New Kapex Zero Clearance Insert

[Deansocial]

Last thing I would want to cut would be phenolic, it's so harsh on blades.

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

I hear you, Rick.  In my case, I'm using only two saws for my next job (using 8/4 hardwood) - a track saw and the Kapex.  I plan on using everything available to make the cleanest cuts possible. On the Kapex, a Betterly insert, a homemade zero-clearance fence insert, and a brand new blade. All cuts for this build will be 90 degrees. I just want to minimize/eliminate any tear-out because it's important that this final product be as pristine as is humanly possible. I don't want to waste any time and need to clean up as little as is possible.  Being a one-man operation, with fourteen different design and builds on deck, I can't afford to waste any time.

 

[Samo]

I'm intrigued by the number of woodworkers in this discussion that are frequently replacing their inserts after making bevel cuts. I too made a new insert right after getting my Kapex, and it's even shown in the Supplemental Manual with dimensions for making one. While the factory inserts were a little too wide for my tastes, the need for a truly Zero-Clearance insert on a miter saw is not nearly as important as it is on something like a tablesaw.

On a tablesaw, the teeth are exiting the workpiece on the bottom. So a zero clearance insert will tend to reduce bottom-side tearout. However, on a miter saw, the teeth are entering the workpiece from below. So a zero clearance insert will not impact tearout in the cut. Where zero-clearance is truly needed is at the fence. This is where tearout is most severe with a miter saw.

The primary benefit of having a narrow insert is to reduce the likelihood of thin offcuts from slipping into the gap between the blade and the edge of the insert. However, even after making bevel cuts, this gap is still relatively narrow, and the size of the offcut that can slip past is pretty small.

There is certainly nothing wrong with replacing an insert frequently, but I'm curious how often this is being done under the premise that it would be reducing tearout in the cut. Tearout is occurring at the fence, not the insert.

Yes Rick,

The only other real benefit for me is sighting the cut in full sunlight.  [unsure] 

 

[john5mt]

How long should it take to see this show up?

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

OK, just before I installed my new Betterly insert, I put on a new Tenryu Silencer 72 Toothed blade.  I had zero tear-out testing 1/2 " ply and 3/4 pine. I installed the Betterly and the results were the same.  Beautiful.  I'm not even going to bother with a zero-clearance fence.  Tomorrow, I cross cut the 8/4 red oak. Moral of the story...just by a great blade. Next,  i will try the Tenryu 80 tooth...but,  it's not a Silencer.

 

[barnowl]

... I'm not even going to bother with a zero-clearance fence.  ...

In my opinion, the zero clearance fence is very important.

And so easy to make.

I know...I've made two of them...because I was dumb enough to keep it closed when I did a miter cut.

Since, I adjust the fences per the cut that I'm going to make.

Festool thought of everything when they built the Kapex, as each fence is adjustable and accomodates zero clearance fences beautifully.

 

[ezdrive]

I just received my insert in the mail today.  I purchased the Kapex immediately after became available in the U.S.  I have never had any problems with the unit and I have no remorse in selling an old Dewalt and paying 2x the price for its replacement.  I have had issues with small pieces flying off the blade.  Especially when squaring pen blanks before boring deep holes to turn pens on my lathe.  Yes you can slow down the blade or shut off before the end of the cut, but eliminating the space under the blade for the small cut-off piece to fall is preferred.

Great after market product. Reduces flying pieces and provides a reference point in addition to the laser for cut alignment.     

 

[jimbo51]

In response to Rick, the tear out issue may be because some people, in order to cut wider boards, are cutting on the pull and not the push. I know this is not the proper method, but I would bet it is done very often.

 

[jimbo51]

Oops, the cut width is the same push or pull but if you pull the saw out and come down into the wood, there could be tear out at the beginning of the cut.

So, to cut wide boards, do most people pull cut starting behind the fence or bring the saw out as far as it will go, lower into the wood and push forward?

 

[promark747]

Okay, I have a question.  I own many Festools, but the Kapex is not one of them as I already own a Makita LS1212 and don't see enough reason to switch at this time.  My Makita comes with two adjustable table inserts that are designed to be snugged against the saw plate and then tightened with screws to make a zero clearance kerf slot.  As they wear, they can be re-adjusted, and eventually replaced as a consumable.  I assumed the inserts that come with the Kapex function in the same way, but apparently not as everyone wants to make their own Kapex inserts.  What is the problem with the standard Kapex inserts?  Are they not adjustable to meet the sawplate?

 

[barnowl]

Oops, the cut width is the same push or pull but if you pull the saw out and come down into the wood, there could be tear out at the beginning of the cut.

So, to cut wide boards, do most people pull cut starting behind the fence or bring the saw out as far as it will go, lower into the wood and push forward?

Bring the saw out to full length, bring it up to full speed, lower it into the cut, and push forward.

Pulling it invites the saw to want to climb and lunge at you. Far less control that way.

 

[JonSchuck]

Okay, I have a question.  I own many Festools, but the Kapex is not one of them as I already own a Makita LS1212 and don't see enough reason to switch at this time.  My Makita comes with two adjustable table inserts that are designed to be snugged against the saw plate and then tightened with screws to make a zero clearance kerf slot.  As they wear, they can be re-adjusted, and eventually replaced as a consumable.  I assumed the inserts that come with the Kapex function in the same way, but apparently not as everyone wants to make their own Kapex inserts.  What is the problem with the standard Kapex inserts?  Are they not adjustable to meet the sawplate?

No, they are not adjustable and are far enough apart that a bevel cut does not hit them.  That sounds like a nice feature on your Makita.  Are they easy to move out of the way for a bevel cut and then back to where they were?

EDIT> moved reply out of quote box

 

[promark747]

No, they are not adjustable and are far enough apart that a bevel cut does not hit them.  That sounds like a nice feature on your Makita.  Are they easy to move out of the way for a bevel cut and then back to where they were?

Yes, adjusting is a simple matter of loosening the four screws and sliding the inserts next to the saw plate.  I'm surprised at what I would consider an oversight on Festool's part, as my Makita is relatively ancient.  Biggest downside to the Makita is the horrid dust collection...otherwise, it is very high quality.

[attachthumb=#]

 

[butzla]

I'm a proud new owner of a Kapex.  I agree with others that phenolic is tough on blades.  I made a homemade insert from some cherry.  Rick's supplemental manual was a good starting point but I ultimately just took my own measurements and used the stock inserts to mark the screw holes.

There's so little runout on the saw that it leaves a perfect kerf that I can use to reference the pencil line on my work piece.  (I don't need no stinkin' laser!)

Anyhoo,  I like the inserts so much, I made 11 more out of some scrap miranti I had on hand. 

As an afterthought, I think I might try notching out the left side screw holes so that I don't have to totally remove the torx screws on the saw.  They are a bit of a PITA to remove with a toolie.  This way I can just back the left side out and then slip the insert in and tighten them down.
Cheers!

 

[barnowl]

... Rick's supplemental manual was a good starting point ...Cheers!

Beutiful job, but you really want the zero clearance fences.

I built mine just like Rick detailed.

 

[joshhmodclass]

I just installed one of the Betterly inserts in my Kapex and am very happy with how it performs. I don't know that I would want to switch it out if I was frequently making bevel cuts... it's a little tedious to level and tighten. At least tedious enough to keep me from wanting to do it on a regular basis.

I have a short review and installation video on my site
http://modernclassicscustom.com/2014/01/01/festool-kapex-zero-clearance-insert/

Next step, zero clearance fence as has already been mentioned here

 

[rnt80]

I used to make/use zero clearance fences but found that they substantially reduced the efficiency of the dust collection.  I thought about drilling some holes in the fences to see if that would help but I haven't tried that yet.

 

[Integrity_Construction]

A zero clearance fence is in the future 

I just installed one of the Betterly inserts in my Kapex and am very happy with how it performs. I don't know that I would want to switch it out if I was frequently making bevel cuts... it's a little tedious to level and tighten. At least tedious enough to keep me from wanting to do it on a regular basis.

I have a short review and installation video on my site
http://modernclassicscustom.com/2014/01/01/festool-kapex-zero-clearance-insert/

Next step, zero clearance fence as has already been mentioned here

 

[butzla]

I just installed one of the Betterly inserts in my Kapex and am very happy with how it performs. I don't know that I would want to switch it out if I was frequently making bevel cuts... it's a little tedious to level and tighten. At least tedious enough to keep me from wanting to do it on a regular basis.

I know what you mean about being tedious.  First time I did it was with my toolie and it was tedious as all hell, especially the back screws.  But then I got the idea to use my CXS with the 90 degree chuck and it's an absolute snap.  Love the CXS more and more each day.  It might be my favorite Festool.