NEW! Festool HK/HKC 55 Saws, DWC 18 Screw Gun & SysLite DUO - Preorder Now!

[Shane Holland]

I wasn't talking about the range for the DWC, I was talking about finding collated screws in that size. Not a drywall expert, but a 1/2" screw isn't long enough for drywall, is it?

I can't find collated screws in that size online. Link please?

 

[Cheese]

[member=3373]Dovetail65[/member] ...just curious what you're doing, I've had a most difficult time just trying to find even 1" long screws for underlayment, let alone collated screws. I had to purchase 30 packs of 30 each instead of just purchasing 1000. Ouch... [crying]

 

[nickao]

I use 1/2" drywall screws everyday, not for hanging drywall though. If I was to hang or use 1/4" drywall around a curve I might use some 5/8" or 7/8", but for the most part the shortie drywall screws are not for hanging drywall.

Senco used to sell 5/8" and 7/8" collated screws not anymore though, all I can get now is 1" length. The boxes I make for work require 1/2 screws.

Senco makes the collated to 1" in drywall and stainless roofing seam screw versions. The drywall screws shorter than 1" I order online 25lbs at a time. 1" regular drywall screws are at Menards as well.

 

[Cheese]

Not a drywall expert, but a 1/2" screw isn't long enough for drywall, is it?

Whoa there Shane...check current building codes, that's more than enough for 1/8" drywall.  [big grin]

And it will be overkill when rocking with 1/16" or 1/32" rock.  [big grin] [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

[member=3373]Dovetail65[/member]
Thanks for the info, that's an interesting twist, always something to learn here.

 

[nickao]

If anyone knows of any kind of screw gun that can hold 1/2  collated screws for any application let me know. I guess what I really need is the 1/2" collated screws to start.

I know somewhere in a factory in there world their must be an Assembly line where they use short screws and dont have to hold and pick up single screws all day.

If I could just assemble a box that used 120 screws without having to grab and hold each individual screw that would save me hours a week.

 

[nickao]

Sorry if this has been asked

Does that Festool gun use the same collated screws that I use in my Senco? Or do I need to by Festool specific screws?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Senco 1/2" collated screws at CPO.

 

[Shane Holland]

Sorry if this has been asked

Does that Festool gun use the same collated screws that I use in my Senco? Or do I need to by Festool specific screws?

The DWC uses Senco style collated screws. Festool makes their own but you can use other brands.

Looks like Michael found what you were looking for possibly.

 

[nickao]

Senco 1/2" collated screws at CPO.

Thanks Michael, but I need a drywall type screw or at least a bugle shape(if its a wood or metal screw) so the screw countersinks just a bit, like when using drywall screw in drywall.

 

[Shane Holland]

Just a quick tidbit of info I realized today about the HKC 55 --- no variable speed on the cordless version. The HK 55 (corded) does have variable speed. So, it that matters to you, please choose accordingly.

 

[Shane Holland]

A little more teaser for those of you who are on the fence.  [big grin]

 

[Mort]

I think one of those will put me over the hump on getting a track saw. I use a lot of dimensional lumber so it'd work out perfectly.

So aside from dust collection not being quite as good, what would I be missing by getting one of these instead of a TS55?

 

[Shane Holland]

[member=46908]Mort[/member], these do not have some of the features of the TS saws, such as:

- no fine tooth blade
- no plunge action is not as intuitive and easy as with the TS saws
- no variable speed on the cordless version
- comes with the short cross-cut rail, so you'd need a long rail for rips

To me, this saw is a good candidate to replace or complement a SCMS.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

[member=46908]Mort[/member], these do not have some of the features of the TS saws, such as:

- no fine tooth blade
- no plunge action
- no variable speed on the cordless version
- comes with the short cross-cut rail, so you'd need a long rail for rips

To me, this saw is a good candidate to replace or complement a SCMS.

Shane, even though I haven't even touched the new saws that just arrived, I did at least discover (accidentally) that they have a plunge function. If you pull the little lever up toward the center of the blade housing, it releases the plunge spring and the saw will function with normal plunge action until you plunge it to full-depth and re-lock the plunge.

I don't yet know exactly how it works, but it is there.

 

[Mort]

[member=46908]Mort[/member], these do not have some of the features of the TS saws, such as:

- no fine tooth blade
- no plunge action
- no variable speed on the cordless version
- comes with the short cross-cut rail, so you'd need a long rail for rips

To me, this saw is a good candidate to replace or complement a SCMS.

Thanks Shane.

- I imagine the aftermarket will be along shortly as far as the blade goes. The different kerf blades of the TS won't work then?

- If I wanted to plunge I guess I could go old school like the circular saws of yore. Not quite as easy but still feasible.

- I'd get a corded one.

- If my community college math holds up, even buying a 55" rail you're still within a few Jacksons of the price of a TS55, plus you've got that fancy shmansy crosscut rail.

Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

 

[Shane Holland]

Hey, Rick. Yes, technically you can plunge with it. But, I can plunge with my regular fixed blade circ saw too. I think it would be an awkward thing to do based on the design of the saw. However, unlike you, I don't have one to check out in person. The blade guard would need to be held open while plunging the saw. Not as intuitive and easy as the TS. The blade doesn't retract after the cut, which probably isn't a big deal. Maybe you or someone else with an HK or HKC can actually try it out. Just don't want anyone to think this is a substitute for the TS saws.

Peter talked about it in his video, but it's not demonstrated, posted below. Edit: Phil shows the plunge action around 3:20 in his video, below.

[member=46908]Mort[/member], I don't think there's anything that would prevent you from using a TS 55 blade on the HK. Same blade diameter and arbor size, but the kerf is thinner on the HK. I think the only reason not to use a TS 55 blade on it is the splinterguard would be shaved back some if you go back to the original 1.8mm kerf blade. Maybe [member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member] can verify that you can use the TS 55 blades on the HK. But I was saying that it comes with an 18-tooth vs the 48-tooth on the TS 55. So, consider that additional cost if it matters to you.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Yeah, the only reason I didn't post sooner is I was watching all of the videos in the thread first. I was going to point out how Phil shows it at 3:30 in his video.

I wouldn't replace my TS55 with it for plunge cuts, but if I only had one saw on a job I wouldn't hesitate to plunge. The only thing different is the need to first retract the blade guard.

Here's a picture of the plunge release. As soon as you reach your depth, the plunge will lock down, but I can easily release it with my middle finger.

EDIT: Actually, for a blind plunge, it would even be superior to a TS55 because it can't kickback at all since it's locked onto the guide rail.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Phil Beckley]

Hey, Rick. Yes, technically you can plunge with it. But, I can plunge with my regular fixed blade circ saw too. I think it would be an awkward thing to do based on the design of the saw. However, unlike you, I don't have one to check out in person. The blade guard would need to be held open while plunging the saw. Not as intuitive and easy as the TS. The blade doesn't retract after the cut, which probably isn't a big deal. Maybe you or someone else with an HK or HKC can actually try it out. Just don't want anyone to think this is a substitute for the TS saws.

Peter talked about it in his video, but it's not demonstrated, posted below. Edit: Phil shows the plunge action around 3:20 in his video, below.

[member=46908]Mort[/member], I don't think there's anything that would prevent you from using a TS 55 blade on the HK. Same blade diameter and arbor size, but the kerf is thinner on the HK. I think the only reason not to use a TS 55 blade on it is the splinterguard would be shaved back some if you go back to the original 1.8mm kerf blade. Maybe [member=41214]Phil Beckley[/member] can verify that you can use the TS 55 blades on the HK. But I was saying that it comes with an 18-tooth vs the 48-tooth on the TS 55. So, consider that additional cost if it matters to you.

Hi
Apology for the late reply - travelling  [smile]
Yes the TS blade can be used, however. The riving knife is designed for 1.8 blades so that leaves .4 mm before the riving would come in to play on a kerf.
DO NOT use the 1.8 HK blades on the TS as the riving knife will not prevent the kerf from closing on the back of the blade
rg
Phil

 

[Phil Beckley]

Yeah, the only reason I didn't post sooner is I was watching all of the videos in the thread first. I was going to point out how Phil shows it at 3:30 in his video.

I wouldn't replace my TS55 with it for plunge cuts, but if I only had one saw on a job I wouldn't hesitate to plunge. The only thing different is the need to first retract the blade guard.

Here's a picture of the plunge release. As soon as you reach your depth, the plunge will lock down, but I can easily release it with my middle finger.

EDIT: Actually, for a blind plunge, it would even be superior to a TS55 because it can't kickback at all since it's locked onto the guide rail.

[attachimg=1]

.....locked with the FSK rail. With the FS rail the use of the anti kick back would be advisable.
To fit to the FS rail there are two options. Retract the guard with the lever and place on or slide from the end and the pendulum cover will move back to expose the blade
rg
Phil