New Laguna V10 Bandsaw

I like my Laguna V10. Quality is nice. But initially I was frustrated due the poor quality of cuts with the supplied 3/8” blade. I thought I had made a mistake buying the saw. So I tossed that blade and replaced it with a Timberwolf 1/2” blade. It was like a different saw. I spent considerable time adjusting the table mount, lower guide bearings bracket, and getting it dialed in. I’m now quite happy with it. Like BSWD noted above the smoothness and quietness of it are nice. A lot of nice features for a small saw.

The dust collection is OK. I think there’s a trick to balancing the air flow between the under-the-table dust port and the lower one. I’m playing with adjusting it so the upper port gets more suction.

I would recommend it but be prepared to spend some time getting things adjusted and find a better blade. It’s worth getting the extension table.
 
Absolutely. I'd been using it for the legs of a pair of nightstands and like it much.

Most of my first impression hold well except the under-the-table dust collection attachment. It appeared to be a good design at the first glance but in reality it was not up to the task. But to be honest I didn't expect too much out of it and I believe an easy modification would improve the effectiveness. In summary after spending more hours with the V10 things I like the most are the quietness/smoothness, the power switch, the light and the micro adjustment of the upper/lower guiders.
Thanks for the update
 
For those using the Laguna V10, how does it do when ripping 1x hardwoods? I'm certainly not looking to resaw on it (that's where my 28" Felder comes in handy), rather I'd love to have a portable bandsaw for on-site ripping tasks. Rip quality is of seconday concern since I can always take a couple swipes with a hand plane, I just hate ripping on the table saw.....
 
The saw certainly seems to have plenty of power for what you're suggesting. I think it would do well for ripping, especially if you can find the right blade combination for your task. I'm using the Timber Wolf 1/2" blade for small resaw projects (kiln dried small lumber), and that works fine. But there's probably other folks here that might recommend a better blade for your task. The 1/2" blade is the max size for this saw.
 
Food for thought ...I have a minimal dust collection system ( an old CT=MIDI). My space is a garage first shop second....so space is limited. I realized that I could improve suction on the V:10 if the collector port was simplified to only work with a horizontal table. I designed and printed a few parts (shown in gray) ...not perfect, but a big improvement from what i was able to do. Lower wheel region picture taken after cutting board shown.

IMG_0365.JPGIMG_0370.JPGIMG_0367.JPGIMG_0368.JPG
 
I have zero issues with dust collection on my bandsaw with no debris build up in the lower cabinet. Air can't be extracted from a closed cabinet so any debris that ends up in the lower cabinet will stay there unless provision is made to allow enough air into the cabinet to match the same volume being extracted. My method is to have the lower door blocked open about 10mm and this allows the required air to enter the cabinet and zero debris in the lower cabinet.
 
Looking at that picture, I'm wondering - does this bandsaw have flat (not crowned) wheels? Because my old Italian bandsaw (540mm) has flat wheels and the manual says to hang the front teeth off the front edge like that. Although I would back the blade up a tad on that wheel personally so that the gullet just misses the wheel.
They are flat wheels...the guide bearings do line up just behind the gullets... not a great view showing that due to the angle. The upper drive wheel has the blade centered on the rubber tires....the lower wheel goes where it does and I understand is not as critical.
 
I have zero issues with dust collection on my bandsaw with no debris build up in the lower cabinet. Air can't be extracted from a closed cabinet so any debris that ends up in the lower cabinet will stay there unless provision is made to allow enough air into the cabinet to match the same volume being extracted. My method is to have the lower door blocked open about 10mm and this allows the required air to enter the cabinet and zero debris in the lower cabinet.
Ah....you probably have a much larger dust collection system than i do - I just have the 27mm Festool hose which i split in two....so very limited. The crack around the bottom door and the crack at the top where the blade comes in more than accommodates the flow requirements for my system.
 
They are flat wheels...the guide bearings do line up just behind the gullets... not a great view showing that due to the angle. The upper drive wheel has the blade centered on the rubber tires....the lower wheel goes where it does and I understand is not as critical.
Well, the guides should be adjustable to where-ever you track the blade.
Having the blades centered on the upper wheel, if it's also flat, means the teeth will dig into the tires. If the top tires are crowned, then centered can have the body of the blade supported while the teeth hang out and don't dig in.
And I would think the lower wheel is important, as that's the traction wheel. If the two wheels don't track the blade pretty similarly, then doesn't that mean the wheels aren't in the same plane?
 
Ah....you probably have a much larger dust collection system than i do - I just have the 27mm Festool hose which i split in two....so very limited. The crack around the bottom door and the crack at the top where the blade comes in more than accommodates the flow requirements for my system.
That is the case but I added it to the thread as most users don't understand why the bottom case seems to fill up and blame the dust extractor when it literally runs out of air because the case has no air inlet to supply make up air. It does not cost anything to put a small piece of wood in to hold the door open a small amount, some users have even put screens in the lower door to do the same job but I am lazy and the door stop works for me and is cheap.
 
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