New Drill - Recommendations needed on which model(s)

[mike metz]

I'm looking to get a new drill. I have decided on the c15 or the t15. i would like to get input from user of both on what you like / dislike about each.
it will mainly be used for shop use, i already have a cxs and that is my go to for mainly everything, but its time for something with more power and bigger capacity

thanks for your input

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Do you have a budget?

 

[GPowers]

I also have the CXS and love it. Bought the new C15, and all the chucks,  when it came out.  Lots of power but heaver then the CXS. Waiting for the new t15 impact driver later this fall. So my $0.02 is buy the C15 not or wait for the new T15 this fall.

 

[mike metz]

Everyone has a budget these days, but i have set aside $700 for this

 

[GhostFist]

why not go t-18, then you re unstopable

 

[Kev]

why not go t-18, then you re unstopable

That's thee go!

I've got CXS, C15, Ti15 and all of the chucks ... I would also get the T18, but as we get Protool in Oz - I'm waiting on the updated PDC 18-4 (the Protool variant of the T18 with a 4 speed gearbox and rugged exterior).

I had the t18 for a while - awesome power ... but I decided to reconfigure my drill range ... Then the Protool update snuck out, putting me in this holding pattern [sad]

To me the T15 v's C15 question is answered by determining whether you predominantly drill and screw vertically or horizontally. Try both in your hand are prepare to drill into a wall, then down into the floor ... You"'ll see the T's are naturally balanced and the C's are nose heavy and tend to dip, putting more weight on your wrist if you're trying to hold it level.

 

[hockey_magnet]

I'm with GhostFist on this one. I bought the C15 and love it but since you already have the CXS (I didn't and just wanted one drill), go for the T18 since you will only need it for the really heavy duty stuff

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Since your budget is $700, I'd recommend the T 18 as well.  Plenty of power and the weight is great (at least to me).  The PDC 18-4 does go to 3800 RPM's, but I feel it's a big weight difference and bigger, compared to the T 18.  That's only my personal opinion.

 

[Steve R]

Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.

have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.

Cheer,
Steve

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.

have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.

Cheer,
Steve

That's a personal preference that you have to go into a store and get a feel for.  Some people like the C handle drills and others don't opting for the T handle.  Also, there is no C 18.

 

[GhostFist]

As far as T vs C goes. I had a CXS first and LOVED, and still do, the ergonomics. Waited for the C15's to come out but found the feel to be much different. For me the C series seemed to be uncomfortable, keep in mind I have a crush injury on my right hand so that affects how I grip. For people who haven't smashed their fingers off I'm sure its fine. as far as the T series of drills go. I currently own a T-15 and LOVE it. the ergonomics and balance on this drill are very good better than other drills on the market IMO. So I'm all for the T's.

There's a bunch on here who swear by C series but I have to maintain my suggestion for a T-18.

 

[Steve R]

Thanks for the feedback. But here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences?

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The difference is that the battery that comes with the C 12 is a 10.8 volt / 1.5 Ah LiIon battery and the T 12 comes with the 10.8 volt / 3.0 Ah LiIon battery.  Translates to greater run time with the T 12 at the cost of a larger size and heavier battery.  Both batteries work with both drills, if you were wondering about a dealer swap of some sort.

 

[Kev]

Sorry, you're not getting a good answer to the difference between the "T" and "C" I would like to hear the answer too.

have more than one drill and it would be helpful to know how the T and C compare.

Cheer,
Steve

Don't know what you're expecting here. Technical specifications are on the Festool website. Same battery, similar technology - different shape and ~100 grams more plastic on the C15.

Balance grip, fit are going to be highly personal.

Unless you're very confident or already have a similar model, I think you really need to put these drills in your hand.

The NA business offers 30 days to change your mind. So there's a decision you don't need to rush!

The only real decision anyone needs to make is whether they want a Festool drill or not - the remainder of the selection process can be very hands on.

Bottom line - nobody else can be certain you'll like the taste of chocolate.

 

[tbellemare]

here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences?

I don't know of any difference in a current model T 15 or C 15 other than the configuration. The difference in the configuration to me is somewhat significant...

Most people in the 'States are used to T-drills so that's the style they like. The C-drill configuration is a bit unusual here. The only ones that I recall from the past were Panasonics and they were really good drills.

The main difference in my opinion is when you want to push on what the drill is turning. Whether using a drill bit or a driver bit, sometimes you have to push pretty hard on the end of the bit. If you are using a T-drill and you want to push hard on that bit, you'd better use two hands - one on the trigger and one behind the motor so that the one behind the motor is pushing down the axis of the bit. With a C-drill, using only one hand, you can pull the trigger and push down the axis of rotation.

There is another consideration and I never thought about it until it was pointed out by someone on this Forum. When you hold a T-drill, your hand is farther forward and when you hold a C-drill, it is somewhat farther back but not much at all. This could conceivably add to the total length of the drill but I don't really think it's a consideration. I have both a C 15 and T 18 and just checked that theory. I don't see a significant difference.

I hope that helps. I can go into more detail and use visual support if needed.

Tom

EDIT before posting: Kev posted this while I was writing...

you really need to put these drills in your hand

That might well be your best advice.

 

[Steve R]

here is what is not clear to new buyers.... a "T" or "C" 12... is it only the handle difference or are there other differences?

I don't know of any difference in a current model T 15 or C 15 other than the configuration. The difference in the configuration to me is somewhat significant...

Most people in the 'States are used to T-drills so that's the style they like. The C-drill configuration is a bit unusual here. The only ones that I recall from the past were Panasonics and they were really good drills.

The main difference in my opinion is when you want to push on what the drill is turning. Whether using a drill bit or a driver bit, sometimes you have to push pretty hard on the end of the bit. If you are using a T-drill and you want to push hard on that bit, you'd better use two hands - one on the trigger and one behind the motor so that the one behind the motor is pushing down the axis of the bit. With a C-drill, using only one hand, you can pull the trigger and push down the axis of rotation.

There is another consideration and I never thought about it until it was pointed out by someone on this Forum. When you hold a T-drill, your hand is farther forward and when you hold a C-drill, it is somewhat farther back but not much at all. This could conceivably add to the total length of the drill but I don't really think it's a consideration. I have both a C 15 and T 18 and just checked that theory. I don't see a significant difference.

I hope that helps. I can go into more detail and use visual support if needed.

Tom

EDIT before posting: Kev posted this while I was writing...

you really need to put these drills in your hand

That might well be your best advice.

Tom,

You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?!

Just like a barrel handle jig or a "D" handle.... same jig...just a different handhold.

Cheers,
Steve

Cheers,
Steve

 

[tbellemare]

You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?!

Yes and no, Steve...

I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like.

That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use.

I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing.

Tom

 

[Steve R]

You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?!

Yes and no, Steve...

I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like.

That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use.

I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing.

Tom

Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[tbellemare]

You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?!

Yes and no, Steve...

I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like.

That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use.

I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing.

Tom

Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow.

Cheers,
Steve

I'll try again, maybe I'm being obtuse...

What I meant to say is that often I'm in a situation where I can only hold the drill with one hand but I need to push pretty hard. The C-drill allows me to push down the shaft of the bit and pull the trigger on the drill with only the one hand I have to hold the drill. The way a T-drill is designed to be held, I need a second hand to push on the back of the drill motor. If I have only one hand and a T-drill, I'm either bending the bit or losing traction in the fastener that I want to drive. The handle on a T-drill is offest from the axis of rotation of the drive.

Tom

 

[TomGadwa1]

You answered what he was asking and I stated a bit more clearly. ... the difference is how it fits your hand...nothing else nothing more. Right?!

Yes and no, Steve...

I seem to get into these weird situations, on top of a ladder, where I'm hanging on to some structure to get a purchase so my ladder doesn't tip and pushing a bit or driver bit with the other hand. For some reason, that tends to happen to me more than I'd like.

That's where the C-drills shine! When you have only one hand to use.

I think we agree completely though. It's a personal thing.

Tom

Auto correct might have kicked in on your first paragraph... not sure I follow.

Cheers,
Steve

I'll try again, maybe I'm being obtuse...

What I meant to say is that often I'm in a situation where I can only hold the drill with one hand but I need to push pretty hard. The C-drill allows me to push down the shaft of the bit and pull the trigger on the drill with only the one hand I have to hold the drill. The way a T-drill is designed to be held, I need a second hand to push on the back of the drill motor. If I have only one hand and a T-drill, I'm either bending the bit or losing traction in the fastener that I want to drive. The handle on a T-drill is offest from the axis of rotation of the drive.

Tom

Consider the above if one is drilling into dense material then the advantage would be with the T-drill as the leverage being further away from the rotational axis will help the operator experience less fatigue if drilling many holes. If precise placement with less lever advantage is required then the C-drill would seem to be the better option.