Need some advise for making Domino tenon's

[Max Neu]

I was thinking about making some of my tenons for the Domino,making the flat stock is not a problem.I was looking for some tips for the outside edges,since all the sizes have a different radius I can't really see investing in several bullnose shaper cutters.Would just using a 45 degree chamfer be acceptable?
Also,is there any type of wood that holds better than others?I thought oak might be a good choice since it is porus and might hold the glue better.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[nclemmons]

Here are a couple threads on this topic.  I just searched for 'making tenons' and 'making dominos'

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/making-tenons/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/making-dominos/

I don't think you'll notice much of a difference with the variations in round over - the strength is more from the wide faces of the tenon glue surface than the rounded ends.  

I think you could size them with a 1/8 or 3/16 round over and do fine.  Given Festool offers varing width settings with the Domino, a tight end to end fit is not as critical.

Curious why you are making your own versus using those from Festool?  

neil

 

[JerrySats]

I just hit the sides with a block plane to round them off , works fine .

 

[Michael Kellough]

The main function of the radiused edges of the tenons is to maintain tight lateral alignment.
If you use a wider mortise the shape of the tenon's edge is irrelevant. Kust rip it square.

 

[aosty]

The main function of the radiused edges of the tenons is to maintain tight lateral alignment.
If you use a wider mortise the shape of the tenon's edge is irrelevant. Kust rip it square.

Good point... it would also be possible to supplement one or two regular radius Domino's for critical lateral alignment.

 

[Timtool]

I make my tenons round on the router table, with quarter round bits that have the closest radius. Recently i even bought a whole set of proper bits because until now i only used the closest i had.
I wouldn't do this on a shaper as the stock is too small. I make dominos by the thousands for the DF500 with scrap oak or beech material, then i fill old glue buckets with them and it gives me enough for a couple years.
But for the XL i usually make the tenons for each project, because u ise my XL as a mortiser so i make mortises up to 100mm wide. then i go an make the according tenon usually out of the same material as the project.
I do have a preference for oak as it has larger pores that capture glue, beech wood is very smooth. i guess that's why the real dominos have dents.

 

[Max Neu]

Thanks for all the suggestions,they really help!For most general work,I will stick to the festool domino's,but I have some needs for special sizes.One thing in particular that I am working on is making a drawer box system using the domino's to create a strong and nice looking box,but quicker and easier than a dovetail.I decided to use a "through" domino joint,where the domino shows on the outside,which I think looks nice.I plan on using 1/2" sides,with 3/4" front and backs.I will tack the box together with 1 3/16" micro pins to hold it together,then run a 6mm domino slots through the sides,so I am basically mortising both pieces at the same time.I will set the DF500 depth setting at the deepest setting,which still isn't deep enough to tap a 6mm domino in flush with the side of the drawer box,so I will need to cut the domino's down shorter.I figure it will be alot easier to cut domino's from long stock than trying to cut the festool dominos shorter.I am thinking about having one of my suppliers make my 6mm tenon stock,he said he would make it on his 5 head molder for $.35 per ft. out of any material.The initial cost for the knife grinding will be around $60-$80,but I will save that much after a few kitchens vs. buying the festool domino's (which I would have to cut down anyway's).
Since I would be having them made on a molder,should I have small grooves put in the sides and flat surface for some hydraulic relief? 

 

[cje]

You could always glue the domino's into the mortises, then saw them almost flush with a small hand saw and sand them flush.

Another method would be to cut a row of mortises in some scrap wood, put domino's in the mortises and feed them through a band saw using a fence.

Best, Karel

 

[Stoli]

Check out the thread on Domidrawers (http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/domidrawers-revisited/ ).  Watch out for the flare on the bit when you plunge to full depth.  Since you are planning to make your own stock, be suer to check out Tezzer's method of keeping the last 1/16 or so square to give a different look to the joinery.

 

[Max Neu]

CJ,
I thought about that,but I think in the long run,it will be cheaper and quicker to just cut long stock on the bandsaw with a stop block.At $.35 per foot,that is about 1/3 the cost of the standard domino's.Also,alot of the boxes we do are prefinished material,so i can't be doing any cutting or sanding on them,I just need to tap them in flush.

 

[Max Neu]

Stoli,
I noticed the 5mm bit flared when motising to full depth,that's why I am using 6mm,it didn't do that.