My small shop

[travisj]

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[travisj]

The combination gives enough working area to break down sheet goods.

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[Rhino1789]

That is one awesome outfeed table set up. Can you tell us more about how the outfeed table is attached to your table saw? I especially like how this unit is able to cut down sheet goods. Nice work.

 

[travisj]

Thank you.  When I built the table, I made furring strips on the back angle iron of the table saw rail to set the height so the MDF sat just a hair shy of the table saw.  My original intent was to countersink some screws through the MDF into the furring strips to fasten everything into one solid unit.  However, in practice, I found that it hasn't been necessary yet.  Everything is heavy enough that nothing moves.  The furring strips but up to the supports for the MDF and the top is sandwiched between the saw and the maple edge of the bench.  I have had the top slide a little occasionally towards the wall, but not enough to force me to do anything yet.  I slightly lifted the top to take a picture.  The furring strips can be seen along the right side and one as well as one of the supports perpendicular to it.

 

[travisj]

About a year ago, I came upon this thread (http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-wall0-mounted-boom-arm/) by [member=30149]secutanudu[/member] concerning a DIY boom arm he created.  I purchased the necessary pieces awhile ago, but finally got around to making a version for myself.  It was dirt simple and works amazingly.  I picked up a tapered sleeved hose when they were getting clearanced out (actually 2 of them).  I have one on the tool end of my boom arm and I connected my original 27mm hose (with the proper parts) to that hose to run to my CT26 which now resides under the extension table of my table saw.  It solved a few problems for me.  It keeps the hose off of the floor and it keeps my CT out of the way, freeing up floor space.

 

[travisj]

[big grin]

 

[Rhino1789]

Thank you.  When I built the table, I made furring strips on the back angle iron of the table saw rail to set the height so the MDF sat just a hair shy of the table saw.  My original intent was to countersink some screws through the MDF into the furring strips to fasten everything into one solid unit.  However, in practice, I found that it hasn't been necessary yet.  Everything is heavy enough that nothing moves.  The furring strips but up to the supports for the MDF and the top is sandwiched between the saw and the maple edge of the bench.  I have had the top slide a little occasionally towards the wall, but not enough to force me to do anything yet.  I slightly lifted the top to take a picture.  The furring strips can be seen along the right side and one as well as one of the supports perpendicular to it.

Simple and effective, love it. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Vondawg]

Travis - in regards to your PCS tablesaw...did you find 1 3/4 hp to be way under powered? I’m assuming you did to go to the 3hp conversion. Great space to work!

 

[travisj]

Travis - in regards to your PCS tablesaw...did you find 1 3/4 hp to be way under powered? I’m assuming you did to go to the 3hp conversion. Great space to work!

It was really struggling one day cutting through some 8/4 hard maple that had a lot of tension in it.  Tripped the 20amp breaker a few times.  Also tripped the internal breaker several times.  That was what pushed me over the edge.  But that was the only time I ever had an issue in almost 6 years.  Honestly, I converted more because I could and less because I needed to.  At our old house 230v was not easy to get to the garage whereas now, I had to run the new circuit for the saw all of 5 feet.

There are definitely benefits to the 3hp version (power, lower amp draw, etc...).  It also took care of my breaker issue on the rest of that maple.  Also the conversion is relatively easy and very straightforward.  It was about $550ish IIRC for the necessary motor, strut, and cabling.  So overall I am into the saw for about $200 over PCS3.0 retail.

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[krudawg]

Thank you.  I have been pretty happy with everything.  My biggest problem is that since my shop time is limited I tend to try to rush things.  It tends to create problems at times.  I need to learn to slow down a bit.  Being organized should help.

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What model Sjoberg Workbench is that?  Elite 1500?  I really like those custom built draws.

 

[Cheese]

I like your Vac Sys mount and also the double deep Systainer drawers. How do you know remember what's behind what?

 

[travisj]

What model Sjoberg Workbench is that?  Elite 1500?  I really like those custom built draws.

It is a Nordic Plus 1500.  I think it is their entry level option.  I have been really happy with it.  I did not care for the cabinet that Sjoberg’s makes for this line of benches.  Flimsy and small.  My drawer box is twice as big and much better built for about the same money.

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[travisj]

I like your Vac Sys mount and also the double deep Systainer drawers. How do you know remember what's behind what?

Thanks! 

The VacSys mount is basically the one in the Conturo manual.  I drilled a series of mounting holes so that I can move the t-track hardware and use it vertically on my bench or on my MFT.  However I have found that I like it as posted in the pictures.  I can just slide it over when I need it or back to the wall and it is out of the way.

As for the double deep drawers, I grouped my systainers to make it easier.  One drawer is all VacSys, one is my two Carvex systainers, one is my two Domino 500 systainers, three drawers are sanders.  It isn’t as hard to keep track as I thought it would be.

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[ChuckM]

[quote
Snip.

It was really struggling one day cutting through some 8/4 hard maple that had a lot of tension in it.  Tripped the 20amp breaker a few times.  Also tripped the internal breaker several times.  That was what pushed me over the edge.  But that was the only time I ever had an issue in almost 6 years. 

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[/quote]

Mine is 1.75HP and to rip 8/4 materials (once in a blue moon), I use two passes. Lumber should be acclimatized in your shop before ripping.

 

[CherryHatchetWoodworks]

This is really inspiring. [smile] That outfeed table is genius. Did you design it in Sketchup or the old fashioed pencil and paper way?

 

[travisj]

This is really inspiring. [smile] That outfeed table is genius. Did you design it in Sketchup or the old fashioed pencil and paper way?

Thank you!  I did it the old fashioned way.  Pencil sketch and then modified it as I went.

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[Kevin D.]

Hey Travis.  You did some same or similar things that I've done in my small one car sized garage.  Getting the DC motor onto the wall being one of them.

I also looked at your MFT table and it just looks like another version but smaller of mine.  I added the ability to lock down the MFT to the surface of the tabletop and even have it overhang for a variety of purposes.  Mine also does double duty as an infeed table for my Unisaw.

I really like your TS outfeed table.  Looks slick and practical.  Wish mine would have been that easy, but because of the mechanism of my Excalibur fence which requires components to be able to move freely on the back side of my saw below the surface, I had to take another route.

Here are old pics of mine that I offer to further inspire you or give you some ideas for yours.  There's been a lot of updates since I took those pics, but that's the beauty of a shop, doing upgrades and enhancements as time goes by.

 

[Kevin D.]

Hmmmm....a lot of pics didn't load up.  Must've hit the volume limit for such.  Here's the rest....

 

[Kevin D.]

Some upgrade/enhancements to my Jessem router table setup since those previous pics....

 

[Kevin D.]

More stuff updated....