New Dowel Jig - raises Domino comparisons in my mind

[smorgasbord]

Woodpeckers has a new version of their previous one-time "Ultimate Dowel Jig 2.0" out, called the "Cam-A-Line Dowel Guide"


Honestly, it seems pretty nice, and the video showing its use in creating a table with a recessed apron is also good and no-nonsense. Although I would question the use of ⅜" dowels in ¾" apron stock (but the jig also supports 5/16" and ¼" dowels).

My reason for posting is to, again, discuss dowels versus dominos. The new guide is $240 for the 3 dowel size set. That's obviously a lot cheaper than a Domino machine. So, what's good about the new tool?

1) You can set dowel spacing easily and lock that in so you know they'll match on both sides of the joint
2) There's a fence you can lock in place, again helping alignment
3) They have a clever stop rod system that can be flipped from left to right so that offsets from the edge match up.

Problems?
1) No dust extraction. The video makes a point to show and discuss vacuuming not just after drilling, but after removing the jig from the workpiece.
2) The stop rod system isn't indexed, so once you've readjusted it, as for perhaps a different joint, getting back the exact same distance will require some work, maybe trial cuts.
3) The fence setup isn't indexed, again if you move it then getting it back exactly will require some work/trial. This is interesting, as the previous version of this jig did have 1/32" indexed grooves cut so you could return to the same setting easily. I wonder why they removed that feature.

That said, if you are cost-conscious, or just like dowels, this seems like a nice jig for joinery. It even supports ½" dowels, so some maybe wouldn't need a Domino XL. That said, of course, the domino has other uses as well, but then I suspect this dowel guide could also be used for non-joinery holes, too, like shelf pins, etc.

Good to have choices.

 

[usernumber1]

to me the domino strengths are the ability to hold the workpiece with one hand and make the mortises with the other hand.
the setup with the fence, preset depths and heights is all incredibly fast and no clamping or cleanup

the bonus is the ability to have loose mortises

nothing against dowels, just thinking these jigs are missing the points what makes the domino machine so good

 

[ChuckM]

JessEm also offers a drilling and cheaper alternative to the Domino Joiner. This one is on sale for about $340 Cdn:


Of course, something has to give for the saving in cost.

 

[Packard]

JessEm also offers a drilling and cheaper alternative to the Domino Joiner. This one is on sale for about $340 Cdn:


Of course, something has to give for the saving in cost.

My wrist is getting tired just watching the video.

I think this is fine for a one-off cabinet.  But if you have a dozen boxes to build, it would prove tedious.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I think regardless of the one time cost pain, the speed and ease the Domino offers with effortless accuracy is pretty unbeatable. If you rarely use a Domino then maybe there's a case for the dowel jig for a cost saving.

 

[jeh]

If you want dowels with effortless accuracy buy the Mafell DuoDoweler. Does a whole lot more than just dowels with the coordinating  template guides.

 

[Steve1]

The problem I have always had with dowels is that geometrically, you are over constraining the joint. 
On a recent project, I used four loose tenons (accomplished with a router), slots slightly long, with one dowel for front/back location.

But I am starting to come to the conclusion that I might be over-thinking this.  Wood gives a bit, and using half a dozen dowels probably would have worked out just fine.  In this particular example, I used dowel points to transfer the dowel location but I would much prefer a dowel jig where I can set hole locations from a hard-stop against a datum face.

I think a Dowelmax jig is in my future.

 

[Packard]

I’ve made this same type of joint using a self-centering dowel jig (about $60.00).

I should mention that Harbor Freight sells one.  Don’t buy that.  It will not reliably center the dowels.

There are two types available:

One has two removable bushings and two fixed holes and is cheaper.

The preferred version has 4 removable bushings allowing you to drill four holes in one pass. 

To get the offset, shim one side with stock (I think I used 3/8” thick stock for the shim) and drill as per usual.

It is a very simple joint with that jig. 

I have several types of dowel jigs.  The centering jig is one of my favorites as no separate clamp is required.  The Infinity jig has accepts four bushings and comes with 12, with a maximum of 3/8”.

The familiar you become with it, the more versatile it becomes.  Double rows of dowels are possible with a wider spacer block and two clampings.

Also, positive end stops are easy by putting a dowel into s stubby piece of same-thickness stock as you are doweling and trimming to the correct dimension.

The video shows using masking tape as a depth of drilling indicator.  I much prefer a drill stop attached.  I like to use a small block of wood with a hole in it placed over the drill as a depth limiter.  The clamp on stops sometimes slip (especially the ones with a set screw).  The two piece clamps are much better.

Dowels really shine for cabinet work.  For that a different type of jig is preferred.

 

[Hawkeye0001]

I think regardless of the one time cost pain, the speed and ease the Domino offers with effortless accuracy is pretty unbeatable. If you rarely use a Domino then maybe there's a case for the dowel jig for a cost saving.

Too true, but I would go for one of the many doweling jigs that do the job faster, easier and with less setup - there's plenty out there for a fraction of the cost. By the time the pieces are marked and this contraption has been set up I'm already done with the domino; and by the time all the holes are drilled, the mess cleaned up and dowels placed I'm on my second coffee, waiting for the glue to dry.

I mean the mechanism looks seriously cool, but it looks complicated in this typical Woodpecker way that always seems to suggest that their engineer was too excited that he could that he never stopped to think if he should. I'm pretty sure I'd have to get the handbook out every time I need to use if it's not on a daily basis.

 

[squall_line]

Problems?
2) The stop rod system isn't indexed, so once you've readjusted it, as for perhaps a different joint, getting back the exact same distance will require some work, maybe trial cuts.
3) The fence setup isn't indexed, again if you move it then getting it back exactly will require some work/trial. This is interesting, as the previous version of this jig did have 1/32" indexed grooves cut so you could return to the same setting easily. I wonder why they removed that feature.
Good to have choices.

I wonder if it would be possible if you had to "go back" to a piece for some reason to just drop a dowel into an existing hole and use that to index the jig and re-set the stop.  At least, in my head that's how it might work?

 

[jeffinsgf]

I wonder if it would be possible if you had to "go back" to a piece for some reason to just drop a dowel into an existing hole and use that to index the jig and re-set the stop.  At least, in my head that's how it might work?

It's even easier than that. The jig comes with an index pin for each dowel size. Drop the pin in the center drill hole and set your fence and stops.

 

[smorgasbord]

The jig comes with an index pin for each dowel size. Drop the pin in the center drill hole and set your fence and stops.

Duh - can't believe I didn't think of that. And with the index pin and another dowel you could probably even easily reset the spacing to match a previously drilled piece.

 

[Packard]

I think regardless of the one time cost pain, the speed and ease the Domino offers with effortless accuracy is pretty unbeatable. If you rarely use a Domino then maybe there's a case for the dowel jig for a cost saving.

Too true, but I would go for one of the many doweling jigs that do the job faster, easier and with less setup - there's plenty out there for a fraction of the cost. By the time the pieces are marked and this contraption has been set up I'm already done with the domino; and by the time all the holes are drilled, the mess cleaned up and dowels placed I'm on my second coffee, waiting for the glue to dry.

I mean the mechanism looks seriously cool, but it looks complicated in this typical Woodpecker way that always seems to suggest that their engineer was too excited that he could that he never stopped to think if he should. I'm pretty sure I'd have to get the handbook out every time I need to use if it's not on a daily basis.

Well, no.

I have the CMT dowel jig and template.  The following applies to sheet goods for cabinet making.

Based on the speed of the Domino machine in videos, the CMT jig is just as fast for joints up to about 12” wide, where the Domino registers off the edges with the pin register.  But on wider joints (up to 24”) the CMT appears faster because once the jig is clamped, I can drill any width up to 24” with one clamped setup.

But the CMT is not as versatile and only works for sheet goods.

 

[smorgasbord]

I’ve made this same type of joint using a self-centering dowel jig (about $60.00).

I have a 2-decade old version of that jig. They lack the reference from the end stop feature in the Cam-A-Line, and that Dominos have with the flaps or cross-stop arms. You can jig something up, of course.

BTW, I always thought it puzzling that Festool didn't revise the DF500 to have the same 3 flaps per side as the DF700 - it's not like the head is any narrower or couldn't accommodate the extra flaps (DF500 has one at 37mm, DF700 has three at 20, 37, and 50mm).

Hey, maybe I just liked that the example use video showed solid wood furniture being built instead of yet another plywood kitchen cabinet with glued-on edge banding and ugly door hinges.

 

[jeffinsgf]

The jig comes with an index pin for each dowel size. Drop the pin in the center drill hole and set your fence and stops.

Duh - can't believe I didn't think of that. And with the index pin and another dowel you could probably even easily reset the spacing to match a previously drilled piece.

I've done that a few times. Popped three dowels in a joint and then drop the jig on, tweaking the spacing until it fits.

 

[squall_line]

BTW, I always thought it puzzling that Festool didn't revise the DF500 to have the same 3 flaps per side as the DF700 - it's not like the head is any narrower or couldn't accommodate the extra flaps (DF500 has one at 37mm, DF700 has three at 20, 37, and 50mm).

Maybe in the next iteration after the patents expire and they have to innovate something new.  The renderings in their recent patents show the swivel-style dust port that is used on the TS 55, TS 60, and CSC 50, so that's at least one change that may be coming some time in the next few years.

I don't recall the timing of the dispute over the pins on the DF500, release of the flap fence, addition of the 4mm, and release of the DF700, but the DF500 is definitely "long in the tooth" by most modern measures.  Not that the consistency is a bad thing, it's just a thing that's noticed.

 

[Birdhunter]

I use the Domino, Mafell dowel machine, the old Woodpecker dowel jig, and whatever in that order. The problem AND the advantage of dowels is that the positioning of the dowel holes has to be perfect while the Domino can allow for some adjustment during glue up.

I've been building small chair side tables. The aprons are too narrow to allow for two Domino tenons where two dowels can be made to fit perfectly. The Mafell doweler does this function very well.

 

[Packard]

I wonder if it would be possible if you had to "go back" to a piece for some reason to just drop a dowel into an existing hole and use that to index the jig and re-set the stop.  At least, in my head that's how it might work?

It's even easier than that. The jig comes with an index pin for each dowel size. Drop the pin in the center drill hole and set your fence and stops.

I make end stops for my centering clamp regularly. Easy steps.

I select a piece of lumber the same thickness as I am doweling into and about 1-1/2” wide.

I clamp that piece into the jig and drill a dowel hole in one edge. 

I glue a dowel in that hole.

I then trim the length of that piece until it results in the dowel to edge measurement.

I drill additional dowel holes as needed, first indexed to the edge, then indexed to the drilled holes.

I would note that laboratory tests on plywood, MDF, and particleboard show that no fastener should be closer to the edge of a board than 2”, though I cheat sometimes and go to 1-1/2”.

The reasoning being that there needs to be a substantial amount of board to both sides of a fastener to prevent the board from splitting.

The labs did not test solid wood.  So no warnings there, though I use the same standard for all materials.

 

[WillAdams]

The Bridge City Tool Works DJ-3 was on sale in this morning's e-mail --- almost bought it --- seems wonderfully versatile (my current need is to drill small holes for hinges in boxes and lids).

 

[Packard]

The Bridge City Tool Works DJ-3 was on sale in this morning's e-mail --- almost bought it --- seems wonderfully versatile (my current need is to drill small holes for hinges in boxes and lids).

I just googled this.  It costs as much as a decent bench top drill press, which, I believe will do much of the same as this jig. It probably feels like a gem in your hands, but that no longer sways me.  I would go with a drill press with a decent fence and some marking tools.