New drawer making technique. This could be brilliant
- Thread starter Monju123
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Locks14
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Clever idea.
My only thought is where does it actually fit? In mass production you've already got automated ways of quickly making finger joints and in handcrafted bespoke work the dovetail is a desired aesthetic detail and has its own inherent mechanical strength that will keep a drawer together for decades.
My only thought is where does it actually fit? In mass production you've already got automated ways of quickly making finger joints and in handcrafted bespoke work the dovetail is a desired aesthetic detail and has its own inherent mechanical strength that will keep a drawer together for decades.
Interesting
It's a variant of a folded miter corner Very common in vinyl wrapped particle board boxes like speaker cabinets and in the old days TV cabinets- Back in the day we even made round corner ones- plough a radius corner groove in the panel and then fold it with a dowel in the groove.
It's a variant of a folded miter corner Very common in vinyl wrapped particle board boxes like speaker cabinets and in the old days TV cabinets- Back in the day we even made round corner ones- plough a radius corner groove in the panel and then fold it with a dowel in the groove.
It's clever, but it means the drawer bottom is the same thickness as the sides. It also means that you are using a larger piece of stock overall (assuming the drawer sides are made from rips).
It might be really useful, though, to have a smaller version of that on a CNC.
It might be really useful, though, to have a smaller version of that on a CNC.
GarryMartin
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WastedP said:
Clearly not necessarily as he shows when he makes the boxes and dados in a thinner piece of ply for the bottoms before cutting and separating them.
GarryMartin said:
Yes, I didn't watch the entire video from end to end the first time. Now that I have, I would say that the process for putting thinner drawer bottoms in is pretty convoluted, and probably involves more machine set-up than other methods.
rnt80
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I applaud his ingenuity. I'll stick with dovetails (when my customers ask for them) and 1/2" pre-finished maple ply with dominos. When I go with the latter I simply stable 1/4" pre-finished maple ply to the bottom - if I'm using side mount slides. The slides cover up the edge of the 1/4" ply so it's never seen and I've never had an issue with durability of a stapled drawer bottom.
pugilato
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Are you kidding me? Making a drawer with four cuts on one piece of ply? Hot dang... I like it. Depending on cost, I would most assuredly have this beauty in my shop. I would hope it would come with the full dado stack needed to make the cut, adjustable for the various widths by adding or taking parts out of the stack.
I think I would want to tack the bottom into the sides for added strength, where tacks are not visible. Perhaps some pin nails along the corners.
I use half inch ply for drawer bottoms and sides, so no sweat there. If the client wants dovetails, I can do that for an upcharge. If they want dominoes, well, I ain't got one, so there would be an upcharge. No sweat at tall, unless the device is too expensive.
There's a TV show called Shark Tank or something where inventors present their device to potential financiers. Seen it once, and one of the devices presented is in stores.
I think I would want to tack the bottom into the sides for added strength, where tacks are not visible. Perhaps some pin nails along the corners.
I use half inch ply for drawer bottoms and sides, so no sweat there. If the client wants dovetails, I can do that for an upcharge. If they want dominoes, well, I ain't got one, so there would be an upcharge. No sweat at tall, unless the device is too expensive.
There's a TV show called Shark Tank or something where inventors present their device to potential financiers. Seen it once, and one of the devices presented is in stores.
The biggest problem with this idea is that the material varies slightly in thickness and if any dust gets under to lift it slightly the cut is too shallow or if thinner too deep, this causes havoc with production. To fix that variation the cut has to be made from above with the material referenced to the face.
40 years ago I tried this with a single 90 deg cutter mounted in a radial arm saw and it worked reasonably well but the cuts were slow and it threw chips everywhere. To prevent tear out you had to climb cut - scary.
Eventually I finished up with a machine that had two blades set at 90 deg to each other, each one separately adjustable, and the material held on a moving vacuum table, this worked brilliantly.
40 years ago I tried this with a single 90 deg cutter mounted in a radial arm saw and it worked reasonably well but the cuts were slow and it threw chips everywhere. To prevent tear out you had to climb cut - scary.
Eventually I finished up with a machine that had two blades set at 90 deg to each other, each one separately adjustable, and the material held on a moving vacuum table, this worked brilliantly.
Nice. He does a very good job explaining his concept.
Among other uses, seems like you could knock out a bunch of systainer drawers very quickly.
Looks like he has about a quarter million hits just after 3 days posted on you tube.
My question after watching the video is: What else is there to develop? Just fix that gap problem and have the carbide people quote him on making a bunch of them, then sell them right off a website he cribs up. I'd buy one right away.
Among other uses, seems like you could knock out a bunch of systainer drawers very quickly.
Looks like he has about a quarter million hits just after 3 days posted on you tube.
My question after watching the video is: What else is there to develop? Just fix that gap problem and have the carbide people quote him on making a bunch of them, then sell them right off a website he cribs up. I'd buy one right away.
John Broomall
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I believe Mafell makes a tool with a similar function plus a few other tricks: MF26cc.
Gary in Texas
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John Broomall said:
Yeah, that's a pretty kewl saw...
I have to give this guy his due, at least he is out there trying new stuff. What I was surprised about was the 33 negative vs 3 likes.
I've made small boxes like this before by routing a vee groove along the box sides and ends, glue and fold it up.
Deansocial
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Be good for newl posts
jonny round boy
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No good for anyone in the UK though, as dado stacks are illegal here...
GarryMartin
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jonny round boy said:
Thought they were only illegal on table saws? I would assume you'd also be able to do something like this "upside down" on a radial arm saw?
i'm seeing close to 4000 likes on his you tube video.
anyway, what i wanted to ask of those who are familiar with shaper machines. would not a shaper bit also work with a tall enough spindle, as long as the drawer height did not get too tall? i can see that more people would have table saws than shapers, but just thinking of other possibilities.
anyway, what i wanted to ask of those who are familiar with shaper machines. would not a shaper bit also work with a tall enough spindle, as long as the drawer height did not get too tall? i can see that more people would have table saws than shapers, but just thinking of other possibilities.
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