New Festool TS55.

T

tomba26

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Jun 14, 2008
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Finally got around to buying a TS55 this morning and am looking forward to using it, it should make my working life much easier I hope.  
I got it as a package with clamps, extra blade and a 1400mm rail, I also bought an extra 1400 rail, joining bars and stops. I have a few questions though for those of you who own the saw:

I need a bag for the rails. Does the standard 1400mm bag hold more than one rail (I'm looking to hold 2 x 1400 and either an 800mm or 1m rail also)?

One of the jobs I bought it for was hanging doors, for those of you doing this do you find it quick enough joining rails together or do you carry a specific rail long enough to trim a door stile?

Also any tips on making the first cut through the splinter guard and getting it nice and accurate would be much appreciated.

Thanks for any guidance folks, I look forward to using the forum.

EDIT: Sorry mods, just realised I posted this in one of the other forum categories, I did try to remove the post but couldn't. Please delete whichever most appropriate.
 
There are two different guide rail bags available in Europe and both will hold two 1400mm rails.  I also use my TS55 to cut a lot of doors and I joint two 1400 or one 1400 and one 800 rail to make the cuts.  A long rail is a bit of a hassle to transport to the job everyday. Check out Rick C's supplemental manual for info on how to trim the splinter guard.
 
tomba -

Welcome. This tip comes from one of my classmates at the Cabinet Making class. Ski board bags:

http://www.skiboards.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10

I know that skiing isn't a huge sport in the UK, but with a user name like yours (Alberto Tomba comes to mind), I thought it'd interest you! They seem to be a lot less expensive than Festool guide rail bags. Best of luck with your new saw.

EDIT: Sorry I didn't come up with a UK link, but you get the idea!
 
Thanks for the replies folks.
Sean ski-ing is actually a major passion for me (hence 'tomba' as you said), despite living here in the UK, I get away as often as I can through winter.
I have a hard case these days for my skis but I guess a ski bag purchase may well be more economical than the festool bags, I'll take a look.
Cheers.
 
Welcome to the fog.  Before you use the 2nd rail, you might consider returning it and replacing it with a longer (or shorter) rail so you have more versatility.  There are a couple of threads that discuss using different length rails.  If you are cutting up sheet goods, you need a bit of room for the saw to sit at the start of your cut.

Mark
 
I have a tip for cutting the splinter guard for the first time. Don't be overly worried about the ends as you will not use them. Seat the TS55 properly on the rail, plunge and run it through to about six inches from the other end of the rail. You will have six inches or so of splinter guard overhang at each end of the rail- no problem. If you are planning to use rails joined together, join them and then run the saw from one end to the other. This will insure that you only have one overhang per rail, but you must remember which end was joined to which.

I really love my saw, and I would encourage you to get the hose deflector for about $15 to stop the vac hose snagging on the end of the rail.

Enjoy the saw
Richard.
 
mhoy said:
Welcome to the fog.  Before you use the 2nd rail, you might consider returning it and replacing it with a longer (or shorter) rail so you have more versatility.  There are a couple of threads that discuss using different length rails.  If you are cutting up sheet goods, you need a bit of room for the saw to sit at the start of your cut.

Mark
Click to expand...

Hi there.
I did consider getting a 800mm rail or possibly 1m rail to start with but as I plan on using the saw to rip 8x4 sheets at times I thought the two 1400mm rails would join and give me ample overhang, yet still allow me to cut smaller sizes also. What is the minimum overhang you would comfortably get away with?

I do plan on getting on getting either an 800mm or 1000mm rail at some point as I think that would be usefull for trimming bottom/top rails on doors.

 
Had the saw working now and seems great. Had it cobbled together with bits and bats of hose and attached to my old bosch vac, the suction is okay but I am looking to buy either a midi or mini vac over the next couple of weeks, probably a midi I think.  Something small enough to keep in the van all the time.

Only minor (and it is minor) niggle I can see with the saw is the button for setting the depth....the white line on the button itself does not quite line up with the lines on the depth guage.....less than half a mm out but I am fussy.  [big grin]  Is that normal with these saws or does the guage usually line up? It will make no real difference in use. The switch itself is a also a bit stiff but I'm sure it will 'give' with use.
Other than that the build quality seems excellent.
 
mhoy said:
Welcome to the fog.  Before you use the 2nd rail, you might consider returning it and replacing it with a longer (or shorter) rail so you have more versatility.  There are a couple of threads that discuss using different length rails.  If you are cutting up sheet goods, you need a bit of room for the saw to sit at the start of your cut.
Click to expand...

The 1900mm rail is a great choice for a second rail.  This length is nice for those 4x8 sheet goods.  The extra length over a 1400mm rail is appreciated when making those 4' crosscuts, and again when joined with a 1400mm rail for those 8' cuts.  Having a little extra length is so much easier in use than having a rail (or a combination of rails) that are just long enough. 

You can get by with 10" or less of overhang at the starting edge and 3-1/2" overhang at the trailing edge, but using these minimums makes it more difficult to initially position your rail, and again as you complete your cut.  When you position your rail, you want to concern yourself with where you want the cut -- if you have a minimum length of rail, you will have to also concern yourself with the amount of overhang.  And, as you reach the end of your cut, a minimum length rail means having to take care that you advance the saw far enough to complete your cut without going so far that the saw's front gib goes off the rail.  So, having some extra length is much better than only having the minimum.

Richard Leon said:
I have a tip for cutting the splinter guard for the first time. Don't be overly worried about the ends as you will not use them. Seat the TS55 properly on the rail, plunge and run it through to about six inches from the other end of the rail. You will have six inches or so of splinter guard overhang at each end of the rail- no problem. If you are planning to use rails joined together, join them and then run the saw from one end to the other. This will insure that you only have one overhang per rail, but you must remember which end was joined to which.
Click to expand...

Uhm, the simple solution here is to join the rails the other way around and then trim the remaining splinter guard.
 
tomba26 said:
Had the saw working now and seems great. Had it cobbled together with bits and bats of hose and attached to my old bosch vac, the suction is okay but I am looking to buy either a midi or mini vac over the next couple of weeks, probably a midi I think.  Something small enough to keep in the van all the time.

Only minor (and it is minor) niggle I can see with the saw is the button for setting the depth....the white line on the button itself does not quite line up with the lines on the depth guage.....less than half a mm out but I am fussy.  [big grin]  Is that normal with these saws or does the guage usually line up? It will make no real difference in use. The switch itself is a also a bit stiff but I'm sure it will 'give' with use.
Other than that the build quality seems excellent.
Click to expand...

There is a set screw that can be used to make adjustments on the button.  You'll find the scale isn't going to be 100% accurate no matter how much adjusting you do.  I simply find this to be of no consequence for the type of work I do.  It seems like you do the same type of work so I wouldn't worry about.

I've not found the switch to be stiff, however, we have a slightly different model here in the States.  The only advice I have is make sure you are completely depressing the safety lock.
 
Thanks for the reply Brice.  I am fully depressing the button so I suspect it just needs a bit of use.
Sounds like joining a 1400mm and 800mm together might be the solution for trimming door stiles. Not too big when joined and it will give a shorter , handy rail for smaller stuff.
I'm looking at this bag as    http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/festool-rail-clamps-accessories/festool-guide-rail-bag-fs-bag.html
It looks as though it has a slot on the outside to put a shorter rail, if it would hold 2 x 1400mm internally and an 800mm outside it would be ideal. Anybody used this bag?
 
i have the newer style bag that joiner'70 posted

i ca still fit 2 x 1400 and 1 x 800 in the main compartment then i keep clamps and rail jointers in the side pocket
 
Another option for transporting rails and rail accessories is a keyboard case.  Dan Rush uses a hard case to transpost his rails, levels, accessories etc.  He mentioned his method again at the classes the other week.  I'd send him a pm and ask him to chime in here, but I know that he will be away from the Internet for a week.

Do a google search for keyboard cases or hard keyboard cases.  
 
If you want a soft-sided case, consider your local upholsterer. They have access to some pretty heavy fabrics, and can sew it up to suit your particular wants/needs.
 
I used to love my rails and take great care of them, now I just toss them on the top shelf in my trailer.
 
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