Need Advice - Cabinet Underlighting/Outlet Strip

[Bugsysiegals]

Thanks @cheese!

As I think more about the outlet on the wall, with the cabinet flush to the wall, this doesn’t work out so well without cutting some hole in the back of the cabinet which probably will not look so great.

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[Cheese]

As I think more about the outlet on the wall, with the cabinet flush to the wall, this doesn’t work out so well without cutting some hole in the back of the cabinet which probably will not look so great.

If space for a driver is a problem, Diode LED released a driver that fits within a single wall box and it also incorporates an on/off switch & a dimmer as well. That's what I went to for the kitchen. It's pretty slick for certain applications as they come in 40/60/100 watt versions.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Wow, that’s cool and good to know about.

As I was searching I found this ulta-thin wall plate. Depending on how far the back is recessed this seems like it could fit behind the cabinet and then I’d only need a small hole through the back to route this cable in for the driver and the 18/2 out for the LED lights.  Unfortunately the dimensions don’t seem to align with the pictures so I’m not certain how thick it is ...

Sleek Socket Ultra-Thin Electrical Outlet Cover | Hides Ugly & Unsafe Plugs & Cords | 9 ft. Standard Size Outlet Cover with 3 Outlet Power Strip | UL/CSA Safety Certifiedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NPK9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZeGcEbTYVTJ7P

 

[cpw]

For my frameless cabinets, I hid my transformer in the cabinet above the oven that conceals the range hood ducting.  I then ran the low voltage wires behind the cabinets to puck lights in the bottom of my 3/4" using the true position puck light jig.  That doesn't get you strips, but it is another very low profile option you could think about.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

Thanks @cpw for sharing.

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[Cheese]

Unfortunately the dimensions don’t seem to align with the pictures so I’m not certain how thick it is ...

Well that's certainly pretty slick...thanks for that.  [smile]

It appears to be 1/2" thick but that includes the thickness of the existing electrical plate.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Thanks [member=44099]Cheese[/member]!!

I see some people attach 1/4” backs with staples while others recess back panels with dados.  I want to say the recessed version has always been 3/4” recess in order that 3/4” stretchers can be placed top/bottom behind the back panel for secure mounting of the cabinet but I’m just a noob so I could be wrong.  Based on what you shared, if I was to recess the back 3/4”, I’d be able to use this and only have to poke a small hole into the back for wires to/from the driver which isn’t bad and could be easily hidden.  I think this makes sense since it would allow me to finish drywalling now and connect the LED’s later when I’ve built the cabinets.

 

[xedos]

Euro cabinets aren't anything to be wary of when trying to conceal lights.  We have been recessing lights in to the bottom of cabinets for two decades now.  Starting with 55mm dia. Halogen Puck lites last century and currently using LED profiles like Cheese shows. 

You just drill or route a recess into the bottom of the cabinet and drill a long hole through the back into that recess for the wire.  Mount the light and feed the wire or wires behind the backs of the cabinet to the top and your concealed driver location.  Alternately they go into the wall and down into a base cabinet somewhere.  It's all individually designed according to the project.

Now, the cool kids are recessing LED strips in the sidewalls of cabinets to illuminate the entire inside of the box.

 

[Cheese]

Now, the cool kids are recessing LED strips in the sidewalls of cabinets to illuminate the entire inside of the box.

Similar to what's being done in showers and bathrooms.

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[Bugsysiegals]

Wow, I guess I need to browse Houzz or something more often, I'd not seen people using the LED strips in the bathrooms!  My Master Bathroom remodel is next after these cabinets so this is great info, thanks!

My son got some Govee LED's for Christmas and I helped him to stick them near the top border of his bedroom.  They can change color, brightness, and flicker as it hears noise which I guess is cool as a teenager. 

I've color changing LIFX bulbs in the bedroom and while I don't use the RGB colors (I'd setup IFTTT to flash them Red based on security cameras but I quickly quit after so many false positives), I do appreciate being able to change through the different shades of White (2500 Ultra Warm, 2750 Incandescent, etc., etc.). 

I've also some LED canned lights with a switch on the bottom of the bulb for a few different shades of White.  It would be really nice to be able to set the different shades of White from Warm to Cool White based on the room (room, time, mood, etc. or possibly even change to a light Blue, Red, etc. to accent the rooms color.

It seems all the LED's which produce White come in predetermined Kelvin other than the Dazzle series ... can these be set to the various Kelvins of White?  Are these the only series they sell which do this?

I also see they've Infiniline DRIVERLESS LED's ... I can't see the price so I'm not sure if these are comparable but I suppose this could be another option as I could connect them directly to a wall outlet without having to hide a driver, etc.

 

[Cheese]

Well those Infiniline LED's are certainly interesting. [smile]  They're non-cuttable LED strips so they're custom built to the length needed. Being a Diode LED product they won't be inexpensive. They also appear to be non-dimming and they are quite bright at 300/350 lumens per foot.

The Diode LED Ultra Blaze under counter kitchen LED's I installed for task lighting are 360 lumens per foot. The Ultra Blaze, tape only, sells for $20 per foot.

You'll probably want something in the 150/250 lumen range and dimmable.

Here's a shot of 100 lumens per foot LED's in a built-in cabinet I'm making just to give you some perspective.

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[Cheese]

It also appears that the Infiniline Driverless System isn't really driverless.  [huh]  I suppose it has its uses but in this form it's rather clunky.

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[xedos]

Cheese, got any experience with that switchX ?

Around here , inspectors hate 110v and low voltage wires in the same box. It will pass as long as the box is divided and the wires enter/exit separated and don't mix within.  They still don't like it.

I'm having difficulty seeing how that gizmo would work for us.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I ordered that ultra thin wall plate extension cord.  It fits nicely and will do the trick just fine, at least for the LED's. 

Now I'm wondering if I should also use it for the outlet strip since it's rated at 13A.  I don't intend to run anything large in the dining room other than my espresso machine which is only 10A which is under 80% load of the 13A.  I believe the circuit itself is only 15A so it's not like I'm giving up a whole lot to use this extension cord from a wall outlet to an outlet strip versus Romex directly to an outlet strip.  What you feel comfortable powering an outlet strip from the extension mentioned before or would you use Romex?

 

[Cheese]

Cheese, got any experience with that switchX ?

Around here , inspectors hate 110v and low voltage wires in the same box. It will pass as long as the box is divided and the wires enter/exit separated and don't mix within.  They still don't like it.

I'm having difficulty seeing how that gizmo would work for us.

[member=67935]xedos[/member] Yes I installed a 60 watt unit to power 11 feet of Diode LED Ultra Blaze under cabinet lighting along with 6 feet of LED's that illuminate a crack in a walnut slab/countertop.

It works well. There is a small plastic separator at the rear of the switch that separates the low voltage wiring from the high voltage wiring. Thus it meets code.

In the winter the Switchex is on for 10-12 hours per day and it's been working fine for the last 2 years. Here's a shot of the initial setup using alligator clips just to make sure there were no issues with the LEDs or the Switchex before I permanently installed everything.

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[tjbnwi]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member],

nice mixer, I have the 6000HD and an Artisen 500.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member],

nice mixer, I have the 6000HD and an Artisen 500.

Tom

Ya, it's sweet Tom. as we both know, it takes time to cook from scratch and most of the time we probably short circuit the process to accelerate the meal preparation and just get done with the meal.

I have the pasta accessories for the Kitchen Aid and I've never had better pasta...seriously. The stuff just melts in your mouth. I've yet to have better pasta whether dining out or dining in. My only regret is I don't take the time often enough to make home made pasta.

It's the best.

 

[Cheese]

Now I'm wondering if I should also use it for the outlet strip since it's rated at 13A.  I don't intend to run anything large in the dining room other than my espresso machine which is only 10A which is under 80% load of the 13A.  I believe the circuit itself is only 15A so it's not like I'm giving up a whole lot to use this extension cord from a wall outlet to an outlet strip versus Romex directly to an outlet strip.  What you feel comfortable powering an outlet strip from the extension mentioned before or would you use Romex?

If this was my project, I'd probably go for the separate Romex feeds to the wall outlet. While the new cooly-O wall outlet will handle the load, i tend to weigh in on the conservative side of this equation and wire directly when possible.