Neat Sanding Trick

[Birdhunter]

I’m an old dog but I just learned a new trick. I needed to remove some wayward glue from the inside of a box lid I made for a charity. I just couldn’t find the right tool.

I ended up trimming the round end of a tongue depressor off square. I had some rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper. I fitted some 80 grit on one side of the tongue depressor and 180 grit on the other.  I then had a very flexible sanding tool that allowed me to get into the corners hiding the dried glue.

The tongue depressor can be trimmed to fit any corner and carry any grit paper. Neat!

 

[hdv]

I do something similar. I have a set of putty knives with different widths that I attach sanding paper to with spray-on glue. That type of glue makes it real easy to remove the paper and glue new paper onto the knife when the old paper is done (Yeah, I know, I should replace the paper before using that one again...  [embarassed] ).  After glueing the new paper I trace the outline with a knife and am ready to go. It is just a few moments work.

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[wpz]

Hi [member=15289]Birdhunter[/member]

Instead of sticking sandpaper to tongue depressors, you can buy nail files which are basically the same thing: a stick with some sandpaper stuck to it. They come in several different grits (80, 100, 120 150, 180, 240) and you can find them in manicure and pedicure shops or also on amazon: just search for "nail files" or "JPACO" (a brand of nail files).

Or ask your wife for some  [big grin]
They are really handy if you have to sand small stuff or in tight spaces.

wpz

 

[derekcohen]

Why not use a scraper instead?

The Lee Valley detail scraper is great for small areas ...

Link:https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/110314-detail-hand-scraper

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Birdhunter]

I have 2 of those scrapers. I find they tend to damage the adjoining “wall” when scraping glue out of a corner.

 

[ChuckM]

Frankly, for corner edges. glue squeeze-out is best dealt with through prevention, especially in tight spaces such as a box or even a smaller cabinet. If I use PVA glue, I either tape the adjacent surfaces or wipe off the glue (which is not done in the manner you see Norm do it in New Yankee Workshop! [eek]). Or, use hide glue (Old Brown glue makes life easier -https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/adhesives/glue/69158-old-brown-glue) which can be cleaned with water even after it is cured (but I do it before as it is much easier to do).

In the unlikely event that I have to clean up a squeeze-out, I use a sharp chisel with extreme care working from both sides if possible to avoid gouging any surface. That may not be possible, however, in tight corners.

 

[rst]

Birdhunter, I use Bahco scrapers and to prevent damage to the adjoining area I use the same trick that I use with my oscillating tool...use a piece of clear stiff plastic packaging or from a liquid container between the tool and surface.  I use a piece of thin polypropylene with my Fein but you can use something from packaging for the same protection. 

 

[Cheese]

I'm with Chuck, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I always keep a wet shop towel near when I'm doing any glue-ups. The traditional shop/mechanics towel is thin enough to be able to get into tight corners using a small screwdriver blade.

 

[hdv]

That is a much nicer looking scraper than mine! I have one from Woodpeckers. But there are situations where I don't dare use it. Besides, another reason I like the putty knives with sandpaper is that they can be used to sand wood in places where I wouldn't be able to reach otherwise. It don't use them for spilled glue removal only. But you are right, if you have the skill to not damage the wood, a scraper could be the right tool for it. I often tend to press too hard or slightly rotate the scraper and mar the wood. Still learning and striving to get better...

 

[HarveyWildes]

Frankly, for corner edges. glue squeeze-out is best dealt with through prevention, especially in tight spaces such as a box or even a smaller cabinet. If I use PVA glue, I either tape the adjacent surfaces or wipe off the glue (which is not done in the manner you see Norm do it in New Yankee Workshop! [eek] ). Or, use hide glue (Old Brown glue makes life easier - https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/adhesives/glue/69158-old-brown-glue) which can be cleaned with water even after it is cured (but I do it before as it is much easier to do).

In the unlikely event that I have to clean up a squeeze-out, I use a sharp chisel with extreme care working from both sides if possible to avoid gouging any surface. That may not be possible, however, in tight corners.

I agree.  When I dry fit, I put blue tape in the corners.  I don't like wiping glue off with water because it can blotch on a lot of woods, and because the water raises the grain.  I often dry sand interior surfaces to 400-600 grit before assembly, so raising grain just doubles the sanding effort, and the second round involves sanding in corners.  If I'm watching, I can pull the tape off before the glue hardens too much.

For whatever gets past the blue tape, using chisels is my first fallback.  I prefer to use a skew chisel.  I would echo the "extreme care from both sides" technique.  In addition to gouging, I have tried to pop off a dried glue blob after cutting one side, and popped out a wood splinter on the other side.  Sometimes the glue is just that good.

Drawer and box bottoms give me the most trouble.  If I have enough room I use a chisel bevel down.  I have a Woodpeckers mini-scraper that is a lot like the one Derek mentioned, but my favorite is a larger scraper (blade about 1" x 1.5") that has a trapezoidal shape.  This one is great because you can get right into a 90 degree corner while only scraping one side.  It enables me to control cross-grain scraper tear-out better than the square inserts that the Woodpecker scraper uses.  I you only have a scraper with square blades, experiment with scraping angles to minimize scraper tear-out.

Finally, for working corners with chisels, I like to wait until the glue is just barely dry.  Ideally, no goo, not even crusted over goo, but still somewhat soft - a little after the point at which I would pull off the tape.  Of course it doesn't always happen that way...

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
If I'm watching, I can pull the tape off before the glue hardens too much.

Same here...most of the time, unless the glue-up is done (rarely) late at night, and it's about bed time.

 

[bkharman]

I'm with Chuck, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I always keep a wet shop towel near when I'm doing any glue-ups. The traditional shop/mechanics towel is thin enough to be able to get into tight corners using a small screwdriver blade.

A simple plastic straw (if you can find them :^) ) works really well. I have been doing that in corners for a loooong time.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Birdhunter]

The inside of this box was lined with Spanish cedar which smells great, but is very soft and very absorbent. I’ve had fibers pulled off peeling blue tape off a glue up. I’ve had problems wiping off glue with a damp rag. The pores seem to soak up the glue.

 

[ChuckM]

A simple plastic straw (if you can find them :^) ) works really well. I have been doing that in corners for a loooong time.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried that with inconsistent results, even with the straw front cut like a spear or pointed. To the naked eye, it seemed to work, but then the glue residue showed up after a finish was coated. I no longer use it because of the hit-or-miss experience.

 

[bkharman]

A simple plastic straw (if you can find them :^) ) works really well. I have been doing that in corners for a loooong time.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried that with inconsistent results, even with the straw front cut like a spear or pointed. To the naked eye, it seemed to work, but then the glue residue showed up after a finish was coated. I no longer use it because of the hit-or-miss experience.

Maybe a combination of frog tape/painters tape in the corners with the straw will yield better results. If the wood is porous, I could see this happening.

Cheers. Bryan.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sparktrician]

I either tape the adjacent surfaces or wipe off the glue.

In the unlikely event that I have to clean up a squeeze-out, I use a sharp chisel with extreme care working from both sides if possible to avoid gouging any surface. That may not be possible, however, in tight corners.

I'm another one that uses tape and a very sharp chisel with my usual Titebond III.  [smile]

 

[dragoneggs]

I'll have to try the straw trick.... maybe thin walled straw is best?  I'm been going back to Titebond II instead of III.  Finding the squeeze out mess to be less and the cleanup easier with a hard plastic scraper, putty knife, or razorblade depending on how hard the cure is at the time.

 

[mkasdin]

Try using a glue brush either titebond or rockier. That way you will get better coverage and consistent film. I’m guessing you lay down a bead on both sides, having too much glue is sometimes as bad as too little. I’m guilty of the fore mentioned. An ounce of prevention, blue tape and I use a rag or paper towels either dry or slightly moist depending on the mess at hand? Ditto for the chisel and scraper. Try a mini scraper they are easy to get into tight spots. I’ve heard of the plastic straw trick, just never used it...