Need advice on erasing a 35mm boo-boo.

[BarryL]

Todd I am laughing like an idiot ovr here and I SWEAR it has noting to do with that six pak of Harp...

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Barry,

You now what I really love....the toilet seats that are molded out of particle board material...

I have had the pleasure to snap a few of those babies in my time.....lol

Can those be repaired?

...and nobody better say "yes, with Bondo..."

Best,
Todd

 

[tbellemare]

How 'bout Bondo mixed w/ sawdust?

Tom

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Sorry Tom, but only if it is sheet metal or fiberglass mixed with particle board for the original material... ;D

Best,
Todd

 

[butzla]

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Update.....after many failed attempts at making some plugs with my cheap circle cutter...
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...I decided to go with good ole bondo.  First coat:
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Second coat:
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After sanding with RO150 (80 & 120g Rubin) then finish with ETS125 (180 Brilliant):
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I figure these are, afterall,  utility cabinets and paint grade at that so a little contraction just adds character to their rustic nature (I'm rationalizing).  I'll post followup pictures down the road if any exp/cont. occurs.

 

[richard.selwyn]

I was interested by this thread as I spend far TOO much of the working day making good my all too frequent "lapses".  The repair looks good to me.  I assume "Bondo" is a two part epoxy filler?  Are there problems with shrinkage and wood movement when using such a filler - I often use an epoxy woodfiller for those lapses ?

But what I really want to say is that I wish I was making doors out of that quality of material to start with.  Anything I'm doing that's going to be painted tends to be MDF and Plywood.  Maybe I should plant some trees

 

[bruegf]

Who was it, can't remember, somebody suggested connecting a 'NON' LR rail to the end to keep it aligned. Sounded like a good idea, but I haven't tried it.

I use that technique when drilling shelf support holes in long pieces so I can clamp the rail at both ends.  A bit of a nuisance since you need to move the non-LR rail from one end to the other, but it beats the heck out of not being able to clamp the rail down and wondering if its moving while you're drilling.

 

[butzla]

Richard,  Yes, it's just common 2-part auto-body bondo.  Cures in literally 5 minutes.  Very easy to sand....at least with the RO150 w/ 80g Rubin.  As far as shrinking this has been open for debate in this thread.  I think the best way to repair would be to use a wood plug of the same species and perhaps finger in some caulk after priming.  But my experience said it's no easy task to machine a plug with the method available to me.  Truth be told I had the repair on the back burner when the can of bondo jumped out at me while perusing the paint section of Home Depot.  Time will tell.  I'll keep ya toasted.

PS The wood I used was poplar.  Very inexpensive (~$2.00 bf).  Has very little waste (knots), machines like butter and takes paint very well.  Give 'er a try.

 

[wnagle]

Richard,

I'd like to plant some MDF or Plywood trees... I heard they grow real fast!  Not sure where to get the seeds though...

 

[honeydoman]

glad bondo worked out.  I use the minwax version all the time for wood rot repair, bo bo's etc.  probably about 25 cans a year if not more.  99% for wood rot repair.  but for paint grade I sometimes use it to fill screw holes for pocket screws etc.  sands smooth and clean and doesnot show.

I have done lots of repairs and have gone back to some 2-3 years later and they still look great.  I did a window sill that had a pretty big rot and it worked great, saw it 2 years later and it was still great looking.

in regards to drilling the hindge cup holes, if you do it a lot then get the sommerfeld jig or the blum jig, sommerfeld is 100 bucks less.  plus it drills the little side holes and with the blum hindges that have the screws already in them with a little rubber washer that work great, no errors and just bang them in.  dont even need to line up the hindges for screws as the jig did it already.

I used to use the rockler deal and I tell you the blum or sommerfeld is 10 time better and faster.

 

[robtonya]

I'd have to second the Sommerfeld jig. It's very fast and easy.

 

[richard.selwyn]

Don't seem to have any poplar here.  I'm surrounded by one of France's biggest beech forests, but all the wood used here is either oak (which is never properly dried) or pine which comes from the east of France and is used for roofing timbers etc.

On jigs, I'm tempted to get the Blum jig, but has anyone tried the Veritas one?

 

[honeydoman]

Don't seem to have any poplar here.  I'm surrounded by one of France's biggest beech forests, but all the wood used here is either oak (which is never properly dried) or pine which comes from the east of France and is used for roofing timbers etc.

On jigs, I'm tempted to get the Blum jig, but has anyone tried the Veritas one?

if you are in france you can probley get the blum for a great price.  it will work great... never heard of the veritas one. but the blum has all the stuff in it and it is flawless.

 

[butzla]

For the money,  I think I will buy a FS2424 rail.  I liked drilling the holes with the router and the indexing was a plus.