Need advice from someone with Hammer N4400 who likes it

[dhoover1027]

For what it's worth, I've had a Hammer N4400 for about 7 years now and it's one of those tools that are better than I am. I've had many a car on the racetrack that were a ton better than I and in the same way will punish you until you up your skills. This just me not anyone else.
I got the plans for the Hammer chair and it is 90% made on the N4400. I learned a lot about bandsaws and my lack of skills trying to make this chair. The chair turned out pretty well. It looks like a piece of art, but the most uncomfortable thing in the world.
I ended up taking the entire red blade guard off and put it in a drawer. This has made it easier to use. A bit more dangerous, so I really need my wits at a high level when I use it. More coffee.
I also bought a set of Carter Products bearing guides. A lot easier to set up and adjust especially when you change blades to a different size. David Best (Felder Owners Group) , another fog - a message here ? published a guide to ordering and installing these guides along with part numbers and some modifications you need to do to the Carter adapter bar for the lower guides. If anyone wants a copy, I can make a PDF and email it to you. Just PM me and include your email address.
You will need:
GP-stud347.  347 offset stud 20mmx7/16      2 each
GA-2300LH.    2300LH upper guide assy.          1 each
GA-2300RH.    2300RH lower guide assy.          1 each.
This made a big difference in how the saw performs for me and they are easier to adjust that the OEM guides. I have never used ceramic guides, so no comparison here.
Yes, Felder advice will not deviate from dogma. We don't want to have you hurt yourself. My blades ride towards the center.
And I'll never make another chair !
Doug

 

[dhoover1027]

Here is a good setup guide.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/tune-bandsaw

 

[billberner]

...and it's one of those tools that are better than I am. I've had many a car on the racetrack that were a ton better than I and in the same way will punish you until you up your skills.

That is definitely the perspective I have as well.  I sometimes feel like I'm learning to play an instrument.  But I'll get there and I appreciate the tips I've received. 

 

[junk731]

Based on the various feedback I received (thank you!) I both purchased the ceramic guides and I made a tall auxiliary resaw fence.  Now I seem to get cuts that are much smoother and straighter. That said, I do not seem to be able to adjust the ceramic guides so I do not get sparks.  The install manual indicates that you should back the guides off the blade if it is sparking, but I do that and it seems to spark worse.  and eventually I had them backed off more than I did for the standard guides, which doesn't make any sense.

Anyone else seen this?  Or know what I might try to eliminate the sparks?

Don't worry about sparks unless they are continuous, typically it means the guides are set tight enough and will go away. The Felder ceramic guides are a pain to setup properly and take a light touch, I much prefer the Laguna guides I put on my FB600, much easier to setup. Proper blade tension is much more important in a bandsaw that's properly setup.

John

 

[billberner]

I thought I would reply once more to this thread as I finally figured out how to get rid of the sparks on my Hammer N4400, but I'm not sure what I'm doing makes sense.  The only help I got from Felder was to "look at their setup guide" and "make sure the blade is parallel to the ceramic guide."  My sparks were coming from the bottom of the ceramic disk, so I assumed the disk was tilted backward with respect to the blade, but I was not able to tilt it forward far enough to make it coplanar and still tighten down.  so what I ended up doing was sticking two small wood wedges above the guide holder as shown in the attached photo.  These rotate it so that it is parallel to the blade and now I have no sparks.  But for a $1800 saw, $350 or whatever ceramic guides, it does not seem wood shims should be necessary, but I could not get rid of the sparks any other way.    Anyone see any problems with this solution? 

 

[Prizen]

I’m aware this is an old thread but I’m having similar issues with my newly delivered N4400.
Standard guides here, no ceramic. I have tried to cut a 4” laminate of oak (1”) and birch ply (3”) but it really struggles. It’s with the as delivered blade installed, but can this blade be actually that bad? It is sharp to the touch and I have only cut 5ft linear of 1/2” ply as the very first cuts prior to this 4” block. The saw really struggles, sparks occasionally and it is nigh on impossible to make a turn

Any thoughts? The blade? If its poor quality then I expect it to blunt quickly but at least work satisfactorily for the first number of feet!

 

[derekcohen]

Hi Prizen

My advice on the UK forum remains the same, and I repeat it here for others who are interested, and those who may wish to comment: 

My assumption would be that you need MUCH more tension on the blade. The lack of tension translates into the blade not gripping the wheel and the power is not being transferred. Plus the blade wanders, and the cut is poor. Sparks are probably coming off the guides as the blades touches it.

Note that the blade tension meter is just a guide to tension. Add more until you see minimal deflection.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[ben_r_]

I’m aware this is an old thread but I’m having similar issues with my newly delivered N4400.
Standard guides here, no ceramic. I have tried to cut a 4” laminate of oak (1”) and birch ply (3”) but it really struggles. It’s with the as delivered blade installed, but can this blade be actually that bad? It is sharp to the touch and I have only cut 5ft linear of 1/2” ply as the very first cuts prior to this 4” block. The saw really struggles, sparks occasionally and it is nigh on impossible to make a turn

Any thoughts? The blade? If it’s poor quality then I expect it to blunt quickly but at least work satisfactorily for the first number of feet!

Yours came with a blade?! What are the specs on the blade?

 

[accent]

Hi, I know this thread is a bit dated, but the issue is still relevant. I have had my N4400 for nearly 8 years and have had very little success cutting a straight line as the blade (and the whole top assembly) wanders from side to side uncontrollably. I’ve tried a few different blades and reset the blade to the top of the wheel as well as having the teeth hanging over. The one thing that seems odd to me is that the lower guides are a long way below the table, even when cranked up as high as they go.
I have had some good days and find cutting curves or follow a template not an issue. Cutting plays for laminating though is near impossible. Has anyone found a way to ‘tame’ this saw?

 

[Mini Me]

The Snodgrass method does not apply to flat wheel bandsaws so ignore it.

Back off all the guides

Tension the blade

Set the tracking as per the manual with the teeth hanging off the edge of the wheel

Loosen all the table bolts and align the mitre slot to the blade then tighten the bolts

Align the fence to be parallel to the mitre slot

Check the fence is square to the table top surface

Turn the machine on and enjoy using a well behaved bandsaw

Check and adjust if necessary that the table is square to the blade in both directions

Set the guides correctly

If it still does not cut parallel to the fence the blade is blunt or simply wrong or there is not enough tension despite what the inbuilt gauge says.

 

[derekcohen]

Hi, I know this thread is a bit dated, but the issue is still relevant. I have had my N4400 for nearly 8 years and have had very little success cutting a straight line as the blade (and the whole top assembly) wanders from side to side uncontrollably. I’ve tried a few different blades and reset the blade to the top of the wheel as well as having the teeth hanging over. The one thing that seems odd to me is that the lower guides are a long way below the table, even when cranked up as high as they go.
I have had some good days and find cutting curves or follow a template not an issue. Cutting plays for laminating though is near impossible. Has anyone found a way to ‘tame’ this saw?

My money is on the blade having too little tension. If not, the easiest solution is to get Felder to sort this out. It may be that the wheels need to be made coplanar. I have had my N4400 for about 10 years, it is used very often, and it has worked perfectly ... except for one occasion, when the tire became loose a few months ago. I purchased a new tire, but in the meantime glued down the old one, and it has continued to work perfectly since.

Regards from Perth

Derek