosscuts from time to time. I would like the cuts to be as accurate as possible. I will probably make a cutting grid that can be knocked down for storage. How do you clamp the track to the sheet since the saw needs to slide along the whole track? I know I can buy the quick clamps but that's $76 for two clamps and to make cross cuts would I need the parallel guides for another $325? I know festool is expensive but geeze [eek] I just want to use the saw. I'm also debating whether i need to buy the 106 or 118" rail or if I can just get another 55" and the guide rail connectors? From what I've read it seems like a pain to join the guide rails and they may not line up perfectly. Thanks for helping out a newbie.
My first festool, clamps and the TS55?
- Thread starter freckles
- Start date
Worm Drive
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- Dec 19, 2013
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- 128
The Dewalt quick clamps work great for half the price. Just had to file off a little slag, to get it to fit the track. I bought the 106", wish I bought the 118" instead.
VW mick
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- Apr 27, 2014
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First off [welcome]
I'd go for a long rail and you have 1 short one for cross cuts then
Also the screw clamps are a lot cheaper you can get a pack of 2 for about £24
And I think a lot of people prefer them
As for parallel guides .ive never seen the need .but a lot of guys seem to use them
I'd go for a long rail and you have 1 short one for cross cuts then
Also the screw clamps are a lot cheaper you can get a pack of 2 for about £24
And I think a lot of people prefer them
As for parallel guides .ive never seen the need .but a lot of guys seem to use them
freckles said:
Hi,
Welcome to the forum! [smile]
The best way to clamp the rails is to use the Festool clamps or similar because they fit into the bottom T slot. Removing any obstruction. However you will find , especially when using a well supported cutting surface, that you rarely actually need to clamp the rail. The grip strips on the bottom are quite effective.
Get the 106" or 118" rail if you can. Unless you have transport or storage problems. The one piece long rail simply makes life easier.
Seth
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- Nov 14, 2013
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- 3,575
First, [welcome] to the FOG!
As stated above, I would pick up a longer rail AND the connectors to use with your existing rails when you need to make a longer cut. I agree with the choice of the 118" rail (Guide Rail FS 3000 - $335) over the 106" rail (106" Guide Rail FS 2700 - $315) if you have the room. The price is almost identical, and the extra length is very handy for angle cuts on sheet goods. For instance, a corner-to-corner diagonal cut on a 4x8 sheet is 107+ inches.
If you are even considering the LR-32 system, you should also consider the 96" 'Holey Rail', Part No. 491622 - $315.00.
Hope this helps rather than confuses you?
As stated above, I would pick up a longer rail AND the connectors to use with your existing rails when you need to make a longer cut. I agree with the choice of the 118" rail (Guide Rail FS 3000 - $335) over the 106" rail (106" Guide Rail FS 2700 - $315) if you have the room. The price is almost identical, and the extra length is very handy for angle cuts on sheet goods. For instance, a corner-to-corner diagonal cut on a 4x8 sheet is 107+ inches.
If you are even considering the LR-32 system, you should also consider the 96" 'Holey Rail', Part No. 491622 - $315.00.
Hope this helps rather than confuses you?
1-Rail: if you have the storage space and don't need to travel go with the 118". If not, another 55' LR32 compatible with joining rods is the second best solution. If you have no need for the LR32 system in the future a 75" is a better option as it will give you the extra length for crosscutting plywood sheets.
2-Clamps: not a must, but very helpful. Screw clamps work as good as rapid clamp but my new favorite when using the 118" rail is the rapid clamp ($50).
3-Paralel guide is a production tool, if you have to brake down a lot of sheet of plywood to the same dimension it is very helpful, if not a good measuring tape and a 0.2mm pencil works great.
4-Cost: a pair of clamps range from 84-76 dollars, messing up one sheet of good plywood range from 56-140 dollars, round trip to wood store is 90 mn plus gas so we are talking 140-200 dollar mistake because your rail moved.
Parallel guide $325: you are 30% faster with repetitive cuts and little chance of mistakes. You are saving between 15-20 dollars an hour on labor.
The system TS 55($615), CT midi ($450), FS3000($325), clamps ($84) total cost $1,474.This is the equivalent of 20-30 sheets of plywood. You have a portable high quality system that will permit you to work faster, better and smarter. If you are using a stable cutting table the likelihood of cutting a finger or hand is nil. You also reduced your chance of back injury and your lungs will not be damage from breathing all of the sawdust mixed with chemicals from those new composite materials and that is priceless.
Bruce
2-Clamps: not a must, but very helpful. Screw clamps work as good as rapid clamp but my new favorite when using the 118" rail is the rapid clamp ($50).
3-Paralel guide is a production tool, if you have to brake down a lot of sheet of plywood to the same dimension it is very helpful, if not a good measuring tape and a 0.2mm pencil works great.
4-Cost: a pair of clamps range from 84-76 dollars, messing up one sheet of good plywood range from 56-140 dollars, round trip to wood store is 90 mn plus gas so we are talking 140-200 dollar mistake because your rail moved.
Parallel guide $325: you are 30% faster with repetitive cuts and little chance of mistakes. You are saving between 15-20 dollars an hour on labor.
The system TS 55($615), CT midi ($450), FS3000($325), clamps ($84) total cost $1,474.This is the equivalent of 20-30 sheets of plywood. You have a portable high quality system that will permit you to work faster, better and smarter. If you are using a stable cutting table the likelihood of cutting a finger or hand is nil. You also reduced your chance of back injury and your lungs will not be damage from breathing all of the sawdust mixed with chemicals from those new composite materials and that is priceless.
Bruce
