Need help selecting sander

[Korital]

Hello,

I need some assistance in selecting the correct or best sander for my situation. I am currently  using the  Bosch ROS65VC with both the 5 and 6 inch pad, depending on the paper I have and piece I'm sanding. I'm not sure of it's stroke but it works well and doesn't leave any swirls when staining.

I refinish hardwood floors, occasionally refinish hardwood staircases, and need help selecting the best sander for this type of work. I often use dark Stains so can't have any swirls.

For floors, I need a random orbit sander to eliminate about 2-3 inches of swirl marks left by my super 7 edger. I want to replace the Bosch for better dust containment, as I'm trying to go dust free as much as possible. The Bosch has pretty good vibration control and I can use it for long periods of time. But it is large and heavy if trying to sand anything vertical. The new sander needs good vibration control so I don't feel it in my hands and arms later.

This sander that will replace the Bosch, I'm hoping to also use to refinish stairs. It would need to be able to sand the risers and stringers without going through the veneers but also able to take off the old finish /stain and also sand the treads.

I will also be getting the  RO90 to help when refinishing stairs and corners and other small areas that this other sander won't get into as the ro90 has the Delta pad.

I usually sand up to 80, 100 or, 120 grit depending on the species of wood or if a stain is being applied. Typically on oak, I stop at 100 or 120 if staining, and 80 if no stain. Not sure if this info would help with proper sander selection.

Thanks for the assistance in advance.

 

[ScotF]

I suggest going to a dealer and trying them to make sure the vibration is going to work for you. If it does, then I would look at one of the EC models - probably the ETS EC 125 as that can take both 5 and 6 inch pads, has good speed, brushless, great DC and low profile - it is small enough and lightweight enough to work for overhead work and does well on flats. There is a 5mm orbit of this same sander in a 150mm size if you want bigger pad/faster removal.

I like all the Rotex sanders and a 5 inch and 6 inch might fit the bill, but you would need to check the vibration for long sanding periods.

All the round sanders and the square RTS have accessory foam interface pads to allow for sanding concave and convex surfaces.

 

[Korital]

I suggest going to a dealer and trying them to make sure the vibration is going to work for you. If it does, then I would look at one of the EC models - probably the ETS EC 125 as that can take both 5 and 6 inch pads, has good speed, brushless, great DC and low profile - it is small enough and lightweight enough to work for overhead work and does well on flats. There is a 5mm orbit of this same sander in a 150mm size if you want bigger pad/faster removal.

I like all the Rotex sanders and a 5 inch and 6 inch might fit the bill, but you would need to check the vibration for long sanding periods.

All the round sanders and the square RTS have accessory foam interface pads to allow for sanding concave and convex surfaces.

Thanks for the reply,

Do you think the ETS EC 125/3 would be powerful enough or slow with the following:
1) removing 50 or 60 grit edger swirls with 80grit paper, and then polishing with 100 and 120 grit if needed?
2) removing old finish, usually oil based, on stairs, stringers, risers?

I don't want to blow through the thin veneers on risers and stringers when stripping the old finish so the 3mm stroke would probably be best, but do you think the sander would be powerful enough for those applications without spending a lot of time trying to take swirls or finish off?

I'm probably overthinking it as it looks like the power is relatively the same, the Bosch is 3.3 amp or 400 watts, where the ets ec 125 is 400 watts. the only difference it seems is the stroke pattern which would effect rate of stock removal somewhat.

I looked on Amazon and the description for the Bosch says: "Orbit Diameter: 5/32-Inch
Orbit Radius: 5/64-Inch "
does this mean it has an approximate stroke of 4mm (5/32"). would going from 4 to 3mm be a huge difference in time spent taking out the edger swirls or taking off old finish?

I don't really have a dealer near me to check the performance, so I would be ordering online and having to test at home.

 

[rst]

I have the 125 and 150 ECs, I'm not familiar with the Bosch, but the ECs have brushless motors and have more than enough umph to do what you need.  I personally thing you would be better off with the DTS  for corner work over the RO-90, which I also have.  Or look for the discontinued RX-93 which takes the same triangle paper as the RO.  The RX has better ergonomics than RO.  The RX shows up frequently on Ebay.

 

[Korital]

I have the 125 and 150 ECs, I'm not familiar with the Bosch, but the ECs have brushless motors and have more than enough umph to do what you need.  I personally thing you would be better off with the DTS  for corner work over the RO-90, which I also have.  Or look for the discontinued RX-93 which takes the same triangle paper as the RO.  The RX has better ergonomics than RO.  The RX shows up frequently on Ebay.

Thanks for the suggestion,

The only problem I see with the DTS is the shape of the pad, because of that, once the tip is worn down when sanding a corner the whole paper is unusable whereas with the ro90 the paper can be rotated.

 

[sancho57]

Does your vac /DC allow you to turn the suction down? High suction usually causes swirl marks in wood.

Have you thought about trying that first, before you go buy another sander and get the same thing, swirl marks?

 

[Korital]

Does your vac /DC allow you to turn the suction down? High suction usually causes swirl marks in wood.

Have you thought about trying that first, before you go buy another sander and get the same thing, swirl marks?

I have never gotten swirl marks with a ROS. The swirls mentioned in my original post is due to the nature of said sander and is unavoidable when sanding floors. Every flooring professional that refinishes floors has the exact same problem because edgers are not random orbit and extremely powerful sanders.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think the RO 90 would be the best compliment to a floor edger. And the RX-93 would be best for the final bit of the inside corners if you want the best tool for the specific task. The DTS is so much weaker.

For more general sanding Bosch has a newer version of your current sander (or is that the one you already have?) that has pretty effective isolation from the inherent vibration.

 

[Korital]

I think the RO 90 would be the best compliment to a floor edger. And the RX-93 would be best for the final bit of the inside corners if you want the best tool for the specific task. The DTS is so much weaker.

For more general sanding Bosch has a newer version of your current sander (or is that the one you already have?) that has pretty effective isolation from the inherent vibration.

The RO 90 I think would have too much vibration for me for extended use to use after the edger to get rid of the swirl marks and possibly too small of a pad to make it very effective to sand several hundred linear feet of flooring.
I would be relegating it to basically corner work and sanding in small areas.

What makes the DC 93 better than the RO 90 with the Delta attachment for corner work? I like the dual function of the ro 90. 

I have the Bosch ROS65VC, it's vibration is pretty non-existent and is an excellent sander for flat work like a floor, but im looking for something lighter with similar or better vibration control, that I can also use, in addition to edger swirls, to sand stair treads, risers and stringers.

After looking at the ETS EC 125/3, this looks like to me a good alternative for this work, even if it is 3mm stroke vs the  4mm I think the Bosch I have has.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I was just thinking of the edge of the floor where the edge sander doesn’t go. Forgot you need to knock down the edger’s swirls.

You should also consider Mirka sanders.

The RX-93 is mechanical motion rather than the passive odbit. More aggressive.

 

[Cheese]

I'd seriously consider the ETS EC 125 and set it up with both a 125 and a 150 pad.

I seldom use my RO 90 with the triangular pad, I go straight for the DX 93 instead. As Michael said, the DX 93 is more aggressive than the RO 90 without being overly aggressive...if that makes sense.  [smile]

 

[Korital]

I was just thinking of the edge of the floor where the edge sander doesn’t go. Forgot you need to knock down the edger’s swirls.

You should also consider Mirka sanders.

The RX-93 is mechanical motion rather than the passive odbit. More aggressive.

Which mirka sanders do you have in mind? Are they compatible with the ct dust extractors without much tinkering?

The DX 93 is not sold any more. Might be hard to acquire one in good condition.

 

[Korital]

I'd seriously consider the ETS EC 125 and set it up with both a 125 and a 150 pad.

I seldom use my RO 90 with the triangular pad, I go straight for the DX 93 instead. As Michael said, the DX 93 is more aggressive than the RO 90 without being overly aggressive...if that makes sense.  [smile]

What paper would you use with the ETS EC 125/3 to sand risers and stringers that have old finish life varnish, oil, polyurethane, etc That wouldn't blow through the veneer?

I will check if there are any dx 93 available anywhere, if not would you say the ro90 is the next best choice for corner work?

 

[Michael Kellough]

After the edger there won’t be any finish left. Where the edger doesn’t reach I’d scrape the finish off so ordinary abrasives won’t clog.

RO90 is next best to RX-93.

Mirka Ceros or Deros. If you go that way get the Mirka anti-static hose. Doesn’t cost much and screws right into the sander so no need for that lump of a connector helping to keep the sander lightweight and maneuverable.

 

[Korital]

After the edger there won’t be any finish left. Where the edger doesn’t reach I’d scrape the finish off so ordinary abrasives won’t clog.

I Don't use the edger on the stairs. It is way too big and heavy. High risk of gouging the wood. Therefore, I would need paper for the ETS EC 125, if I go that route, to be able to take old finish off and not gum up, and then other paper where there is no finish and I am just removing edging swirls and polishing. Do you know Which festool paper is best for those applications?

 

[duburban]

Floors?

RO150. No debate, close the thread.

 

[Korital]

Floors?

RO150. No debate, close the thread.

I don't see the value of the  RO 150 for my application. I have 2 inches of edger swirl to take out around the perimeter of rooms, and the RO 150 would be tough to fit on risers and would be awkward to handle vertically I would imagine. And extended use of the ro150 is a concern with its vibration.

Perhaps explain why you think it would be the Superior choice in those applications.

 

[Cheese]

I Don't use the edger on the stairs. It is way too big and heavy. High risk of gouging the wood. Therefore, I would need paper for the ETS EC 125, if I go that route, to be able to take old finish off and not gum up, and then other paper where there is no finish and I am just removing edging swirls and polishing. Do you know Which festool paper is best for those applications?

Ya those things are at least 20-25 pounds. I look at it as an overachieving RO 150.

I’d start with 100 grit and go up or down from there. The  ETS EC can be quite aggressive with coarse grit papers.

 

[ScotF]

Granat paper works great for sanding and removing finishes without gunk in up...just need to slow the sander down. The EC 125 is a good choice, I think, for what you describe.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi [member=70094]Korital[/member]

As you are doing larger areas you need a 150 mm sander.

To completely rule out swirl marks I have found the ETS EC 150/3 to be super and I use Granat all the time.

Peter