New Kapex zero clearance insert?

[jwaite550]

Hi Seth,
It is not the blue betterly and looks just like the colliflower one.  I watched a video and they had it in red for the Dewalt saw.  Sorry I am at work and can't check right now.

 

[semenza]

Hi Seth,
It is not the blue betterly and looks just like the colliflower one.  I watched a video and they had it in red for the Dewalt saw.  Sorry I am at work and can't check right now.

Oh I see now. I had forgotten that I already had the Colliflower on the list when I added it again today. I have updated the list.

Seth

 

[curt boyer]

I spoke with Jack Colliflower this morning about his ZCI's. The Kapex insert should be up on his site very soon. If you want them now you can order them from Woodcraft. You have to remove the screws and the whole plate to change the insert. The main reason I contacted him was to ask for a ZCI for my JSS tablesaw. He sent me some pictures of his prototypes. He is waiting for them to get back from anodizing in three weeks, then they should be available from Woodcraft and his site. My Woodcraft also has his ZCI that fits both of the larger Sawstop tablesaws. They are well made and reasonably priced. I encouraged him to come on the site and introduce himself since there is a gaggle of new Kapex owners.
Cheers
Curt

 

[gdjenkins10]

I finally had some time to play with both Betterley and Colliflower.  A lot of positives for both of them.  The Betterley has a more substantial feel due to the material used.  The Colliflower base is substantial and well designed, the inserts are a little cheap feeling but for $9.99 you get 4 replacements which can take you through a few different bevel cuts.  Both sit flush or a little below the saw bed which was good.  You do have to remove/reapply the screws for both so no advantages.  The Blue Betterley looks great on the saw but does not cover as completely as Colliflower does.  I will try to show pictures of both as well as how the replacement insert fits.
Take a look how Colliflower covers more of the back of the trough.  I would recommend either to replace what comes with the saw.

 

[Cheese]

[member=18547]gdjenkins10[/member]
Is the Colliflower insert flexible enough that you could tilt the Kapex over to say 40 degrees and then remove the insert from the rear of the aluminum frame?

 

[Slartibartfass]

It is by flexible. Moving the saw sideways does not change the issue that the back base is in the way to slide in the insert...

 

[Alan m]

this looks like a nice product.
has anyone invited him to the fog
im sure we would love to hear about them first hand

 

[Cheese]

It is by flexible. Moving the saw sideways does not change the issue that the back base is in the way to slide in the insert...

Unless of coarse the insert is flexible enough to miss the trunion of the Kapex. Think tape, extremely flexible, it just makes a difference of how flexible the insert material is, think plastic or paper towels. 

BTW...thanks for the drill bits.

 

[bkharman]

Let me start by saying I don't have a Kapex, but it seems to me that you could have a flexible insert to slide in and replace as necessary.  I would have to draw it up but it could work.

Cheers. Bryan. 

 

[Cheese]

Let me start by saying I don't have a Kapex, but it seems to me that you could have a flexible insert to slide in and replace as necessary.  I would have to draw it up but it could work.

Cheers. Bryan. 

I agree with you. It all depends upon how flexible the insert is, and that is what I don't know. There is almost 5.5" of distance between the end of the Kapex insert and the front of the structure the trunion is attached to. I can take a 12" flexible Starrett stainless scale (C305R) and place it in the position of the kerf insert and by pivoting the Kapex off to the side, I can easily slide the Starrett scale out-of & in-to the kerf insert position. Just another project I guess [eek]

 

[elfick]

My concern about a replace-from-the-back insert would be that it would need a very strong retention mechanism or the spinning blade will just shoot it out the back.

 

[bkharman]

Just to clarify, my thought was to slide it in and out from the front.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[Slartibartfass]

It is very flexible. U can bend it around intop a horseshoe and no issues. problem is the back base and the dust chute is interfering. The insert is a tight fit and you need to align it perfectly with the tongue and groove to slide it in. A lot of pressure with the bending makes that very challenging..... I tried....

 

[Ed Bray]

Not trying to be adversarial but what exactly is the big issue with removing the screws? It isn't exactly a major feat of engineering.

 

[Slartibartfass]

(a) convenience and (b) I would be concerned about stripping/damaging the screw holes/threads over time....

 

[Slartibartfass]

Actually, now while I am thinking about it if you cut away a small top portion of the tongue and groove part like an 1/8th of an inch that might give you enough bottom support to slide in the bend insert.... I look at that tonight....

 

[elfick]

Not trying to be adversarial but what exactly is the big issue with removing the screws? It isn't exactly a major feat of engineering.

There's no issue. It's just a matter of refining an already good idea.  [smile]

In my mind, if the plate had a T&G access slot on the top at the very front edge which would allow you to slide in the flexible insert, it would be perfect.

 

[butzla]

$40 seems steep for a zero clearance insert.  It's  pointless on the Kapex for tear out because the cut is started from underneath the work piece.  Tear out is eliminated only with a zero clearance on the back fence.  That said, I still like to use one.because it's very easy to line up your cut lines.  No laser necessary.  I made a bunch out of some scrap cherry for next to nothing.

 

[Cheese]

$40 seems steep for a zero clearance insert.  It's  pointless on the Kapex for tear out because the cut is started from underneath the work piece.  Tear out is eliminated only with a zero clearance on the back fence.  That said, I still like to use one.because it's very easy to line up your cut lines.  No laser necessary.  I made a bunch out of some scrap cherry for next to nothing.

I believe the $40 gets you the anodized aluminum frame with 1 plastic insert. But the nice aspect of this is that additional inserts are only $2.50 each in packs of 4.

 

[sancho57]

I just made my own out of some scrap wood I had left over after doing some resawing.  Plus It didn't cost me 40 bucks