My Saw Table

[TahoeTwoBears]

Steve,

Yes, I built one right after the last posts. It's worked out well. I'm glad I did it. I changed it just a hair with 4 cross pieces instead of 3.

Mike

 

[WMann]

Hi guys,

I loved the portability of this table so I built one with a few changes.  I used five cross pieces as I wanted more support for the corners if I ever needed to rip thin flexible material.  I also put two 6" long x 3/4" wide slots in the flat boards that lie on top of the saw horses and left two 5 3/4" long x 3/4" wide x 3/4" deep extensions on the bottom of the two cross pieces so that they would key into the two flat pieces laying on top of the saw horses.  This keeps me from having to permanently attach the two pieces together, which would make transporting them a little tougher.  I am using two Black and Decker saw horses that look like the same ones that Mumda is using.  The saw horses have a "V" groove on top and I now wish that I had made the two extensions extend down a 1/2" or so and they would key into the saw horses and help prevent the "table" from trying to slide around on the saw horses.  I would attach a few pictures if I could figure out how.  If anything needs further explaining let me know.

I used my new TS 75 to rip all the parts out of one sheet of old 3/5" plywood.  I bolted the long pieces together and stood them up vertically and used my Makita LS1212 compound miter saw to cut out all the notches.  I used my Porter Cable router with a 1/2" diameter x 2" long straight bit to route the bottom of the slots.  I locked the boards vertically in a clamping saw horse (cheapy that I got at Harbor Freight) and rested the router on top edge of the board which allowed me to mill the bottom of the slots.  The shoulder on the 1/2" bit keeps the cutter from milling out the sides of the slots. 

This table was made out of an old piece of wood as a test.  I have already, as I mentioned before, come up with a few changes that I want to make, so I will probably be making another table when we get a little warmer weather.

 
Wayne Mann
Randleman NC

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Wayne,
Let me emphasize the need for photos.  Yes, we need visual proof of all claims in this forum!

Adding photos to your messages is easier than you might think.  You have two basic options:
1. A "simple" attachment, so photos appear at the bottom of your message, below the text area.
2. An "inline" attachment, so your photos appear inside the text area of your message.

Do it once, and it will be second nature.

If you need help, take a look at the tutorial located here.
Also, I put together a little tutorial on the "inline" feature, located here.

Of course, if you still need help, please feel free to post questions.

Matthew

 

[sl_1800]

I made one of these tables today, it works really well, thanks for the idea.

 

[Texastutt]

So has anyone made Gary's Assembly table? This seems that this table serves the same purpose only less $$ which is good. Ironically I ask this and I may have the knock down table built before I can read a reply tonight, if my customer has cleaned out their garage... one more thing to fit into the trailer.

 

[TahoeTwoBears]

So has anyone made Gary's Assembly table? This seems that this table serves the same purpose only less $$ which is good. Ironically I ask this and I may have the knock down table built before I can read a reply tonight, if my customer has cleaned out their garage... one more thing to fit into the trailer.

Gary's Assembly table? Don't know about it. Can you share more info?

Mike

 

[Eli]

I think he means Gary Katz.

 

[TahoeTwoBears]

I was kind of assuming that, but I've never seen it. I'll check around on Gary's site and see if I can dig up a link.

 

[Eli]

The assembly table is a flat torsion box with sliding arms that radiate out in all directions, increasing the work size. If I'm thinking of the right thing.

 

[Texastutt]

Yes it is Gary Katz assembly table... I priced out the Kreg slides... & thought about the time to make the table and supports... Plus the weight and transportablity of it vs. this unit... SO

I needed some plywood from my supplier so I picked up an extra sheet and it's all broken down, I just have to cut the half lap joints tomorrow... and then I'm going to break down several sheets and do all my toe kicks with the greatest of ease.

Thanks for the posting.

 

[woodshopdemos]

A very nice looking project. I have been reading every word with interest. It has been my belief, that having a foam piece under the panel being cut is best for the cut quality on the underside of the cut. I have been cutting on 1 or 2" foam for so long, I do not recall if I ever tested it both ways.

Can anyone chime in and tell me their experiences.

 

[Eli]

I think the foam is the best way to get totally clean underneath, but I've used a double layer of cardboard the same.

 

[clintholeman]

I've been using MDF lately and it works ok.  I haven't noticed any real additional splintering, though, I've been moving pretty quickly.

I used foam for a long time, and then one day I was in a hurry and the foam was totally trashed, didn't have time to get another sheet and just used the MDF and liked it...

 

[rblaustein]

That's a great setup.  I built something somewhat similar and I love using it.  It is also a knock-down system that I first learned about from this thread on SawMillCreek:http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=8083
It doesn't use your torsion box design, but it works great.  I put an old sheet of 4x8 ply on it, then a 4x8 2" thick sheet of foil-backed foam insulation a la John Lucas, then the piece of ply I want to break down.  Works like a charm and very easy to set up and take down and then store.  The 2" thick insulation is pretty rigid, and I could probably just use that without the bottom plywood sheet, but I like to have a nice substrate to support clamps if I want to clamp the rails wherever I want.