Need to build a replacement shutter... got any advice?

Electric Trim

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I need to duplicate this shutter.  What kind of materials would you guys use on this?

I'm thinking mahogany for the outside but I'm unsure about the flat panel.

The new one will be painted the same.  Any thoughts?  Money isn't a problem for this customer.

Also, any pointers on how to construct it are welcome.
 
E T  Mahogany for the stiles and rails would work fine, for the flat panel maybe a glue up of the same material would work.
My concern would be the paint adhering to the mahogany because of the oils in the wood.
 
Thanks for the input.

I could be wrong but I think south American mahogany paints well.  Feel free to correct me on that.

Anyone want to weigh on gluing up the flat panels.  That was my first thought but I wonder how well they'd hold up being that large. (warp, cup, split?)

I prefer real wood every chance we get but...

Is MDO plywood a bad idea for the panels?
 
Electric Trim said:
Have you done that before Joe?

I have. Any wood that is going to be outside will need some maintaining every year. It you are going to use paint, I can see no reason to use more expensive wood, because the paint is going to cover it, unless you have a bunch of that wood laying around. Assuming it is going to be painted, I would use plywood or MDO, but the ply would be cheaper.

If it is not going to be painted, I would us Ipe or Sapele. Both stand up to the weather really well. You will run into problems with thin panels from solid wood in a outdoors environment and having to repairs in a year or less.

 
Any time i use Mahogany i prime it with "Aluminium" primer, then paint with whatever.

The construction, Haunched mortise & tenons with fox wedges on the corners & a through wedged tennon on the rail.
 
i would use marine ply for the panels and plant on ipe or teek etc.

another option would be some of that plastic or cement board fasia board stuff and domino it together
 
Alan m said:
i would use marine ply for the panels and plant on ipe or teek etc.

another option would be some of that plastic or cement board fasia board stuff and domino it together

Wouldnt that make the paneling pretty thick using ply and then sticking ipe/teek on top?   You might aswell just have ply or ipe/teek.  

I get it the ply is try and keep the paneling stable but you might aswell just use ply on its own seen as its been painted cus you basically covering it in ipe/teek to protect the ply from its elements but thats what paint does any way.

JMB
 
I say forget the mahogany, there are less expensive alternatives that will work just as well (or better).  Cypress if you can find it in your area is a very good choice.  Other woods that will work well, spanish ceder and white oak.  White oak is least expensive but it's also heavy (that's not necessarily a bad thing).  I'd stay away from poplar, there's no reason to tempt fate when the client has the budget for better material.  
 
Here's another thought, PVC.  I'd really think about using laminated Azek.  I'd start with a 1/2" sheet and glue a 3/4" frame (rails ans stiles) to it.  Then glue the molding in.   
 
Brice,

If he's matching the color to what's in the picture, it's too dark for Azek or other PVC brands.  The heat from the sun will do all sorts of funky things with the PVC when painted too dark.  That's why on the tech instructions for the manufacturer's website, they usually state a light reflective value range.  I was recently told by one manufacturer, the color you choose (too dark) could void the manufacturer's responsibility after install.
 
There is a new kind of threatment on wood that can be use outside.Called TMF  "THERMALLY MODIFIED WOOD"
I don't know if you can get it where you live but it is rot,bug,moisture,resistant.Any species of wood can be treated that way.
Also,not sure about cost.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Here's another thought, PVC.  I'd really think about using laminated Azek.  I'd start with a 1/2" sheet and glue a 3/4" frame (rails ans stiles) to it.  Then glue the molding in.   

Timberlane has a line of shutters that they do this with.  After examining how they did it I found that they put some aluminum channel laminated between 2 pieces of azek for the rails and stiles.  We hung some black shutters for a customer about 4 years ago and they still look as good as the day we hung them.  I have never had a problem painting Azek some very dark colors so long as you do the proper prep and use the right paint.  We are actually in the process of designing a large pergola all of PVC and will be laminating site made plywood beams into 2 layers of 5/4 PVC for the rafters.  Ill make sure to post pics when we get started should be a fun one.
 
bjackson3 said:
Brice Burrell said:
Here's another thought, PVC.  I'd really think about using laminated Azek.  I'd start with a 1/2" sheet and glue a 3/4" frame (rails ans stiles) to it.  Then glue the molding in.   

Timberlane has a line of shutters that they do this with.  After examining how they did it I found that they put some aluminum channel laminated between 2 pieces of azek for the rails and stiles.  We hung some black shutters for a customer about 4 years ago and they still look as good as the day we hung them.  I have never had a problem painting Azek some very dark colors so long as you do the proper prep and use the right paint.  We are actually in the process of designing a large pergola all of PVC and will be laminating site made plywood beams into 2 layers of 5/4 PVC for the rafters.  Ill make sure to post pics when we get started should be a fun one.

It's not about the paint or prep.  It's about the paint color and the direct sunlight on it, how it affects the movement or distortion of the PVC.  I'm not making this stuff up.  Just read any of the install instructions from Azek, Koma, Versatex.  Do whatever you want, but keep in mind, it's your labor and replacement material cost should a problem occur.  The manufacturers wipe their hands of it with the info and warnings they give.
 
Fully realize the manufacturers don't like dark colors, but if a VERY reputable company like Timberlane can make a shutter out of Azek, (I know this because was i was at the factory), and offer a lifetime warranty with it even when painted black I would tend to think it can be done.  I just trimmed, last year, the entire exterior of a house, all beaded and jack mitered with a plank molding and they painted it a dark green.  Glued and pocket screwed all joints and it still looks like new.  Sherwin Williams Duration paint has ALOT of stretch to it.  I tend to think that no matter the color if its plastic and its in the sun it is going to get hot, you just have to allow for it to move (Lots and lots)  and you will be ok.  Don't get me wrong I would much rather work in wood, but sometimes it just makes sense.
 
I have to agree with Ken.  If you end up using a PVC product, check the manufacturer's data.  Some will flat out void the warranty, some will not if you use a heat blocking paint.  I have used a product in the past that would allow dark colors on pvc even in Arizona.  Unfortunately threw the info away.

Peter
 
Brice Burrell said:
Sorry, my Azek suggestion has gotten this thread a little off course...

I think it was a good and relevent suggestion.  You just have to keep in mind about the paint you put on it.  I just looked at some documentation I got from Versatex last week.  Here are pictures of it.

 
Brice,

I don't think that your suggestion has gotten this off course at all.  Material choices are what were asked for, and you supplied a very viable material.  Color choices and products and warranties are all part of the equation.

Peter
 
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