my kapex and extension cords

[pgurnee]

I use my 10" dewalt chopsaw for framing.
We started exterior trim yesterday. Our only power source is a 30amp circuit with a 10g 50' cord run from the house next door.
I had to set the kapex up 100 feet away and ran 2 50' 12 gauge cords to the 50' 10g one.
The gutter and insulation crews were on site - neither drawing any juice from our cord but taking up a lot of room.
The kapex was the only draw on the circuit.
My saw did not like beveling 45* cuts in 5/4 by 6 cedar.  I turned the speed down to 4 and made three passes per cut and it sounded much happier. A straight 90* cut was not an issue.

I am not happy that I did that to my kapex given the number of smoked stories I have read.
What about tomorrow?

 

[demographic]

I'm not sure about the gauge of the wires as we don't really measure em that way over here but on an 9cassion where I was a long way from the power I have had to use a 32 amp extension which has thicker cable than the more usual 16 am site ones.
That wasnt for a Kapex, it was for a TS55 connected to a CTM 26 extractor.
When I just tried the long 16 amp cable the saw and extractor just didn't have enough power.

 

[pgurnee]

I was running the kapex thru my Fein vac also.
I removed the Fein and plugged the vac directly into the power.
Turning the speed down and reducing the amount of material of each cut made the kapex sound normal.
I am still very worried that I may have done premature damage.
Had I not read so much about the motor failures I would not be worried at all.

 

[peter halle]

As a long term user of the Kapex I will offer something that I have observed.  Beveling (workpiece flat on table and head tilted) ends a clean and sharp blade.  I tend to try to get every little bit of life out of my blades and once I change them and bevel I remember again why I liked the saw.

Peter

 

[ChuckS]

Snip.
  Beveling (workpiece flat on table and head tilted) ends a clean and sharp blade.  Peter

Sometimes it's the only way. That's, when the stock exceeds the vertical capacity of the saw. In normal mitre cuts, I prefer the stand-up position because the clamp (which I use whenever possible for safety as well as precision) doesn't get in the way.

 

[pgurnee]

I understand Peter. I had planned on getting my blade sharpened and our cabinet maker mentioned that often a 'dull' blade is not dull but dirty. It was. So I cleaned it up with CMT (?) and put it back on.  Your point is well taken. Clean or not, it probably does need resharpening.

Chuck is that the fast cap third hand? Looks like a tool I bought last year and appreciate it.
I also like to miter rather than bevel. If it fits vertically it is cut that way. I was cutting a full 6" wide trim piece for exterior window and door head trims. This material is factory glued, finger jointed, primed cedar...some of the pieces that make up the boards are denser than other pieces. The saw was much happier when I stopped trying to force the full bevel cut.

I used the saw a bit today and it ran great.
Appreciate your responses ...and no one has said I have probably done harm...breathing easier and knocking on wood, my head.

 

[ChuckS]

Chuck is that the fast cap third hand? Looks like a tool I bought last year and appreciate it.

Yup. it's the second best thing to the Kapex's hold-down clamp in protecting our fingers. I also use it with the table saw cross-cut sled. (Side note: I came across a youtube video in which the guy probably spent an hour, making a wooden copy of the fastcap stick. I have many ways to save some money, but that isn't the path I'd go down.)