New custom MFT table top. What material and router bit.

[fidelfs]

I have been reading a lot about how to make a custom MFT top.  I think I have the "how to" settled, I will use my LR32, router and router bit.

My problem is what material to use for the top.  I thought to use Baltic birch for the top and probably a laminate top.  This way I can use it as a router table.
My first question is about the plywood baltic birch is it good for the MFT top?  Can I still use the festool clamps having a 3/4 plywood plus the laminate.?
I always clamp the wood instead so this will prevent the wood sliding when cutting.

I have Qwas dogs and I read not all the router bits are 20mm, which router bit would you recommend to keep using the qwas dogs?  I also wonder if one bit will be enough or do I have to buy more than one to make the top (1500x1000).

 

[erock]

I personally would use MDF.  It's cheaper and  the thickness is consistent.  In my neck of the wood it won't more with the seasons like cheap plywood  from the big box store could.

I think, now I could be wrong, but I think that laminating could dull any blades you plan on using, if you plan on using the table as a MFT/3.

I have the Festool 20mm bit and I would recommend it.  I honestly think that just one Festool 20mm router bit would get you thru the project if you don't laminate the top.  Laminating the top could dull blades or bits a lot faster, depending on the blade or bits you use.  Again, that is just a guess.

Hope this helps you a little,

Eric

 

[NERemodeling]

Freud 20mm router bit 04-552 has worked for me when drilling out mft style tops

the Baltic birch or MDF should both work fine, if you plan on cutting into the top i wouldn't use laminate 

also, don't quote me but i think if you put laminate on one side you are going to need to put in on both sides so the wood moves the same

John

 

[fidelfs]

I know that is the principle on veneer, back and front must have the veneer to prevent problems with wood movement.  I don't know if that applies to laminate, that is a good point.
The laminate is man made material, so I am guessing there won't be a problem. Anyone with experience on that one?

I am planning to have a single cut at 90 degrees, the rail won't move.  The angle cuts will be a protractor in relation of the rail.  It will be similar at the table that Guido Henn made. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Cepg2DAkKQE)

I was thinking to drill the holes first and then apply the laminate, so I can drill the laminate with a drill to register the hole and then use a copy bearing bit just for the laminate. 

I know it is a lot of work, but I don't want to find out at the end that doesn't work. so any ideas, doubts are welcome.

 

[Samo]

AskWoodMan.TV  [tongue]

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I know that is the principle on veneer, back and front must have the veneer to prevent problems with wood movement.  I don't know if that applies to laminate, that is a good point.
The laminate is man made material, so I am guessing there won't be a problem. Anyone with experience on that one?

I am planning to have a single cut at 90 degrees, the rail won't move.  The angle cuts will be a protractor in relation of the rail.  It will be similar at the table that Guido Henn made. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Cepg2DAkKQE)

I was thinking to drill the holes first and then apply the laminate, so I can drill the laminate with a drill to register the hole and then use a copy bearing bit just for the laminate. 

I know it is a lot of work, but I don't want to find out at the end that doesn't work. so any ideas, doubts are welcome.

Show pics of construction. It's a very nice looking bench.

 

[AlexR]

That video was amazing. Looks like he has used that trailer base ply, someone here sure to know the proper name. [embarassed]
After my first top landed up getting full of cuts etc i use battens to hold work above top, works but got annoying when moving stock the battens would need realigning. I've made fix with battens with 20mm holes and conduit holding them in place with big batten/ply where the ts cuts. I'm rubbish at explaining I'll try get some pics on.
I think 1 meter top might be a bit wide unless you are very tall or you keep bench low. Mine is 900mm wide and i can only just reach comfortably.
Edit- googling that ply has come up with phenolic resin coated plywood ,ebay here puts it same price for 8x 4 as balti furniture grade ply.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Fidelfs,

If you Laminate one side of a board, you would almost definitely have to laminate the opposite side as well. I understand it is called a "Balance" for obvious reasons.

As MDF isn't exactly strong, it would be likely that the top would start to curl up after a while if you didn't laminate the bottom to match, as it absorbed moisture from underneath, whereas the top surface would stay the same IMHO.

Tim.

 

[fidelfs]

what if I use baltic birch instead of MDF.  Will it make a difference if I use waterlox on the under side?

If I don't use laminate, I am thinking to apply a finish to make it smooth for the router table.  That might be my best option.

 

[fdengel]

It seems to me that these are competing interests.  Anything to do that will make the wood slip more easily on the surface to improve its use as a router table will also allow the wood to slip more easily when you are using it as a working table and want the material to stay put.

You might consider doing this in two sections: a "router table" piece that has some kind of coating, and the rest of it which does not.  If you keep the coating thin enough I don't see why you couldn't still use that in the middle of the overall project and still use the uncoated parts to help support larger pieces when needed and the coated part to help support larger pieces being clamped as needed...?

You might find this discussion to be of interest:

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/23073-mdf-appropriate-router-table-top.html