Name for "rubber anchor for posts"

[4nthony]

I'm looking for some rubber inserts that would be very similar to the Rockler inserts used for storing Forstner bits.

I have some house numbers that use small studs to secure them to the wall. I'm installing mine in wood paneling but I don't want to permanently attach them with epoxy. I was hoping to find some rubber inserts/anchors that I could insert into a hole in the wall, then insert the studs into the rubber anchor to secure them via friction fit.

My computer uses similar pieces -- though much smaller -- for securing the hard drive tray in the chassis.

I'm sure they exist but I haven't found the right search term to locate them. Any thoughts on what they're called or where to source them?

Thanks!

 

[Paul_HKI]

Would you not just use a piece of rubber vacuum/fuel/oil/water hose?  Lots of options to match the drilled hole bore and the mounting rod/studs.

It'll cost you pennies at your local auto parts store for a short piece to suit.

 

[Frank-Jan]

I was thinking to dip the end in plastidip or something similar. But I searched for rubber bushing and from the names with the pictures, the ones  that are similar are called "top hat grommets"

 

[4nthony]

Would you not just use a piece of rubber vacuum/fuel/oil/water hose?  Lots of options to match the drilled hole bore and the mounting rod/studs.

I thought about that but was thinking the piece of hose would just get pushed through into the wall. The lip might help hold it in place.

I was thinking to dip the end in plastidip or something similar. But I searched for rubber bushing and from the names with the pictures, the ones  that are similar are called "top hat grommets"

Awesome. I just looked them up and that looks like it. Perfect name for these things, too. [cool]

 

[4nthony]

Would you not just use a piece of rubber vacuum/fuel/oil/water hose?  Lots of options to match the drilled hole bore and the mounting rod/studs.

On second thought, you're probably right. I should first put the hose on the post, then insert the post into the hole in the wall. Different way of looking at it but ultimately the same result. And no chance of losing the rubber into the wall.

 

[Vtshopdog]

I’ve always done post type sign letters and house numerals with clear silicone in the holes followed by taping them to the wall or sign board until dry.

Works great

 

[cpw]

I think if you drill the hole you might as well screw or silicone them in.  Once the hole is in there, you'd have to fill them anyway if you remove them.

 

[4nthony]

Even better idea to use the silicone. It'll securely hold the numbers in place but won't be as permanent as epoxy. I also don't need to drill the hole completely through the siding.

I really need to stop overthinking simple things like this.  [embarassed]

 

[dwillis]

4nthony- I have the same style of house numbers (probably from the same company) and have been wrestling with how to attach them to Hardi panel siding. I like your solution and am going to steal it with pride. Thanks!!

 

[4nthony]

4nthony- I have the same style of house numbers (probably from the same company) and have been wrestling with how to attach them to Hardi panel siding. I like your solution and am going to steal it with pride. Thanks!!

Cool [cool]

If they're from the same company, you probably got a paper template for setting up the holes. I didn't like the spacing between the numbers on my template so I opted to transfer the holes to a piece of MDF that I'll use as a physical template for drilling the holes on the wall.

 

[Vtshopdog]

The silicone will work great.

Years ago I made a 30’ long sign for my business from 2 layers of beautifully finished 3/4” Luan plywood with aluminum trim.  Probably $2k of materials and many hours of labor. Was actually my first track saw project.

We had about 30 raised letters on the sign and it was a really weird feeling to drill 100+ Swiss cheese holes in the wood to mount them after all that finish work on the slabs. When I retired I saved the ply, cleaned it up , plugged the holes and reassembled some of it with my Domino to make work bench tops.

 

[Cheese]

[member=75283]4nthony[/member] is this what you want to accomplish?  I made one length of the bevel cedar siding removable so if there were any future issues I could readily service the back-lit numbers or electrical connectors.

[attachimg=1]

 

[scb_yyz]

Google "well nut".  These are used to hold motorcycle windscreens on.

 

[woodwise]

I believe you may be looking for Insulating Rivet Nuts...https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical-insulating-rivet-nuts/

Good luck

 

[4nthony]

[member=75283]4nthony[/member] is this what you want to accomplish?  I made one length of the bevel cedar siding removable so if there were any future issues I could readily service the back-lit numbers or electrical connectors.

Yesterday when I was putting the template together, I joked to my wife that it would be cool if the numbers were illuminated to cast a subtle glow. Those numbers look cool, [member=44099]Cheese[/member] Great idea with the removable run of siding for access.

At my previous house, I made a set of oversized numbers to act like a drop shadow for some surface mounted numbers I picked up on clearance from a big box store. I was planning to paint them grey or black but I moved before installing them and never got a picture of them on the wall.

I was thinking of doing something similar with the new house numbers. The MDF drilling template could be cut into a background for the numbers and supported with the posts. I could make multiple versions of the background based on a holidays or other events throughout the year (I'm a bit of a holiday decorating scrooge but the wife would be stoked to have some kind of outside decoration, even if it is small).

It could be a fun little design feature but would require that the numbers are removable.

I believe you may be looking for Insulating Rivet Nuts...https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical-insulating-rivet-nuts/

Google "well nut".  These are used to hold motorcycle windscreens on.

Thanks guys. I'll look for those options as well.

 

[Packard]

The generic term for this is “stand-off”, usually found as “stand-off for signs”.  They come in various diameters and various lengths and a variety of finishes.

I use the 25mm diameter x 25mm height stainless steel version for leather cabinet handles.  I find it makes a more comfortable handle than Chicago screws. I use Lock-tire to keep the cap from unthreading.

Amazon sells several varieties. 
https://www.google.com/search?q=standoffs+for+signs&client=firefox-b-1-m&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwis5Yi_04D5AhWIkokEHQ14BtIQ_AUoAnoECAkQBA&biw=1121&bih=712&dpr=2

 

[4nthony]

Thanks [member=74278]Packard[/member]

Turned out that I didn't need inserts or even silicone. I drilled all the holes to a specific depth and after inserting the posts, they have a fair amount of friction making them nice and snug. I'll see what happens as the wood expands and contracts but as of now, they're being held in place really well.