New Kapex 120 glide action feels rough

[sai1]

To end the conspiracy theories: At this point I will not send it back. For me it's just not worth the hassle (right now) and I need the saw next days/weeks.
I already lubricated the slides with oil, which maybe helped a little bit.
I might make a video, but I'm not really sure if you can see it on video. It's something you would rather feel than see.

P.S.: I also hit rdr (OP) up to ask him if he got this problem resolved.

 

[sai1]

OK, now that I took a closer look at the left rail, I found scratch marks. You can only see them when the light is coming from the right direction. Saw is going back and I'm getting a replacement for the next days.

View attachment 1

 

[ChuckM]

Good to know about this possible source of defect that would affect the rail and gliding. If the scratch was on the underside of the rail, it might be hard to detect it by sight.

 

[imdking]

OK, now that I took a closer look at the left rail, I found scratch marks. You can only see them when the light is coming from the right direction. Saw is going back and I'm getting a replacement for the next days.

View attachment 1

Sorry to hear that. I hope it comes back sliding smooth. Let us know when you get it back.

Cheers!

 

[sai1]

Saw came back today. Nothing was replaced. Resistance in the glide mechanism is "within tolerance", rails are "OK" as inspected.
If you can't say something nice, say nothing at all. I'm just going to leave it at that.
Have a good day everyone.

 

[ChuckM]

I have to say something (not the same as I have something to say [tongue])!

I wouldn't have sent it back to start with (that's, assuming the saw cuts perfectly well). Every time, I send something out for fix (none of them were Festool so far, touch wood), I have this feeling of unease that it could come back worse.

 

[sai1]

I wouldn't have sent it back to start with (that's, assuming the saw cuts perfectly well). Every time, I send something out for fix (none of them were Festool so far, touch wood), I have this feeling of unease that it could come back worse.

Totally with you on this. Not to mention the saw was dropped the first time when the UPS guy came to pick it up and it slipped out of his hands.
I'm going to replace the linear bearing myself, I'm pretty sure something's broken in there and is grinding against the rail. So I expect things to get worse over time.
And when things get worse, Festool probably plays it off as 'regular wear'  8)

 

[Lbob131]

Looking at  the scuff marks  on  the  bar I'd just have  polished  those  out  with  some fine  emery paper.
But what  is  the line  just  above  the scuff  marks?
Is  that a ridge  of  some  kind?

If so, I don't see  how  ball bearings  could  run smooth  against  that. [sad]

 

[Cheese]

If this were my problem I'd definitely swap out that damaged rod. The rods for linear bearings normally have a hard-chrome plated surface so that they operate smoothly with the bearings which use hardened balls or rollers. Running hardened bearings on a soft shaft will prematurely wear the shaft. The hard chrome plating on that rod appears to be damaged and it won't be getting better anytime soon.  [smile]

Now for the bad news, the rod appears to NOT be available as a service part, it's sold as a subassembly that's comprised of both rods pre-assembled into a casting, it's called a swivel arm for $204.82.

Also, note that the LH side of the Kapex uses 2 linear bearings while the RH side uses only 1 linear bearing at $32.40 each. And don't forget to order new seals.

If this Kapex is less than 30 days old, I'd just return it and purchase another. If it's not in stock at your dealer, definitely go shop around.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

If this Kapex is less than 30 days old, I'd just return it and purchase another. If not in stock at your dealer, go shop around.

Since the "servicing" didn't resolve the issue, this is the best route to go if it's still available. No reason for a new owner to spend another $200 plus  labor/time on a new saw. I must confess that as a woodworker, I probably don't have the confidence to fool around with the saw even if the parts are supplied to me free.

 

[JMDUK]

Another new owner of a 120 REB here with the same problems. Rails have a lot of friction sliding back and forward - a very light juddering / gritty feel not a smooth action. They appear to be well greased out of the box. It almost feels like the saw is sitting ever so tilted on the rails and the holes for the rods are lightly catching and releasing and catching and releasing as it moves creating the 'juddery' feel.

By the far the worst problem though is the mitre adjustment. It requires TWO HANDS to force the mitre to pivot. One hand to release the clamp at the front and another to brace your entire body against the saw and hold it steady as you force it into position - and it jerks in big motions. No fine adjustment in one movement like in video demonstrations, it just lurches back and forth until you get it to settle at the right angle.

It is a gigantic pain in the ass to return it so looking for any ideas (over-tightened bolts somewhere? needs re-lubricating?) before I go through the pain of exchanging it.

 

[JMDUK]

The mitre movement is worse than I remembered  [eek] There was an obstruction in the mitre lever! Some polystyrene had worked it's way under the clamp meaning the bottom lever wouldn't disengage all the way [doh].